November
on the Allotment 2014 – What should we do this month?
It has been a remarkable year. We have had a long,
mostly dry summer and quite a warm, wet autumn. Until yesterday the temperatures have
been registering at over 20°C. Now, at the beginning of November it seems it is
about to become colder with perhaps some ground frost in certain areas. Though
maybe not damaging to hardy or perennial crops we need to think about
protection for our more tender crops. This morning, when I was there it was
seriously mild, sunny and calm.
As with every year there are successes and failures –
my cauliflowers were small, my Brussels sprouts are too small to use and winter
squashes and pumpkins are very disappointing. All of these plants need water
but, I am extremely reluctant to water outdoors [I have my ploy-tunnel to water
regularly and I find that onerous enough. I will make an exception of newly transplanted
plants and seed beds but, my plot is large and all water must be carried in
buckets or watering cans [no hoses allowed].
The Brussels sprouts may yet come to a good crop, it
is still early and the weather is still mild and moist.
Maintenance
v Keep
winter crops – brassicas, leeks, parsnips, etc, clear of weeds and watch out
for pests like white fly on the brassicas;
v If
you have not already done so, cut back asparagus ferns as they turn yellow and
compost. Remove all debris from the asparagus beds to reduce overwintering
asparagus beetles;
v As
the crops in green-houses and poly-tunnels finish – it may be quite late this
year, I find that my chillies and even some of my tomatoes are still ripening.
Wash the insides of the spaces with detergent and water or, if you prefer with
Jeyes Fluid [try to avoid this chemical on the soil but, using this should
prevent the recurrence of algae for a couple of years]. You may find that the
outside of your greenhouse or polytunnel has been more affected by algae than
the outside [especially in a damp/wet year] and cleaning this is ‘a must’ to
avoid a reduction in the light available for your crops in the coming year;
v As
you finish using tools, cloches and netting, ensure they are clean and store in
a safe and dry environment;
v If
you have netting over fruit cages, it is advisable to remove it before winter –
particularly on the ‘roof’ as the weight of winter snow can collapse your cage;
v Clear
away and compost dead rhubarb leaves -
If you have not already done so, in
the milder parts of the country this is a good time to rejuvenate mature
rhubarb clumps – dig up the crowns and split them. Replant the strongest pieces.
Discard any small pieces and plant the best ones. Don’t dig up all of you old
rhubarb plants in one year or you will have nothing to harvest the following
year – the plants should be allowed to establish for a year before harvesting;
v Cut
back and cover globe artichoke plants before frost becomes severe. It is
recommended that they should be covered with straw but, on an exposed site,
your straw may blow away – environmesh or plant fleece will make good
substitutes but, don’t allow the fabric to rest on the plants. This year, I
have felt that my very productive plants over the last number of years are due
to be replaced, not least because I think the ground they had occupied – very heavy
clay – had become too solid, in spite of
my regular dressings of well-rotted manure and compost and my efforts to keep
weds down. Although I have taken root cuttings from my mature plants over the
years, I now feel that an introduction of new plants would be beneficial;
v Put
glue bands around the trunks of fruit trees, especially apple trees to capture
moths which can damage the crop in the following season.
Preparation and Planning
vv As
summer/ autumn cropping plants finish their harvest, clear the areas of plants
and perennial weeds then, start digging, especially if you have a large plot to
dig. On heavy clay soil particularly, the difference between autumn dug and
spring dug ground is significant. One of the difficulties of winter cropping
vegetables – brassicas [cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, spring cabbages], leeks,
parsnips or autumn planted sets eg. onions, garlic is that the ground can’t be
dug over until the following spring when the advantages of autumn digging [the
rain and frost break down the heavy clumps of earth into a fine workable
tilth]. Managing this aspect on heavy soil can be an issue if you wish to have
a year round succession of vegetables;
v Prepare
beds for autumn planting perennial crops, rhubarb, fruit trees, bushes and
canes;
Most of the large seed houses have
now sent out their autumn catalogues. Write to them to request a catalogue or
find them on-line.
Sowing and Planting
Ø Suitable
sets for autumn planting onions, shallots and garlic;
Ø Broad
beans – late October or early November is best for autumn sown broad beans. The
advantage of autumn sown broad beans is that they can provide a crop early in
the year with their early pods which provide a succulent vegetable early in the
season and during the ‘hungry time’. Do leave enough to mature into broad beans
which will, of course, harvest when other beans are a couple of months away
from harvesting. In a ‘kind’ year will over-winter well on the plots though
will probably need protection from the harshest weather. If you are using horticultural fleece or
environmesh, ensure it does not lie down on the young plants during the winter
as they will rot beneath the covering. Autumn sown broad bean beans are less
likely to suffer from blackfly infestation than spring sown broadbeans;
Ø If
you like to have flowers on your allotment – now is a good time to plant a good
range of daffodils and tulips to give you a display and cutting flowers from
late February until late April. For an early harvest of sweet peas, sow now in
pots in greenhouse or poly-tunnel to plant out in early spring.
Ø Fruit
trees, canes and bushes can now be planted into prepared plots
Harvesting
Ø Late
main-crop potatoes can still be harvested and store. I have found that on our allotments, where we don't use major pest killers, that our crops, if left too longin the ground can attract slug and other insect predation. Although commercial growers may harvest into October/November as they will 'treat' the crops with pesticides, etc. It is best for us, on our allotments to harvest fairly early. This year I harvested the last of my crops in October and I believe I have saved about 50% of my crop. I do feel this should have been much greater if I had earlier as I had not used any sort of intervention.
Ø Brassicas
– Brussels Sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, kale and winter cabbage are available now depending on varieties.
Ø Leeks
and parsnips are at their best now.
Ø Parsley
should be good until the winter frosts affect its growth although if it is a
mild winter the parsley will continue to grow slowly and give a harvest.
Ø I
am still harvesting chillies in my poly-tunnel and due to the mild weather are
still ripening. It has been a bumper year for chillies and peppers. Thin
fleshed chillies like Joe’s Long are easy to dry and save until next season or
longer. If the chillies you grow are thicker fleshed – like Jalapenos – you may
need to freeze them to ensure they will store.
Ø Although
I reduced the number of pepper plants I grew this year after last year’s profuse
harvest, I have still had a crop which is way beyond my ability to benefit from
and I have put many of them on my garden wall to invite neighbours and
passers-by to help themselves – as I do with all my crops
I still have beetroots on my allotment which are still useable and not too woody to use now.
Our native and over-wintering rare birds can look
forward to a harsh time over winter so, do think about feeding them and
providing water for them during the cold months. Please don’t use bread to feed
them especially white bread – this can result in a very debilitating wing
growth called ‘Angel Wing’ which affects young birds and prevents them from flying or developing properly – this is a
cruel end to these wonderful birds
