White-Currants - a special event!

feasting from allotments

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Using White-currants –ribes rubrum

Although I have known about white-currants for many years – I had seen them in the orchard of friends of my parents when I was a little girl, I have never actually seen them used or tasted products made from them – redcurrants yes! I do love redcurrant jelly with roast meat, especially lamb and it is quite a good substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly with the Christmas turkey. Perhaps that makes our currants sound like the poor relation but, they really are a wonderful fruit both for savoury dishes and for desserts.

I was rather fascinated by this rather ignored fruit so, I bought a couple of bushes to ‘give them a try’ a couple of years ago. They don’t produce fruit on new wood but, like redcurrants, the long strings of jewel like fruits are borne on older wood.

This year, after a long cold winter and poor spring, has been amazingly productive for white-currants and redcurrants.

There is, however, little information around on what to do with white-currants in the kitchen so, I’ve had to experiment a little though, ideas that work for redcurrants can also work for white-currants.

I do think they are probably the most beautiful of fruits. On their long strings of ripe berries they look like exotic strings of jewels – long glistening earrings!

Birds just love redcurrants so, it is really important to net them carefully, especially as the bright red fruits are easily seen by passing pigeons, magpies and blackbirds who seem to find them very palatable some time before we would find them ripe enough to use.

I didn’t net my white-currants. The green unripe berries blend well with the luxurious leaf growth and have stayed hidden until they have started to ripen. I have seen no signs of bird predation, unlike on my netted redcurrants – I had to help a magpie to escape from my fruit cage a couple of days ago while its mate screeched alarm from a nearby bush. This year, there has been enough for all and in a couple of days when I have harvested most of my gooseberries, I will open my fruit cages and let the birds eat their fill.

Apart from preserves using this fruit they are just wonderful on cakes and puddings.

As a decoration  - keep the ripe berries on their stalks but choose the most perfect stalks you can find.

Ø  For puddings and ice cream – wash the fruit carefully, and dry on kitchen paper. Place carefully into suitable freezer containers [not bags], keeping each string of berries separate from others and freeze. When needed the frozen fruits can be placed on ice-cream dishes, sorbets and cold puddings just before serving.

Ø  For decoration on cakes, flans, tartlets – choose the best strings of the fruit you can find. Wash and dry them on sheets of kitchen paper. Brush over each fruit with egg white or whisk the egg white lightly and dunk the fruit into it ensuring all of the fruit has been coated. Dust each string of fruit with castor sugar, ensuring all of the fruit has been coated. Set out onto greaseproof paper to dry. These fruits will keep for some days.

Preserves

White-currants are a close relation to redcurrants – [both are Ribes rubrum]. It is thought that white-currants are actually a sport or mutation of redcurrants though they have been around for a very long time. The fruits, when ripe are not really white but a very pale peachy colour and jams or jellies made from them will have a warm pink colour. If you wish to make the colour richer you can add a few redcurrants to the mixture, though it does seem a shame to alter it like this.

The most famous white-currant preserves are Bar-le-Duc, also called Lorraine Jelly. These preserves have been made in a small town of the same name in the provence of Lorraine [north east France], for many centuries. However, they are costly as the seeds are carefully removed from each individual fruit while keeping the fruits intact – a job which can only be done by hand. These berries are then suspended in the jelly.

Whitecurrant Jelly

1½ kg (3lb) whitecurrants – actually it doesn’t really matter how much you have, the amount of sugar added will depend on the amount of juice extracted.

½ litre [1 pint] water

Method

1.      Wash the fruit and remove any leaves or bits of twig. You can leave the stalks in. Put them in a preserving pan with the water.

2.      Heat very gently to draw the juice from the fruit, then simmer slowly until the fruit has been totally softened or turned to pulp.

3.      Strain through a scalded jelly bag. Leave it overnight to ensure all the juice has been extracted. Don’t be tempted to squeeze the bag, you will make your jelly cloudy for little extra juice.

