Although it is really cold and frosty in the early mornings, it is just glorious by 11.00am. You could almost say it is warm, no gloves nor jacket necessary. Isn't it amazing for mid January and, expected to last for a few more days?
I'm sure the birds are already mating and beginning to build their nests, the pairs of robins - at each end of my plots are there to greet me each day looking for the food I bring them. They run around under my feet in expectation and land on the food stations I have set up on top of my compost bins and picnic table, as soon as I put out their food. They are so close I could reach out and touch them though, of course, I know they would never let me. But, each day, it thrills me to watch them. But, I care about birds. When I arrived at my plot today, it was clear that a bird had been in trouble around my netting for my winter brassicas - lots of white feathers though, not a whole birds worth, and no sign of a bird carcasse. We have a resident black and white cat, foxes, rats and birds of prey. Who was the perpitrator? Pete our allotments deputy chair arrived while I was still there and was able to tell me that the trapped bird - a pigeon - had escaped, with his support. The black and white cat had not been interested - obviously well fed on something else. That said, I have several qualities of netting for my crops. I don't think birds are stupid and are well able to see the nets we put over our crops but, the fine cheaper netting catches their feet, making them 'sitting targets' for predators. This year I will replace all fine netting with more 'bird friendly' stuff.
I have almost reached the end of the sacks of potatoes I had stored and brought home. No problem, I thought. I still have a sack of potatoes in my allotment shed. That will see me through for another month ( I do love my potatoes). I was horrified to discover that they were soft and half rotten - the whole bag - obviously the shed had not protected them from the December very low temperatures... they were 'frosted'. A pity and a lesson learned. Next year I will take them home for storing before the winter low temperatures kick in.
Last summer's crops of onions were good and, with my friend Philip, we planted a lot, particularly red onions. I have been pleased and not a little surprised by how well they have stored - even in my cold, damp shed. The damp does not seem to have affected them and, once home, they have dried out successfully, Still a couple of months supplies to go, which might take me... almost to the new seasons onions.
I had a mini bonfire at my plot today. There is some discussion about whether we should burn our rubbish (always checking in bonfires in case wildlife has got in there - eg hedgehogs) or finding a corner to let it rot down. I'm afraid I have opted for the bonfire each winter. For me it gets rid of old rotting wood which would otherwise harbour slugs and woodlice - and it destroys diseases in my fruit crops - eg bigbud mite in blackcurrants. I know I haven't got rid of it, it's endemic on an allotment site where it already exists but, I must do my best. And, let's not get away from it, a good bonfire makes us feel good. There is always the extra potash to dig into the soil.
Thursday 20 January 2011
Monday 17 January 2011
Recipe for salsify or scorzonera
Salsify or Scorzonera with cheese sauce
Scorzonera and salsify are very similar root vegetables. Both are considered a winter vegetable, best from November ‘til February. They are deep rooted 25 to 40 cm (12 inches or more).The roots are quite brittle, easily broken and will discolour if the root is broken. They are often called the vegetable oyster as the flavour is delicate (though not at all fishy!) and it is important to not ‘drown’ the flavour with stronger ones.
The skin is quite tough and it is helpful to get rid of this beforehand – scald, steam or lightly boil the roots for a few minutes, then peel the tough skin from the roots. This should come off easily but, if not, use a peeler or sharp knife. Apart from cooking, you can stop the roots from discolouring by sprinkling with something acidic (lemon juice or a mild vinegar – eg tarragon, cider)
When the skins have been removed, cut the roots into lengths approx. 8 – 10 cm and place in a shallow oven-proof dish.
Make a cheese sauce:
30gm margarine ( 1oz) ¼ litre milk ( ½ pint ) or veg stock
25 gm ( 1 oz) breadcrumbs- brown or white Salt and pepper – to taste
30gm plain flour ( 1oz)
60gm ( 30gm ) cheese – cheddar is good though a more flavoursome one, like Stilton or other blue cheese is excellent – but don’t overpower the flavour of the vegetable
Method
- Melt the margarine in a saucepan and add the seasoning and flour.
- Cook gently until the flour is cooked out – do NOT allow it to ‘catch’ or to brown.
- Add the liquid gently – little by little – stirring frequently until all the liquid has been added.
- Bring to the boil briefly then turn off the heat and add the cheese, allowing it to melt into the sauce.
- Pour the sauce over the salsify (or scorzonera) and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. If you wish, some extra grated cheese can be added to the breadcrumbs.
- Bake in a hot oven 180c for 15mins or grill until golden.
- Serve as a starter or side dish. Yummy!
