Successes and Failures when Growing Garlic

Successes and Failures of Growing Garlic

Of course this is the most wonderful herb/spice/health giving plant throughout the ages and included in the diets of so many cultures. It is related to the onion, shallot, leek family – alliums and is susceptible to the pests and diseases which affect these plants.

Throughout the ages this has been used as a culinary and medicinal plant and was used to maintain health during the plague, as well as to ward off evil spirits, vampires, the evil eye and various spells.

 Whatever your perspective on growing garlic this is surely one of the most important vegetables / herbs/ spices we can grow in our gardens and allotments.

However, it is important to choose a suitable variety for our ground and our climate.

My preference is for autumn planted garlic cloves but if you are taking that route do think of the varieties you are choosing.

I always plant my garlic bulbs in the autumn – late October onto early November. Of course, you must choose a variety which is suitable for autumn planting. Check on the suggestions from producers and providers and consider what they are suggesting.

It has been said that, like onions, autumn sown garlic will not ‘keep’ into the winter. However, I have always planted my garlic in the autumn and finish off my saved crop in the following spring’s preserves.

Planting Garlic

Of course, you can buy your garlic bulbs from the local supermarket and plant those as your ‘seed’ – and this may be cheaper. However, you are unlikely to know the variety or where they have come from. Are they suitable for your ground and/or your climate. They may well have come from a different part of the world and be totally unsuitable for your conditions and may well come with their own pests and diseases. Really, my advice is to buy good quality, certified stock with advice on flavour, season for planting and suitability to your climate and conditions.

The ground for planting should be well worked to give a good deep tilth [ of course, on land like mine, this is difficult if not impossible as I am growing on fairly heavy clay].

Divide each bulb into its individual cloves without, if possible, removing the outer skin of each clove. The individual cloves should be planted at a depth of 3 – 4 cm [1½inches]. In some places, on much lighter soil, this should be a bit deeper but on heavy clay, like mine I usually plant fairly close to the surface. The bulbs should be 12 - 15cm [5 -6 inches] apart in rows 15cm [ 6 inches] apart – allowing room to hoe between rows without damaging the bulbs. It is important to keep the garlic bed free from weeds through the growing season.

Varieties of Garlic

There are so many varieties available now on the market, it is important to look at the different varieties available where you are living and what the local suppliers and garden centres recommend for your soil type and growing conditions.

Of course, I have found that different varieties work better in each year when the weather and climate can change the growing conditions. Until this season, I had always grown Solent Wight and Purple Wight which had always given me a reasonable crop on one of these varieties. This year, I decided to look for different varieties and, after reading all the flavour, growing and ground peculiarities of each crop, I chose Messidrome, Champion White and Champion Purple – all autumn planting varieties. All of these plants were attacked by ‘leek rust’ late in the season [an endemic disease which will always affect my crops – when it attacks the growth will stop so, the later the attack the better the crop. On an allotment situation, this is impossible to control – without some nasty chemicals. However, away from other allium crops and in an environment where you can control the diseases, I am sure this would not be a problem.]

The leek rust was late this year, probably because of a fairly dry spring. I harvested my garlics during early June and left them on raised grids until they had dried well before I took them home. The Messidrome and the Champion Purple have been spectacular – I could not have bought anything better in any market. Although, the Champion White bulbs were okay the bulbs did not fatten up as I would have liked. Of course, I understand that weather conditions are always relevant and perhaps, next year, the results will be different. I think I will try these three varieties again next year.

Really there are always problems. As I have said in previous blogs, there is a problem with ‘white rot in onions’ on our allotment field. For this reason I had stopped growing onions [with white rots, it is important that no alliums are grown on this ground for 9 years – onions, leeks, garlic, spring onions, shallots, etc].

This year, I did find a few bulbs had been affected by the dreaded ‘white rot’ – disappointing though not unexpected. Next year, I must find a different area to plant them.

