Pests Galore - Asparagus Beetle and Black-fly

Pests Galore

It’s not all bad news – the sunshine and warmth today after the heavy rain are certainly making our crops grow as well, of course, as the weeds.

I picked my first broad beans today. They’re not huge yet but, are oh so sweet and tender. The bad news is that the plants are covered in black-fly. Surprisingly enough, it is my autumn sown beans which have been affected worst and I usually think they are fairly safe.

There is a variety of ploys you can try to deter them or prevent too much damage:

-        -  Some people swear by washing them off with soapy water;

-         - Pinch out the tender tops of the plants once the beans have set at the bottoms of the stems [although -I have noticed that the black-fly are crowded much of the way down the stems of some of the plants;

-       -   Sacrifice a couple of plants to keep the flies off the majority;

-        -  Use SB plant Invigorator – sprayed on – it is organic, a foliar feed really but also seems to keep bugs at bay [ this will be my choice ];

-        -  PY bug Killer – also organic and very effective.

With both of the last two you can pick the same day.

I have finished harvesting my asparagus now although I could get another couple of pickings from the plants. I will now allow the ferns to develop to feed the roots for next year’s crops. As my ferns usually grow quite high – a metre plus – I find it necessary to stake or put up support for the ferns otherwise they will blow over in a windy summer / autumn and break off at the roots causing damage to the roots.

I have noticed that there are loads of asparagus beetles on my plants [ more than I have seen for some years and it is still early,] with rows of little black eggs up the stems.

Do check your plants for these pests as their larvae can cause an amazing amount of damage to the ferns which will destroy your crops for next year.

You can doubtless, spray these little nasties with insecticide but I have found the most effective way is to check your plants each day you are at your plot and remove the beetles [put your hand under the beetles you are going to remove, they will see you coming and drop off or move round the plant! Really! Squash them. I always wear nitrile gloves for this job. If you can see the tiny eggs remove them also. As they hatch the larvae are very squashy, slimy little greenish brown worm-like creatures with large heads. I also squash them.

Asparagus beetle is not likely to be a problem if you are growing far away from anyone else who grows this crop but, on allotments it is definitely one of those pests you have to deal with.

On the Allotment in April

April on the allotment

- it really is springtime now, or it ought to be but, who is to know in these times of changing climate. We must adapt accordingly. I do realise that you may not be from the UK or even the Northern Hemisphere and so my thoughts may not be appropriate. This year, March has been particularly miserable but now in April it is looking a little kinder. I am hopeful that the blue-tits really are going to nest in my nest box. I can see through the camera that they are now lining the nest with fur and feathers.

We sometimes think of springtime as a season of bounty - new lambs and calves in the fields and lots of planting being done but, in fact March and particularly April are really the 'lean' season. Unless we have had a kind winter and have planned our crops very carefully, our overwintering crops have finished or are close to finishing and our stored fruit and vegetables have either finished or deteriorated beyond use and little is ready on the allotment - back to the supermarket!  I have to admit that I do get very tired of purple sprouting broccoli and even asparagus in this season. Friends and neighbours think I'm amazing generous to give bunches of asparagus away but, really I just can't face another meal of asparagus and broccoli. One of my asparagus beds starts producing in March but, I was given the plants so, don't know which variety they are. They are all female and many sites I read that female plants are not so highly thought of. However, I find that these plants give me very superior spears - fat and flavoursome. 

Maintenance around the plot – what we need to do to keep established plants healthy and pest free;

·         keep the plot tidy;

·        cut grass on paths around your plot, unless the weather is very cold the grass will now be growing vigorously and will need to be cut regularly;

·         weeding - like the grass, those weeds which love your soil will now be taking hold and weeding will be a regular task, especially around seed beds and on newly planted beds;

·         tidy fruit cages - many of the fruit bushes will have flower buds on, make sure they are weeded or that the grass and weeds are kept under control.. The same work will be needed around perennial plants and fruit trees and bushes;

·         compost old plants or those which have finished producing;on many allotment sites, including mine, bonfires are no longer allowed.

Preparation and planning for the coming season –

·         looking after perennial plants – probably too late for pruning, depending on where you are in the country, ensure all perennial weeds are cleared from around them, feed and manure as necessary;

•  re-digging beds ready for planting out;
•  dig in compost and/or well rotted manure;
•  preparing seed beds;
•  top–up raised beds with fresh compost or soil.