Thursday 13 January 2011
Spring sowing Broad Beans
I love broad beans, especially early in the year when they are tender... I do go off them a bit when the waxy skins are tough and you have to skin them.
Actually they are totally excellent when picked and cooked young ( before the beans have developed), Like young runner beans, just wash whole, slice and boil or steam for 5 - 7 minutes. Toss in butter and crushed black pepper, yummy! If you only have a few plants you might consider this wasteful but I grow lots.
Spring planted broad beans - what can I say? This year I'm trying a new variety - Danko ( new for me and new for Dobies) early with small beans. I'm hoping the early variety will miss the ubiquitous blackfly.
I really prefer autumn sown broad beans. It really doesn't seem to matter which producer/variety, as long as it is suitable for autumn sowing.
Until a couple of years ago I had disappointing results with germination ( of all varieties of beans), not greater than 25 to 30%, which is dismal, to say the least. I was listening to an Alan Titchmarsh programme ( can't remember which one). The question was asked from someone who was having difficulty germinating beans and, as I was having the same problem, I perked up my ears. He suggested ( almost as a casual, throwaway remark that we should not attempt to sow them straight into the ground - we should chit them on wet paper first, then plant into pots. Plant on when the young plants have developed).
Okay, I thought, this is worth a try ( well! what I was doing was not working). I did as advised. About 90% of the bean seed sprouted and I planted them up in small pots. I then planted them out in November and covered with fleece. I had 90%+ success with the plants, early broad beans and absolutely NO black fly.
That said, I'll still have-a-go with the spring sowing, if only to extend the season.
I'll come back to this subject later when chitting/sprouting summer beans
Actually they are totally excellent when picked and cooked young ( before the beans have developed), Like young runner beans, just wash whole, slice and boil or steam for 5 - 7 minutes. Toss in butter and crushed black pepper, yummy! If you only have a few plants you might consider this wasteful but I grow lots.
Spring planted broad beans - what can I say? This year I'm trying a new variety - Danko ( new for me and new for Dobies) early with small beans. I'm hoping the early variety will miss the ubiquitous blackfly.
I really prefer autumn sown broad beans. It really doesn't seem to matter which producer/variety, as long as it is suitable for autumn sowing.
Until a couple of years ago I had disappointing results with germination ( of all varieties of beans), not greater than 25 to 30%, which is dismal, to say the least. I was listening to an Alan Titchmarsh programme ( can't remember which one). The question was asked from someone who was having difficulty germinating beans and, as I was having the same problem, I perked up my ears. He suggested ( almost as a casual, throwaway remark that we should not attempt to sow them straight into the ground - we should chit them on wet paper first, then plant into pots. Plant on when the young plants have developed).
Okay, I thought, this is worth a try ( well! what I was doing was not working). I did as advised. About 90% of the bean seed sprouted and I planted them up in small pots. I then planted them out in November and covered with fleece. I had 90%+ success with the plants, early broad beans and absolutely NO black fly.
That said, I'll still have-a-go with the spring sowing, if only to extend the season.
I'll come back to this subject later when chitting/sprouting summer beans
Saturday 8 January 2011
chitting seed potatoes
Yippee! Some of my seed potatoes have just arrived - my first earlies (Accent) and my salad potatoes (Charlotte). I was getting particularly anxious about the first earlies as I need to have them chitted by mid-February so that I can plant a couple of short rows in my polytunnel. Those I'm planting outdoors can wait until March. I like floury rather than waxy potatoes ( yes I know you must take more care with cooking them but, I prefer the texture). Accent, is on the floury side for an early potato and is excellent for roasting, chipping and boiling. If you have planted enough, they do last well into the main season - and have excellent flavour. Charlottes have a wonderful flavour and more waxy so make a good salad potato or are just superb boiled with spring lamb and mint sauce - yummy!
For the uninitiated - 'chitting' is getting the seeds to sprout before planting. It can be done with lots of different seeds - more later - but, although it is not essential, it is advisable to ensure good sturdy plants. If you decide to chit, the conditions are important - you need cool light conditions - frost free. You will have noticed that all potatoes start to sprout at this time of year, even those you buy from the shops for eating which can be quite annoying as the potatoes also start to go soft. However, for growing we want particular types of sprouts - not those long white stringy things in your veg cupboard, but short sturdy sprouts, preferably with more than a hint of green or purplish green. If you like larger potatoes you can knock off some of the sprouts which will give you a smaller crop of bigger potatoes. A couple of years ago, my potatoes, already above ground, were hit with a late frost. Naturally the shoots died back ( they are frost tender). But, the plants didn't die. I still got an excellent crop of large potatoes from new shoots. I use egg boxes for chitting - set the potatoes with the 'eyes' up ( these can be hard to see, but look for the tiny 'buds' of new growth). Obviously this is not done by most commercial growers, much too time consuming/labour intensive. On the allotment or in the garden, we only have a small amount of space which we want to be as productive as possible.