Nutritional Value of Garlic

Dietary Fibre – 11%,      Carbohydrate 15%           Protein  17%

Vitamin C    - 71%          Thiamin         18%           Vit B6   84%

Riboflavin    -  9%           Calcium         25%           Iron        13%

Phosphorus   -  21%         Potassium       16%          Zinc        11%

Manganese   - 114%         Selenium        28%

Harvesting and Storing

When or if the garlic plants are affected by leek rust, the plants will stop growing and they can then be harvested. If they have not been affected then the tops of the plants, like onions will cease to grow and the tops of the plants will turn over, indicating that they are no longer growing. Dig up the plants and lay them out on the ground or on a suitable grid to allow the top growth to dry out for several days at least, in warm dry weather or, hang them up in a dry environment – a dry, frost-free shed for example

Weave the garlics into plaits or bunches to allow them to dry out so that they will survive the winter.

Store in a cool dry place over winter – they should last until next year’s crop is ready [assuming you have grown enough!]

Elephant Garlic

This plant, although called a garlic and smells vaguely of garlic is not a garlic. It is more closely related to the leek family – although, of course, they are all of the Allium species.

I have grown Elephant Garlic as I was given one of the huge bulbs a couple of years ago to try. This is expensive to buy and although as easy to grow as garlic, for me it has a disappointingly mild flavour. Perhaps for those who are so keen on the pungent aroma and flavour of a strong garlic, they are very suitable. For me, a good flavoursome garlic is an essential in my kitchen and I always peruse the catalogues for those varieties which have a robust flavour, will grow well on my ground and in my allotment conditions and will store well.

Next Season

Although I have planted 4 bulbs each of three different varieties and the harvest has been good, I think perhaps, when I have given many of these away to members of my family and used many more in my preserves, I should have planted twice as much. But, which varieties?

November on the Allotment - 2014

November on the Allotment 2014 – What should we do this month?

It has been a remarkable year. We have had a long, mostly dry summer and quite a warm, wet autumn. Until yesterday the temperatures have been registering at over 20°C. Now, at the beginning of November it seems it is about to become colder with perhaps some ground frost in certain areas. Though maybe not damaging to hardy or perennial crops we need to think about protection for our more tender crops. This morning, when I was there it was seriously mild, sunny and calm.

As with every year there are successes and failures – my cauliflowers were small, my Brussels sprouts are too small to use and winter squashes and pumpkins are very disappointing. All of these plants need water but, I am extremely reluctant to water outdoors [I have my ploy-tunnel to water regularly and I find that onerous enough. I will make an exception of newly transplanted plants and seed beds but, my plot is large and all water must be carried in buckets or watering cans [no hoses allowed].

The Brussels sprouts may yet come to a good crop, it is still early and the weather is still mild and moist.

Maintenance

v  Keep winter crops – brassicas, leeks, parsnips, etc, clear of weeds and watch out for pests like white fly on the brassicas;

v  If you have not already done so, cut back asparagus ferns as they turn yellow and compost. Remove all debris from the asparagus beds to reduce overwintering asparagus beetles;

v  As the crops in green-houses and poly-tunnels finish – it may be quite late this year, I find that my chillies and even some of my tomatoes are still ripening. Wash the insides of the spaces with detergent and water or, if you prefer with Jeyes Fluid [try to avoid this chemical on the soil but, using this should prevent the recurrence of algae for a couple of years]. You may find that the outside of your greenhouse or polytunnel has been more affected by algae than the outside [especially in a damp/wet year] and cleaning this is ‘a must’ to avoid a reduction in the light available for your crops in the coming year;

v  As you finish using tools, cloches and netting, ensure they are clean and store in a safe and dry environment;

v  If you have netting over fruit cages, it is advisable to remove it before winter – particularly on the ‘roof’ as the weight of winter snow can collapse your cage;

v  Clear away and compost dead rhubarb leaves -

If you have not already done so, in the milder parts of the country this is a good time to rejuvenate mature rhubarb clumps – dig up the crowns and split them. Replant the strongest pieces. Discard any small pieces and plant the best ones. Don’t dig up all of you old rhubarb plants in one year or you will have nothing to harvest the following year – the plants should be allowed to establish for a year before harvesting;

