July on the Allotment 2014

July on the Allotment – 2014

It has been quite dry for most of June and very pleasantly summery. July has started with more showery weather but still warm and sunny in intervals. Wonderful growing weather – especially for the weeds. Having been away a lot lately I find the weeds are getting very far ahead of me. But, really that is a small complaint.

This season has, so far, provided me with wonderful fruit – strawberries, raspberries [ from last year’s canes which have now finished and I will cut them back as the new season’s canes are starting to put on their fruits which also look like providing a heavy harvest], redcurrants, gooseberries and blackcurrants. My whitecurrants are also starting to ripen – I haven’t covered my whitecurrants either last year or this. For some reason the birds have not homed in on them and I can pick them at my leisure. Perhaps they don’t recognise the fruit – they are not commonly grown on our allotments or perhaps because they don’t have a lot of flavour – I suspect the former. This year I lost half of my redcurrants as I had assumed that as the fruits were still green I had time to cover them. However, the fruits of the redcurrants and blackcurrants in that area of my plot disappeared very early. Fortunately I have another area which was covered quite early.

I’m not a huge fan of sweet food so I rarely eat jam but, I do love any kind of pickle, relish, chutney or super spicy jelly which I can serve with savoury food. Fortunately, my family can absorb all of the jams and jellies I can make as well as the pickles, chutneys, ketchups, etc, which I can create – the hotter the better.

I have tried in the past to grow silver skin onions for pickling, growing Paris Silver Skin. It has not been particularly successful and although I had salad onions to eat, I didn’t have a usable crop of pickling onions.

This year I have grown Pompeii – a spring onion suitable for pickling as a ‘silver skin’. It has been amazing. If I had known it was going to be so good I would have sown several packets hoping for a good crop for pickling. However, they can be sown from March until mid to end of July. I have now sown another packet in the hope of getting another outstanding crop. I have found that late sowings are never so good but< I will report back on this.

My peas, this year, have been brilliant. I did sow a packet of sugar snap peas this year – Sugar Ann from Dobies. I’m not a great fan of mange-tout peas although I am happy with sugar snap. Unfortunately, I had to be away when they were at their best and I am now harvesting them as mature peas – not a great advertisement for these peas but, not their fault.

As usual, my maincrop [or perhaps my default crop] is Hurst Greenshaft. I have just finished harvesting my last large bucketful which I must spend my evening ‘shucking’ and freezing. My four packets of seeds sown into four rows has given me five buckets full of filled pea pods and a drawer in my freezer filled with packets of peas for the coming winter, as well as some to share with my family.

This has been a useless year for cauliflowers – the ground and the weather were too dry when they were heading-up and I had neither the time nor the energy to give them the water they needed to provide good heads but, as always. Each year gives its successes and its failures.

So far, potatoes this year, have been brilliant. My First Earlies – Epicure [ a variety I have not grown before] has been outstanding and very tasty. Of course my preference is for floury potatoes. Epicure are certainly not waxy but, otherwise have excellent applications.

My Mayan Gold, this year, have been so delicious. The plants provide a crop which is very abundant though doesn’t give huge tubers – wash them and steam, chip or roast. The steaming time is 10 – 15 mins when they will start to fall apart but the flavour is amazing – a plateful of these with butter and black pepper – yum!

Maintenance around the plot and in greenhouses or poly-tunnels –

·         watch for caterpillar attacks on tomato plants – pick off and destroy as you find them – tomato caterpillars, which can be green or beige coloured and really quite chunky will feed on leaves and fruits , destroying the fruits and allowing botrytis [grey mould] into the plants.

·         Watch, also, for red spider mite on indoor plants – they like dry warm conditions and can take over and destroy your indoor aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and chilli plants. The leaves of affected plants will take on a mottled unhealthy appearance. On closer inspection you will see webs, mostly on the backs of leaves and when the infestation is severe, between leaves and stems [if the infestation reaches this level, it is best to dig up and remove the infected plants – keeping a close eye on nearby plants for similar infection].

·         For me, at any rate, slugs and snails are not a problem indoors but can still be a serious issue on outdoor plants, especially brassicas. Do keep an eye on their activity – slug traps, pellets, etc are useful though, they can be quite a pest underground with root crops and potatoes.

·         Birds are always a problem though, thankfully, not indoors. Netting brassica plants is essential. Berries, especially gooseberries, are especially susceptible to harvesting by blackbirds. They also enjoy redcurrants and whitecurrants. I have found, over the years that blackbirds will take the ripe [red] sides out of ripening strawberries and will harvest the odd raspberry, it is not worth the trouble and expense of covering these fruits though redcurrants, cherries and gooseberries are a whole different ballgame – the birds are not prepared to share but, will take the lot.