Sowing and planting what can be sown or planted now?

in a propagator – aubergines, courgettes, cucumbers, peppers and chillies, pumpkin and squash, tomatoes.  Herbs - basil;

·         under cover [in green house, poly-tunnel, cold frame or cloche] – brassicas (Brussels sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, winter cauliflower), celery, celeriac, lettuce, peppers and chillies, pumpkin and squash, rocket, runner beans, spring onions. Herbs – basil, chervil, chives, parsley rosemary, savoury, thyme,
outdoors – [do wait a couple of weeks for the ground to be less cold] – broad beans, beetroot, brassicas [broccoli, Brussels sprouts, summer cabbage, winter cabbage], carrots, summer cauliflower, garlic, kale, leeks, lettuce, onions, shallots, parsnips, potatoes, early peas, radish, rocket, spinach and Swiss chard, spring onions, turnips.
As bare root plants can only be safely transplanted when they are dormant, it is now probably too late in the season except in colder parts of the country where the plants have not yet started growing. If you are buying plants in pots to plant out on your allotment or in your garden, while they can be transplanted at any time, it is best to wait until the ground is less cold.

Harvesting –

• Fresh from the plot, greenhouse or poly-tunnel – early varieties of asparagus, spinach, some types of broccoli, spring cabbage/spring greens, Swiss chard, winter cabbage, winter cauliflower, kale, early lettuce, salad onions, radishes, sorrel, rhubarb, oregano, rosemary, bay-leaves and last year’s parsley plants should be growing strongly now before they start to run-to-seed.
• Autumn sown broad beans may well have now set their pods during late March or early April can be harvested as young pods and cooked and eaten like Fine Beans [albeit with a slightly ‘hairier’ texture – an excellent source of a fresh, healthy vegetable in the lean period but, do leave enough to grow on to maturity.

November on the Allotment - 2014

November on the Allotment 2014 – What should we do this month?

It has been a remarkable year. We have had a long, mostly dry summer and quite a warm, wet autumn. Until yesterday the temperatures have been registering at over 20°C. Now, at the beginning of November it seems it is about to become colder with perhaps some ground frost in certain areas. Though maybe not damaging to hardy or perennial crops we need to think about protection for our more tender crops. This morning, when I was there it was seriously mild, sunny and calm.

As with every year there are successes and failures – my cauliflowers were small, my Brussels sprouts are too small to use and winter squashes and pumpkins are very disappointing. All of these plants need water but, I am extremely reluctant to water outdoors [I have my ploy-tunnel to water regularly and I find that onerous enough. I will make an exception of newly transplanted plants and seed beds but, my plot is large and all water must be carried in buckets or watering cans [no hoses allowed].

The Brussels sprouts may yet come to a good crop, it is still early and the weather is still mild and moist.

Maintenance

v  Keep winter crops – brassicas, leeks, parsnips, etc, clear of weeds and watch out for pests like white fly on the brassicas;

v  If you have not already done so, cut back asparagus ferns as they turn yellow and compost. Remove all debris from the asparagus beds to reduce overwintering asparagus beetles;

v  As the crops in green-houses and poly-tunnels finish – it may be quite late this year, I find that my chillies and even some of my tomatoes are still ripening. Wash the insides of the spaces with detergent and water or, if you prefer with Jeyes Fluid [try to avoid this chemical on the soil but, using this should prevent the recurrence of algae for a couple of years]. You may find that the outside of your greenhouse or polytunnel has been more affected by algae than the outside [especially in a damp/wet year] and cleaning this is ‘a must’ to avoid a reduction in the light available for your crops in the coming year;

v  As you finish using tools, cloches and netting, ensure they are clean and store in a safe and dry environment;

v  If you have netting over fruit cages, it is advisable to remove it before winter – particularly on the ‘roof’ as the weight of winter snow can collapse your cage;

v  Clear away and compost dead rhubarb leaves -

If you have not already done so, in the milder parts of the country this is a good time to rejuvenate mature rhubarb clumps – dig up the crowns and split them. Replant the strongest pieces. Discard any small pieces and plant the best ones. Don’t dig up all of you old rhubarb plants in one year or you will have nothing to harvest the following year – the plants should be allowed to establish for a year before harvesting;