v  Cut back and cover globe artichoke plants before frost becomes severe. It is recommended that they should be covered with straw but, on an exposed site, your straw may blow away – environmesh or plant fleece will make good substitutes but, don’t allow the fabric to rest on the plants. This year, I have felt that my very productive plants over the last number of years are due to be replaced, not least because I think the ground they had occupied – very heavy clay – had become too solid, in  spite of my regular dressings of well-rotted manure and compost and my efforts to keep weds down. Although I have taken root cuttings from my mature plants over the years, I now feel that an introduction of new plants would be beneficial;

v  Put glue bands around the trunks of fruit trees, especially apple trees to capture moths which can damage the crop in the following season.

Preparation and Planning

 vv  As summer/ autumn cropping plants finish their harvest, clear the areas of plants and perennial weeds then, start digging, especially if you have a large plot to dig. On heavy clay soil particularly, the difference between autumn dug and spring dug ground is significant. One of the difficulties of winter cropping vegetables – brassicas [cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, spring cabbages], leeks, parsnips or autumn planted sets eg. onions, garlic is that the ground can’t be dug over until the following spring when the advantages of autumn digging [the rain and frost break down the heavy clumps of earth into a fine workable tilth]. Managing this aspect on heavy soil can be an issue if you wish to have a year round succession of vegetables;

v  Prepare beds for autumn planting perennial crops, rhubarb, fruit trees, bushes and canes;

Most of the large seed houses have now sent out their autumn catalogues. Write to them to request a catalogue or find them on-line.

Sowing and Planting

Ø  Suitable sets for autumn planting onions, shallots and garlic;

Ø  Broad beans – late October or early November is best for autumn sown broad beans. The advantage of autumn sown broad beans is that they can provide a crop early in the year with their early pods which provide a succulent vegetable early in the season and during the ‘hungry time’. Do leave enough to mature into broad beans which will, of course, harvest when other beans are a couple of months away from harvesting. In a ‘kind’ year will over-winter well on the plots though will probably need protection from the harshest weather.  If you are using horticultural fleece or environmesh, ensure it does not lie down on the young plants during the winter as they will rot beneath the covering. Autumn sown broad bean beans are less likely to suffer from blackfly infestation than spring sown broadbeans;

Ø  If you like to have flowers on your allotment – now is a good time to plant a good range of daffodils and tulips to give you a display and cutting flowers from late February until late April. For an early harvest of sweet peas, sow now in pots in greenhouse or poly-tunnel to plant out in early spring.

Ø  Fruit trees, canes and bushes can now be planted into prepared plots

Harvesting

Ø  Late main-crop potatoes can still be harvested and store. I have found that on our allotments, where we don't use major pest killers, that our crops, if left too longin the ground can attract slug and other insect predation. Although commercial growers may harvest into October/November as they will 'treat' the crops with pesticides, etc. It is best for us, on our allotments to harvest fairly early. This year I harvested the last of my crops in October and I believe I have saved about 50% of my crop. I do feel this should have been much greater if I had earlier as I had not used any sort of intervention.

Ø  Brassicas – Brussels Sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, kale and winter cabbage are available now depending on varieties.

Ø  Leeks and parsnips are at their best now.

Ø  Parsley should be good until the winter frosts affect its growth although if it is a mild winter the parsley will continue to grow slowly and give a harvest.

Ø  I am still harvesting chillies in my poly-tunnel and due to the mild weather are still ripening. It has been a bumper year for chillies and peppers. Thin fleshed chillies like Joe’s Long are easy to dry and save until next season or longer. If the chillies you grow are thicker fleshed – like Jalapenos – you may need to freeze them to ensure they will store.

Ø  Although I reduced the number of pepper plants I grew this year after last year’s profuse harvest, I have still had a crop which is way beyond my ability to benefit from and I have put many of them on my garden wall to invite neighbours and passers-by to help themselves – as I do with all my crops

I still have beetroots on my allotment which are still useable and not too woody to use now.