More later - still all my main crops to come.
I noticed, this morning that the first of my sweet peas - sown on 1st January, in pots in my propagator - has appeared above the soil. :0)
For the uninitiated - 'chitting' is getting the seeds to sprout before planting. It can be done with lots of different seeds - more later - but, although it is not essential, it is advisable to ensure good sturdy plants. If you decide to chit, the conditions are important - you need cool light conditions - frost free. You will have noticed that all potatoes start to sprout at this time of year, even those you buy from the shops for eating which can be quite annoying as the potatoes also start to go soft. However, for growing we want particular types of sprouts - not those long white stringy things in your veg cupboard, but short sturdy sprouts, preferably with more than a hint of green or purplish green. If you like larger potatoes you can knock off some of the sprouts which will give you a smaller crop of bigger potatoes. A couple of years ago, my potatoes, already above ground, were hit with a late frost. Naturally the shoots died back ( they are frost tender). But, the plants didn't die. I still got an excellent crop of large potatoes from new shoots. I use egg boxes for chitting - set the potatoes with the 'eyes' up ( these can be hard to see, but look for the tiny 'buds' of new growth). Obviously this is not done by most commercial growers, much too time consuming/labour intensive. On the allotment or in the garden, we only have a small amount of space which we want to be as productive as possible.
More later - still all my main crops to come.
I noticed, this morning that the first of my sweet peas - sown on 1st January, in pots in my propagator - has appeared above the soil. :0)
Friday 7 January 2011
salsify, scorzonera
These, easy to grow winter vegetables are little known in the UK as a winter vegetable. They are members of the sunflower family, like Jerusalem Artichokes ( I'm still waiting to be convinced of their plus side!). Both Salsify and Scorzonera have a similar, though slightly firmer texture than Jerusalem Artichoke, but have a much better flavour. Described as 'vegetable oyster', the flavour is quite delicate so, don't overpower them with strong herbs, etc.
They have a tough skin which is easily removed by steaming or boiling gently for 10 minutes or so ( please don't over cook them), then peel the skins off easily. They can be peeled raw but, the flesh will discolour easily so you will need to cover with lemon juice or put in water.
Excellent nutritional value - high in potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and iron, also vitamins A,B,C and D. Importantly they contain Inulin, a natural insulin so, are good for diabetics.
My favourite dish with these excellent vegetables is to steam gently, as above, remove the skins and cut into 10 -12cm lengths ( or so). Lay in a casserole dish and cover with cheese sauce. Sprinkle with fine breadcrumbs or grated cheese and bake in medium to hot oven ( 180c) for 15 mins. Great as a starter or a side dish.
I sowed 2 rows of each last year and have had a excellent crop. Although I didn't sow all the seed I had, it is recommended that you buy new seed each year. Apparently, as they are a perennial, you can propagate new plants from the growing tops but, I think I will find it easier to grow new plants from seed. They have very long, brittle roots ( rather like a parsnip, though finer) so take care when digging them up
They have a tough skin which is easily removed by steaming or boiling gently for 10 minutes or so ( please don't over cook them), then peel the skins off easily. They can be peeled raw but, the flesh will discolour easily so you will need to cover with lemon juice or put in water.
Excellent nutritional value - high in potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and iron, also vitamins A,B,C and D. Importantly they contain Inulin, a natural insulin so, are good for diabetics.
My favourite dish with these excellent vegetables is to steam gently, as above, remove the skins and cut into 10 -12cm lengths ( or so). Lay in a casserole dish and cover with cheese sauce. Sprinkle with fine breadcrumbs or grated cheese and bake in medium to hot oven ( 180c) for 15 mins. Great as a starter or a side dish.
I sowed 2 rows of each last year and have had a excellent crop. Although I didn't sow all the seed I had, it is recommended that you buy new seed each year. Apparently, as they are a perennial, you can propagate new plants from the growing tops but, I think I will find it easier to grow new plants from seed. They have very long, brittle roots ( rather like a parsnip, though finer) so take care when digging them up
Thursday 6 January 2011
winter vegetables
I've spent the morning at my allotment. It's cold and damp, a little drizzle but, at least it's not frozen. It's good to feed the birds and check for early signs of new growth and, yes! I could see my bulbs just beginning to appear above the deep layer of manure I put on the bed in the autumn. This is my 'no-dig' bed, an area of about 4 metres by 4 metres. When the bulbs have almost died down I plant out my squashes and pumpkins between the bulbs. So far, it has been a good arrangement. I have cut flowers for my home and the ground is always being used.