4.      Measure the juice and add approx. 1kg sugar for every litre of juice (1lb for every pint).

5.      Return the juice and the sugar to a clean preserving pan and heat slowly until all the sugar has dissolved. Stir frequently to ensure the sugar doesn’t stick.

6.      Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. [place a little on a saucer and allow to cool – the jelly should wrinkle when pushed with a finger]. There is a lot of pectin in currants so, it should reach setting point quite quickly.

7.      Skim to remove any froth from the top of the jelly or add a small knob of butter and stir in rapidly (this should remove any froth from the top of the jelly).

8.      Pot up in small, hot, sterilised jars. Cover immediately and label.

Whitecurrant Jam

Like most currant jams, if it is made in the same way as most jams, the preserve can be quite seedy and many people, including myself, find this rather unpleasant. However, there is a compromise between the jam and jelly.

1½ kg (3lb) whitecurrants – actually it doesn’t really matter how much you have, the amount of sugar added will depend on the amount of puréed fruit.

½ litre [1 pint] water

1.      Wash the fruit and remove any leaves or bits of twig. You can leave the stalks in. Put them in a preserving pan with the water.

2.      Heat very gently to draw the juice from the fruit then, simmer slowly until the fruit has been totally softened or turned to pulp.

3.      Using the back of a wooden spoon press the pulp through a sieve [use a nylon sieve – not a metal], to take as much of the pulp as possible but leaving seeds, stalks and skins behind which can be discarded.

4.      Measure the pulp in a measuring jug and add approx. 1kg sugar for every litre of juice (1lb for every pint).

5.      Return the pulp and the sugar to a clean preserving pan and heat slowly until all the sugar has dissolved. Stir frequently to ensure the sugar doesn’t stick and burn.

6.      Bring to the boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. [place a little on a saucer and allow to cool – the jam should wrinkle when pushed with a finger]. There is a lot of pectin in currants so, it should reach setting point quite quickly.

7.      Skim to remove any froth from the top of the jam or add a small knob of butter and stir in rapidly (this should remove any froth from the top of the jam).

8.      Pot up in small, hot, sterilised jars. Cover immediately and label.

This stuff is rare, delicious and precious. If you are going to use it, make sure it is for a special event. If you are going to give it away, make it for a special occasion, as a gift, etc.

What to do on the Allotment in July

July on the Allotment

From July into the autumn months most of the frantic sowing and planting out has been finished although there are still some varieties of beans which can be sown or planted out as they really don’t like cold nights and have just about and salad crops can continue to be sown for some months.

However, while the sowing and planting may have slowed down the harvesting and dealing with the resultant crops is only just starting. What joy!

Maintenance around the plot and in greenhouses or poly-tunnels –

ü  watch for caterpillar attacks on tomato plants – pick off and destroy as you find them – tomato caterpillars, which can be green or beige coloured and really quite chunky will feed on leaves and fruits , destroying the fruits and allowing botrytis [grey mould] into the plants.

ü  Watch, also, for red spider mite on indoor plants – they like dry warm conditions and can take over and destroy your indoor aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and chilli plants. The leaves of affected plants will take on a mottled unhealthy appearance. On closer inspection you will see webs, mostly on the backs of leaves and when the infestation is severe, between leaves and stems [if the infestation reaches this level, it is best to dig up and remove the infected plants – keeping a close eye on nearby plants for similar infection].

ü  For me, at any rate, slugs and snails are not a problem indoors but can still be a serious issue on outdoor plants, especially brassicas. Do keep an eye on their activity – slug traps, pellets, etc are useful though, they can be quite a pest underground with root crops and potatoes.

ü  Birds are always a problem though, thankfully, not indoors. Netting brassica plants is essential. Berries, especially gooseberries, are especially susceptible to harvesting by blackbirds. They also enjoy redcurrants and whitecurrants. I have found, over the years that blackbirds will take the ripe [red] sides out of ripening strawberries and will harvest the odd raspberry, it is not worth the trouble and expense of covering these fruits though redcurrants, cherries and gooseberries are a whole different ballgame – the birds are not prepared to share but, will take the lot.