v  Cut back and cover globe artichoke plants before frost becomes severe. It is recommended that they should be covered with straw but, on an exposed site, your straw may blow away – environmesh or plant fleece will make good substitutes but, don’t allow the fabric to rest on the plants. This year, I have felt that my very productive plants over the last number of years are due to be replaced, not least because I think the ground they had occupied – very heavy clay – had become too solid, in  spite of my regular dressings of well-rotted manure and compost and my efforts to keep weds down. Although I have taken root cuttings from my mature plants over the years, I now feel that an introduction of new plants would be beneficial;

v  Put glue bands around the trunks of fruit trees, especially apple trees to capture moths which can damage the crop in the following season.

Preparation and Planning

 vv  As summer/ autumn cropping plants finish their harvest, clear the areas of plants and perennial weeds then, start digging, especially if you have a large plot to dig. On heavy clay soil particularly, the difference between autumn dug and spring dug ground is significant. One of the difficulties of winter cropping vegetables – brassicas [cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, spring cabbages], leeks, parsnips or autumn planted sets eg. onions, garlic is that the ground can’t be dug over until the following spring when the advantages of autumn digging [the rain and frost break down the heavy clumps of earth into a fine workable tilth]. Managing this aspect on heavy soil can be an issue if you wish to have a year round succession of vegetables;

v  Prepare beds for autumn planting perennial crops, rhubarb, fruit trees, bushes and canes;

Most of the large seed houses have now sent out their autumn catalogues. Write to them to request a catalogue or find them on-line.

Sowing and Planting

Ø  Suitable sets for autumn planting onions, shallots and garlic;

Ø  Broad beans – late October or early November is best for autumn sown broad beans. The advantage of autumn sown broad beans is that they can provide a crop early in the year with their early pods which provide a succulent vegetable early in the season and during the ‘hungry time’. Do leave enough to mature into broad beans which will, of course, harvest when other beans are a couple of months away from harvesting. In a ‘kind’ year will over-winter well on the plots though will probably need protection from the harshest weather.  If you are using horticultural fleece or environmesh, ensure it does not lie down on the young plants during the winter as they will rot beneath the covering. Autumn sown broad bean beans are less likely to suffer from blackfly infestation than spring sown broadbeans;

Ø  If you like to have flowers on your allotment – now is a good time to plant a good range of daffodils and tulips to give you a display and cutting flowers from late February until late April. For an early harvest of sweet peas, sow now in pots in greenhouse or poly-tunnel to plant out in early spring.

Ø  Fruit trees, canes and bushes can now be planted into prepared plots

Harvesting

Ø  Late main-crop potatoes can still be harvested and store. I have found that on our allotments, where we don't use major pest killers, that our crops, if left too longin the ground can attract slug and other insect predation. Although commercial growers may harvest into October/November as they will 'treat' the crops with pesticides, etc. It is best for us, on our allotments to harvest fairly early. This year I harvested the last of my crops in October and I believe I have saved about 50% of my crop. I do feel this should have been much greater if I had earlier as I had not used any sort of intervention.

Ø  Brassicas – Brussels Sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, kale and winter cabbage are available now depending on varieties.

Ø  Leeks and parsnips are at their best now.

Ø  Parsley should be good until the winter frosts affect its growth although if it is a mild winter the parsley will continue to grow slowly and give a harvest.

Ø  I am still harvesting chillies in my poly-tunnel and due to the mild weather are still ripening. It has been a bumper year for chillies and peppers. Thin fleshed chillies like Joe’s Long are easy to dry and save until next season or longer. If the chillies you grow are thicker fleshed – like Jalapenos – you may need to freeze them to ensure they will store.

Ø  Although I reduced the number of pepper plants I grew this year after last year’s profuse harvest, I have still had a crop which is way beyond my ability to benefit from and I have put many of them on my garden wall to invite neighbours and passers-by to help themselves – as I do with all my crops

I still have beetroots on my allotment which are still useable and not too woody to use now.

Our native and over-wintering rare birds can look forward to a harsh time over winter so, do think about feeding them and providing water for them during the cold months. Please don’t use bread to feed them especially white bread – this can result in a very debilitating wing growth called ‘Angel Wing’ which affects young birds and prevents them  from flying or developing properly – this is a cruel end to these wonderful birds