·         A couple of years ago I also noticed that my rows of carrots were diminishing daily. One early morning I saw a plump pigeon eating off the lush green tops of my developing carrot plants – and I thought the only problems were poor germination and carrot root fly. Carrot Root Fly – an ongoing problem in the UK for carrot crops. I have tried many methods of beating this pest, including planting above 30cm or in raised beds. I have sown in a carrot box – made for me by a kind neighbour – about 1 metre off the ground. It seems the carrot fly on my allotment field have not read the instructions. Last year I grew an excellent crop in deep tubs in my back garden – as no-one locally was growing carrots, root fly were not a problem. However, as my crop was nearing the first thinning stage I was astounded to see that my crop had disappeared. There was no indication of slugs so I assume pigeons were the culprits. I do have a bird feeding station in my garden and feel somewhat miffed that they were not satisfied with the food I was putting out daily but, next year I will try again with netting!

·         Aphids - particularly on all beans, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants [especially red ants which seem to be more destructive and quicker to bite than their black ant cousins] – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them. Broad beans are particularly susceptible to black aphids. Remove the top growing points as soon as the plants have set pods at lower levels. While this does not eliminate the aphids it should discourage and hopefully encourage them to move elsewhere.

·         Continue to pinch out the side shoots of cordon tomato plants as they appear [not from bush tomatoes], on plants already growing on in green houses and poly-tunnels. Stake or tie up tomato and cucumber plants as they develop to keep them upright. By now the plants should be setting the young fruits;

·         Peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, courgettes and squashes are greedy feeders and are thirsty. They will require regular feeding and watering especially in warm dry weather;

·         Pick courgettes regularly to prevent them from becoming too large and to encourage the plants to produce more;

·         Strawberries will now be sending out lots of new runners. Peg these into the ground near the ‘mother’ plants or into pots of compost, to create new plants. They will need to be watered regularly especially if in pots.

·         Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.

- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].

·         Preparation and planning - re-dig beds as soon as crops are harvested, to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out.

Although it is early for ‘autumn’ digging, I will start to dig ground where crops have been harvested which will give me a chance to do the necessary digging [I have a large area to cover and opportunities for digging can easily be missed]. Areas such as pea beds and those for early brassicas can now be turned over.

Don’t forget that strawberry beds which are three years plus old should now be cleared – the ground re-dug and a new area set up for the young runners when rooted.

·         Sowing and planting

-      Of course, carrots can be sown until the end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I have had more success with earlier sown carrots;

-      Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from May until July outdoors;

-      Leeks can be transplanted as soon as the ground can be prepared. If it is very dry, water it well beforehand;

-      Spinach and Swiss Chard can still be sown;

-      Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket, spring onions, can all be sown outdoors;

-      Turnips can be sown until the end of August for harvesting into winter.

-      See Pompeii Onions above

·         Harvesting –

Second-Early and Early-Maincrop potatoes are now be ready for harvesting.

Lettuces and spring onions [see above]. The lettuces won’t sit too long in the bed – eat them quickly or give them away and replant with new seedlings. [ I am really bad at harvesting my lettuces and waste so many of them in-spite of offering them to others- I should rethink the varieties I grow and the quantities

Globe artichokes are still harvestable although watch out for greenfly and black fly – they are quite a nuisance now coming into their main harvesting season.

Soft fruit - redcurrants, blackcurrants and white currants as well as gooseberries, Keep them protected from birds – they do seem to love redcurrants and gooseberries particularly. If you have lots of fruit, make sure you have containers for freezing and lots of jam-pots ready for preserving. If you still have produce in your freezer from last year, now is the time to use it up so that you have space for the new crops.

Watering Crops in Dry Weather

Watering Crops in Dry Weather

May was a wet cool month as everyone probably remembers – excellent for planting out, digging, weeding and working with the ground – when we could find a short spell when it stopped raining long enough for us to work our plots. But, growth was a bit slow, waiting for some sunshine and heat.

In June we have definitely had that. Growth is rampant, especially with soft fruit of all types that the birds have left alone. I have had to be away quite a lot lately and find, on my return, that my soft fruit crops are way ahead of my picking and using ability. My sugar-snap peas are almost too mature and my summer brassicas – Romanesco and purple cauliflower have headed up but without the water they needed to provide good heads. Most of a bed of Little Gem lettuces have just gone beyond looking their most attractive though I might still be able to salvage some.

I still have some beetroot and winter brassicas in pots waiting to be planted out but, the ground is now too hard and unworkable to plant them. I might have to water the ground well in the beds to be able to plant them out - then water well over days to ensure they have established.

I have a large plot and a poly-tunnel and find that I really must restrict the amount of watering I do. We are not allowed hose-pipes on our allotments but must carry water from fixed points throughout the fields. This can be demanding and very physical work. As I have a poly-tunnel, growing crops which do require water, it is important that this is my first priority. I could choose to water directly onto the root areas of the plants and leave the rest of the ground dry. However, red spider-mites can be a problem. These determined little pests don’t like moisture so I choose to water all of the surface and the paths to discourage the mites which do come in to my tunnel and can move from plant to plant unless discouraged.

If I had lots of energy and unlimited supplies of water I would slosh loads of water around my summer brassicas as they are hearting up and around my peas and runner beans and French beans as they are putting on their flowers and developing pods.

I am watering recently transplanted seedlings and my courgettes, cucumbers and winter pumpkins. The courgettes are now setting, the cucumbers are developing and the winter pumpkins are just putting up their first female flowers – some of them look as though they need some extra water.