As the ground and the plants are not frozen, at the moment, it is a good opportunity to pick fresh vegetables - today, brussels sprouts and leeks, probably my winter favourites, well, along with parsnips ( my carrots have long finished so, I have to buy them. They don't count. I haven't yet worked out how to grow enough good carrots to have to store them). This year I have lots of leeks as I did successional planting - the first before the end of May and the second bed about 2 months later. I'm still only half way through harvesting the first bed and not a leek moth in sight. I'd never come across leek moth before last year and, while they didn't destroy the crop, they were slightly discouraging. This time I covered the crop with environmesh - good move.
Leeks are such a versatile vegetable,excellent in soups, casseroles or served with a cheese sauce, yummy! They are also nutritionally excellent - low in fat, sodium ( salt) and cholestrol but, high in essential vitamins and minerals.
The sprouts have been good this winter though, of course, are not so good frozen. I've had to buy them for a week or so. I have discovered that Maximus F1 and Bedford work particularly well on my ground, providing sprouts from early November (or even a bit earlier) until late February - if I've planted enough. This year I'm also experimenting with purple sprouts ( I can't say what variety as the young plants were given to me by my daughter). I'm not getting anything from them yet as, apparently, they crop much later into spring.
I could have dug up some parsnips as well. They have been good and very sweet but, they are very deep rooted which means me sinking deep into the mud to dig them out. I definitely have to be in the mood for that. ( I plant Tender and True - a good basic parsnip with excellent flavour and resistance to disease. They are also one of the cheaper varieties.)
I might get back to the plot again before the snow returns to harvest more of the same and some others. More later
As the ground and the plants are not frozen, at the moment, it is a good opportunity to pick fresh vegetables - today, brussels sprouts and leeks, probably my winter favourites, well, along with parsnips ( my carrots have long finished so, I have to buy them. They don't count. I haven't yet worked out how to grow enough good carrots to have to store them). This year I have lots of leeks as I did successional planting - the first before the end of May and the second bed about 2 months later. I'm still only half way through harvesting the first bed and not a leek moth in sight. I'd never come across leek moth before last year and, while they didn't destroy the crop, they were slightly discouraging. This time I covered the crop with environmesh - good move.
Leeks are such a versatile vegetable,excellent in soups, casseroles or served with a cheese sauce, yummy! They are also nutritionally excellent - low in fat, sodium ( salt) and cholestrol but, high in essential vitamins and minerals.
The sprouts have been good this winter though, of course, are not so good frozen. I've had to buy them for a week or so. I have discovered that Maximus F1 and Bedford work particularly well on my ground, providing sprouts from early November (or even a bit earlier) until late February - if I've planted enough. This year I'm also experimenting with purple sprouts ( I can't say what variety as the young plants were given to me by my daughter). I'm not getting anything from them yet as, apparently, they crop much later into spring.
I could have dug up some parsnips as well. They have been good and very sweet but, they are very deep rooted which means me sinking deep into the mud to dig them out. I definitely have to be in the mood for that. ( I plant Tender and True - a good basic parsnip with excellent flavour and resistance to disease. They are also one of the cheaper varieties.)
I might get back to the plot again before the snow returns to harvest more of the same and some others. More later
Tuesday 4 January 2011
The importance of planning
I remember someone saying to me, when I had had my Bristol plot for a year, to write an article for newcomers in our allotment newsletter, on getting started. The concept of 'bare earth gardening' was introduced to me. That many people, with little experience take over a plot and start to dig....
I know it's a chore, and I suppose it depends on why you take on an allotment but, this plot of land costs money for you and, on most sites, it's important to show you are prepared to use the plot effectively - there is a long waiting list for sites on most sites. This pressure is put onto plot holders everywhere now. It is easy to get carried away on dreams of all sorts of stuff you can't buy in the supermarkets but, first, decide what your family will eat most of that you might be able to grow ( mushrooms are not IT... if you like them, it's probably easier and cheaper to buy them from a supermarket).
If your family eats lots of potatoes ( as I do), they are arguably the crop which benefits most from being homegrown - as a ground clearer they are beaten only by pigs! Homegrown - they are unregognisable from the stuff you can buy in supermarkets. I love them. They need to be ordered or bought now, so that they can be 'chitted' ( sprouted ) before planting.
Although I like to grow onions, shallots and garlic, I have noticed little difference in the flavour in mine from those I buy in a supermarket but, a huge difference in price. Still time to order and sow in Spring.