A couple of years ago I also noticed that my rows of carrots were diminishing daily. One early morning I saw a plump pigeon eating off the lush green tops of my developing carrot plants – and I thought the only problems were poor germination and carrot root fly.

ü  Carrot Root Fly – an ongoing problem in the UK for carrot crops. I have tried many methods of beating this pest, including planting above 30cm or in raised beds. I have sown in a carrot box – made for me by a kind neighbour – about 1 metre off the ground. It seems the carrot fly on my allotment field have not read the manual – they also attacked my penthouse crops.

I have also tried inter-planting rows of carrots with plants like marigold with little success. I have found that earlier sown carrots and especially white carrots which seem to have a less ’carroty’ smell, are less likely to be attacked by carrot fly.

My best success has been with indoor grown carrots early in the season – with a suitable variety; sowing early – though possibly not as early as some seed houses suggest

ü  By June you should have finished harvesting asparagus. The plants should now be allowed to grow on into ferns, watch out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are seen. It is important to allow all the spears to grow to maturity from now on, to feed and strengthen the roots for next year’s crops.

ü  Aphids - particularly on broad beans, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants [especially red ants which seem to be more destructive and quicker to bite than their black ant cousins] – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them. Broad beans are particularly susceptible to black aphids. Remove the top growing points as soon as the plants have set pods at lower levels. While this does not eliminate the aphids it should discourage and hopefully encourage them to move elsewhere.

ü  Continue to pinch out the side shoots of cordon tomato plants as they appear [not from bush tomatoes], on plants already growing on in green houses and poly-tunnels. Stake or tie up tomato and cucumber plants as they develop to keep them upright. By now the plants should be setting the young fruits;

ü  Peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, courgettes and squashes are greedy feeders and are thirsty. They will require regular feeding and watering especially in warm dry weather;

ü  Pick courgettes regularly to prevent them from becoming too large and to encourage the plants to produce more;

ü  Strawberries will now be sending out lots of new runners. Peg these into the ground near the ‘mother’ plants or into pots of compost, to create new plants. They will need to be watered regularly especially if in pots.

- Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.

- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].

- As soon as they are big enough to handle, thin carrots and parsnips – dispose of carrot thinnings carefully to avoid attracting carrot fly.

- Keep fruit cages tidy and weeded – for particularly vulnerable bushes like redcurrants and gooseberries, ensure the cages are secure although do allow an escape hole for those intrepid birds which find a way in, in case of predators – cats and foxes will force a way in to catch trapped birds.

- Pruning of Plum and cherry trees should be done when the plant is in full growth and not when dormant, to avoid Silver Leaf – early July is considered by many to be the best time. On the allotment it is important to keep the size of the trees [height and spread] under control, not just for your own use but, also to avoid them overhanging neighbours’ plots or blocking neighbours’ light. Whatever the shape you choose, aim to keep the tree open, cutting out crossing stems or any branches or stems which are diseased. Cut out any new stems which are growing from the root stock.

·         Preparation and planning

- re-dig beds as soon as crops are harvested, to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. Many brassica crops will now finish harvesting - cauliflowers [Romanescu and all Year Round]. Onions, shallots and garlic which have been grown from sets in autumn should now be available to harvest. Overwintered onions don’t keep well so, use  up before harvesting and eating the spring grown crops.