Our native and over-wintering rare birds can look forward to a harsh time over winter so, do think about feeding them and providing water for them during the cold months. Please don’t use bread to feed them especially white bread – this can result in a very debilitating wing growth called ‘Angel Wing’ which affects young birds and prevents them  from flying or developing properly – this is a cruel end to these wonderful birds

It's late October - what should we be doing now on our allotments?

Late October

The clocks have just gone back by an hour in the early hours of this morning. Of course various pets and young children have not yet grasped this issue and continue to waken up and hassle us at their usual time. I do continue to wonder what the purpose of this change of time is all about. I had understood it was originally to help dairy farmers but really – what you gain at one end of the day you lose at the other and in any case, the days get shorter during the winter and longer during the summer. For our young children going to school, they will still be travelling in the dark at one end of the day or the other – am I missing something here?

However, for a couple of days, people – who don’t have children or pets, going to work will enjoy an extra hour of sleeping in, until their body clocks adapt!

Oh gee! I guess I’m just being a bit cynical and annoyed that we have to go through this bi-annual tradition.

We have been forecast ferocious storms for the next couple of days – perhaps to equal those of the hurricanes of 1987 and 1990. Already, I see the sky darkening over in early afternoon of 27^th – you never know, this might be my last Blog!

I had planned to travel to London tomorrow but as I started to book my ticket I was somewhat dismayed by ‘RED’ warnings of travel disruption due to severe weather conditions.

This weather warning has been around for some days now. I have been to my plot and done the majority of the essential autumn digging. Of course, as I look around, I can see other areas I need to dig before winter sets in but, I won’t feel too guilty if I don’t achieve the digging of the extra areas I put on myself.

I think I have cleared most of the dead, dying, already harvested growth for composting. This stuff is, more than, keeping up with the space my compost bins can cope with and each day I have to wait before I can add more.

I have harvested as much as I can from my poly-tunnel – tomatoes, peppers and chillies. There are few tomatoes left to harvest and the plants should be dug up soon and composted. I must also dig over the ground in my tunnel, water well and compost well. Although I have re-cycled the ground regularly since I’ve had my poly-tunnel, I am aware that most of my crops have been of the solanum family – potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, chillies. I have planted some other crops – carrots [which have been brilliant] and over wintered cabbages – also excellent. But, the problem remains. I cannot continue to grow the same family of crops, year-on-year, successfully.

If the forecasted storm brings about the devastation which is expected I might be encourage to re-locate my poly-tunnel [but what a pain!]. The polythene cover has now been there for 4 years so, doesn’t owe me anything. If it survives, I think I will struggle through for another year with careful cleanliness and copious amounts of well-rotted manure and bought-in compost. No doubt, lots of you will disagree and think me a careless gardener!

This year, I have planted my broad beans outdoors fairly early, [7th October Aquadulce Claudia] -  and this year I didn’t chit them beforehand and plant into pots to grow on before planting out. I see that this variety has already put up growing shoots. I also planted, a couple of weeks later, ‘The Sutton’, a dwarf variety which is also suitable for autumn planting. These have not yet appeared. Anticipating another cold winter, I will cover these plants with environmesh [supported well above the young plants]. I have found that horticultural fleece can lie down on the young plants trapping moisture which can rot them. Of course, in a normal winter [what is that any more?] would any of these precautions be necessary?

I have planted several varieties of garlic – I do love my garlics and can use amazing amounts of this wondrous vegetable in cooking – [roasting, stewing, casseroles, pizzas, pasta dishes, preserves - relishes, ketchup, chutneys, etc and, of course, curries! and in preserving.

I see that my Early Purple Wight has already put up early ‘spears’ of growth above ground. I have covered the garlic beds with netting to keep the birds from lifting the emerging bulbs – I believe this is because they think the emerging shoots are worms or other similar prey but, who knows?