I’m not too worried about my runner beans. This year I have planted them around tepees rather than in rows. I have found that, as my plot is on a slight slope, as the season progresses and the plants become heavier, my rows of canes start to lean determinedly downhill. I have chosen to plant them in my no-dig area which has had a good mulch of manure each year for several years. In the last few years I have followed my now naturalised flower bulbs with winter pumpkins, squashes and courgettes. I thought, this year,  it would be a good idea to have a change of crop. Well manured and composted ground will definitely hold onto moisture much longer than ground which lacks humus.

Suggestions:

·        It is important also, to keep weeds off the planted beds as the weeds will compete with your crops for the available water. Although it would seem that the weed cover is keeping the moisture from evaporating, really, those weeds which are probably more at home on your ground than the crops you plant, will take the best nutrients and moisture. Hoeing is good in dry weather, if you can get the hoe through the ground. The decomposing weeds will be a mulch to help keep the moisture in. In wet weather, hoeing is not so useful as the weeds move over and re-root

·        Lots of humus in the soil helps to hold onto the moisture in dry weather. Add manure, either as a mulch in autumn or early spring and dig in well or, in a no-dig bed, add in the autumn and let the worms take the humus into the soil. I have, in the past [and will probably continue to do so, put lots of well rotted manure around my fruit bushes, trees, canes etc. in autumn and early spring to feed them and to act as a mulch. However, I have found that birds – crows, magpies, blackbirds, robins, pigeons, remove it looking for insects and scatter it everywhere but under my bushes.

·        Do think about the response of the plant you are watering to the water you are putting on it.

·        Do think about the amount of energy you expend and water used watering plants which may not need watering.

·        Remember that watering encourages leaf, stem and flower growth, for root crops this is not necessarily what you want.

Water is one of the essentials to make plants grow and most gardeners assume that keeping vegetables well watered will pay dividends. In fact, this is not always the case and excess water can result in rotting, leaching of nutrients, poor taste and poor keeping qualities, especially in onions and garlic.

All vegetables need water to start with, either from seed or when planted out. After this establishment phase is over, they usually grow very strongly and push roots wide and deep, 2 feet or more is common. This is usually early season when water is freely available in the soil and extra watering is totally unnecessary and can result in a weak root growth (with a poor subsequent performance) or the production of large amounts of something you don’t want – foliage on peas, for example. When the plant has grown, the onset of flower and seed formation, which is often the product you do want, means that the plant’s emphasis changes to the production of these and root formation stops. It is at this time that many plants need extra water and they respond very well if you apply it.

Watering technique is also important. Roots are usually deep and you need impractically large quantities of water to get enough down there. The only way to help the plant is to target the roots – light sprays over the foliage or wetting ground are useless. This targeting is assisted if you build in depressions in the soil around the plant (peas/beans) or bury a bottomless bottle next to the plant roots (tomatoes). Many will find the extra hassle of these measures not worth the effort [like me – I have 5 ridges of peas and three tepees of beans. I feel they must take their chances with the weather and, so far this policy has worked well]

See the table below for the optimum and necessary times for watering you crops:

Category 1  - Responds well to frequent watering

Category 2  - Water only at sensitive stages shown

Category 3 -  Not very responsive, water only as advised

 

Category 1 - Responds well to frequent watering

·        Aubergines, peppers and chillies – high maintenance plants which require lots of heat, moisture and food – water twice daily. [I wish! Mine are watered when it suits me, every day if possible though I do give them a good drenching when I do water].

·        Summer cabbage and calabrese – most efficient is one watering 2 weeks before cutting

·        Cauliflowers - most efficient is one watering 2 weeks before cutting.

·        Lettuces – throughout their life.

·        Courgettes and other curcurbits [cucumbers, pumpkins, melons, squash, gourds] – frequently once flowers and fruits form.

·        Spinach/ Swiss chard – frequently.

Category 2 - Water only at sensitive stages shown.

·        All beans – when flowering and throughout pod formation and development.

·        Peas - when flowering and throughout pod formation and development.

·        Potatoes – when flowers start to form and potatoes are the size of marbles – for many plot holders this can be a large area [ I never water my potatoes, whatever the weather].

·        Sweetcorn – at tassle and cob formation.

·        Tomatoes – when flowering and setting fruit, be careful to not over water as this will affect the flavour.

Category 3 - Not very responsive, water only as advised :

·        Beetroot – water before the soil gets too dry.

·        Broccoli [winter] – water well after transplanting to ensure the plants have established.

·        Brussels Sprouts - water well after transplanting to ensure the plants have established.

·        Carrots – before the soil gets too dry, just along the rows.

·        Curcurbits [ cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, courgettes, melons] – water well but slowly to allow the water to penetrate to the deep roots, perhaps once a week. Avoid water on the leaves to prevent disease. But frequently once the fruits form.

·        Garlic and onions – do not water in the later stages but, for spring onions water just along the rows.

·        Leeks – after transplanting to ensure they have established.

·        Parsnips – water just along the rows before the soil gets too dry.

·        Radishes – water just along the rows before the soil gets too dry.