I know it's a chore, and I suppose it depends on why you take on an allotment but, this plot of land costs money for you and, on most sites, it's important to show you are prepared to use the plot effectively - there is a long waiting list for sites on most sites. This pressure is put onto plot holders everywhere now. It is easy to get carried away on dreams of all sorts of stuff you can't buy in the supermarkets but, first, decide what your family will eat most of that you might be able to grow ( mushrooms are not IT... if you like them, it's probably easier and cheaper to buy them from a supermarket).
If your family eats lots of potatoes ( as I do), they are arguably the crop which benefits most from being homegrown - as a ground clearer they are beaten only by pigs! Homegrown - they are unregognisable from the stuff you can buy in supermarkets. I love them. They need to be ordered or bought now, so that they can be 'chitted' ( sprouted ) before planting.
Although I like to grow onions, shallots and garlic, I have noticed little difference in the flavour in mine from those I buy in a supermarket but, a huge difference in price. Still time to order and sow in Spring.
new year,new plans, new plantings
As always, at this time of year, I am tired of winter, am suffering from 'cabin fever' and looking for ways to start the new growing year. Every year I waste at least 2 packets of seeds by sowing too early and achieving poor or non-existant crops later in the year.
I read that we can sow carrots in January to have early crops. I tried this last year in a deep box and covered them with fleece. Yes, I did get a crop but, disappointing. Of course the particularly harsh winter might have had something to do with that.
Talking about carrots - I have heard and read that carrot root fly can't fly above 30cm. Well! I'm telling you, in the SW they can fly up 1 and half metres - at least. A friend very kindly made me a 'carrot box'. 1and half metres by half metre and 1 and half metres high ( brilliant for thinning, I could sit on a chair to do that tedious job). I grew 2 varities - Autumn King ( which I love) and a variety I haven't come across before - Blanc a colet vert, from The Real Seed Catalogue ( a small, independent group selling heritage and unusual varieties of different veg. and no! I'm not a shareholder, just feel they are worth supporting). These have a really strong carroty favour, delicious raw and cooked.
Anyway, back to the season. I have sown my sweet pea seeds on 1st January. Last year I sowed some in November and some in March and had 2 overlapping and excellent crops- I love them, especially as one MUST keep cutting them to have a continous supply of these wonderful flowers. I will sow again in a couple of months.
As soon as the weather is mild enough, but this month, I will clean the inside of my poly tunnel. I will just use soapy water as I'm not happy about using disenfectants. Last summer I had red spider mite, for the first time
( probably due to the very dry early summer). I kept it under control with frequent watering. If anyone has any advice on this please let me know... as organic as is practical, please.
I'm awaiting, with considerable impatience, the arrival of my potato seed for chitting. I hope to sow an extra early crop of Earlies in my poly tunnel. I've done so for the last 2 years with some success and very early Early potatoes. They are then out in time to plant other crops.
Happy New Growing Year
I read that we can sow carrots in January to have early crops. I tried this last year in a deep box and covered them with fleece. Yes, I did get a crop but, disappointing. Of course the particularly harsh winter might have had something to do with that.
Talking about carrots - I have heard and read that carrot root fly can't fly above 30cm. Well! I'm telling you, in the SW they can fly up 1 and half metres - at least. A friend very kindly made me a 'carrot box'. 1and half metres by half metre and 1 and half metres high ( brilliant for thinning, I could sit on a chair to do that tedious job). I grew 2 varities - Autumn King ( which I love) and a variety I haven't come across before - Blanc a colet vert, from The Real Seed Catalogue ( a small, independent group selling heritage and unusual varieties of different veg. and no! I'm not a shareholder, just feel they are worth supporting). These have a really strong carroty favour, delicious raw and cooked.
Anyway, back to the season. I have sown my sweet pea seeds on 1st January. Last year I sowed some in November and some in March and had 2 overlapping and excellent crops- I love them, especially as one MUST keep cutting them to have a continous supply of these wonderful flowers. I will sow again in a couple of months.
As soon as the weather is mild enough, but this month, I will clean the inside of my poly tunnel. I will just use soapy water as I'm not happy about using disenfectants. Last summer I had red spider mite, for the first time
( probably due to the very dry early summer). I kept it under control with frequent watering. If anyone has any advice on this please let me know... as organic as is practical, please.
I'm awaiting, with considerable impatience, the arrival of my potato seed for chitting. I hope to sow an extra early crop of Earlies in my poly tunnel. I've done so for the last 2 years with some success and very early Early potatoes. They are then out in time to plant other crops.
Happy New Growing Year
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