·         Sowing and planting

You can still sow – French beans [some varieties are better sown a bit later. Read the instructions from the seed supplier], beetroot [although you may have sown earlier in the season, if you like this crop you can continue to sow until August]:-

-      Some brassicas can be sown outdoors and can be transplanted from pots or seedbeds – broccoli/calabrese, spring cabbage for next year, winter-cabbage can still be planted out, kale can be sown outdoors and planted out until the end of July;

-      Of course, carrots can be sown until the end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I have had more success with earlier sown carrots;

-      Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from May until July outdoors;

-      Leeks can be transplanted as soon as the ground can be prepared. If it is very dry, water it well beforehand;

-      Spinach and Swiss Chard can still be sown;

-      Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket, spring onions, can all be sown outdoors;

-      Turnips can be sown until the end of August for harvesting into winter.

 

·         Harvesting –

Second-Early and Early-Maincrop potatoes should now be ready for harvesting.

Globe artichokes are now coming into their main harvesting season.

Early sowings of peas – if sown under a cloche should start to provide a crop in now.

Some varieties of cauliflower and broccoli will be developing wonderful heads, usually all together. When you see them beginning to ‘head-up’ give them lots of water to encourage larger curds. Once ready they will not ‘sit’ well in the ground. Harvest them as soon as they are ready and store the whole plant, hung upside down in a shed or store the curds in a plastic bag in the fridge.

Over wintered onions and garlic will now finish its growth – look out for yellowing leaves and some withering. In onions, the leaves will fold over. Lift them and set them on the ground, in dry weather or on a rack, to allow them to dry out before storing in a cool dry place.

Young turnips, sown under cover in early spring should now be available for harvesting.

Continue to harvest rhubarb.

Soft fruit - redcurrants, blackcurrants and white currants as well as gooseberries, early varieties of raspberry and strawberries should now be ripening. Keep them protected from birds – they do seem to love redcurrants and gooseberries particularly. If you have lots of fruit, make sure you have containers for freezing and lots of jam-pots ready for preserving. If you still have produce in your freezer from last year, now is the time to use it up so that you have space for the new crops.

Herbs to Repel Insect Pests

Herbs to Discourage Insects

I have been whinging on for some years now, about the red ants in my poly-tunnel, the damage they cause and the seeming impossibility of eradicating them.

Baited ant traps were useless ‘be sure to put them on the paths that the ants take’ the directions advised. It seems the ants are attracted to the bait, taking it back to the nest where it annihilates all members of the colony. I followed all the instructions carefully - the ants built their nests under the ant traps and the colonies grew stronger.

I used Py solution – a pyrethrin based insecticide [and therefore organic]. This was okay although I had to dig up the nests and make sure the solution made contact with every ant – time consuming and not totally effective.

A friend advised me to use Eraza Ant Killing Solution [not organic – I was getting desperate!]. Well it also only worked on direct contact with the ants and where I used it inside [the poly-tunnel] it affected my breathing most unpleasantly.

I have just finished harvesting my lavender – a wonderful crop this year – and I actually managed to harvest it at the right time and in the best conditions for saving and using. I have bundles of it hanging in every room in my house for drying but, also to keep flies away, usually quite a pest in our rare warm, dry summers and this summer is definitely dry. Lavender is definitely one of my favourite herbs and though it can be used in cooking, I don’t. I use it for sleep cushions [it is so relaxing], in my wardrobes, cupboards and drawers to deter moths but it is also useful, especially in summer months when windows and doors are open, for repelling mosquitoes, moths and midges as well as flies. It has a reputation also, of helping to keep fleas off cats and dogs though, I’m not sure it would deter the very determined species I have in my area nor could I see my cats sitting happily while I rubbed lavender oil into their fur.

As I was preparing the lavender I wondered how other herbs might be used to discourage ants from my poly-tunnel or even from my allotment – a big ask!

Interestingly, cedar is really excellent for deterring moths. Clothes or household linens, stored in cedar cupboards or chests are most unlikely to be attacked by moths. If, like me, you would find the cedar furniture rather too expensive, it is possible to buy blocks of cedar wood to hang in cupboards. When the strong cedar resin aroma has faded, sand off the outside of the block to revive it for another few months.

Bay – laurus nobilis. I planted a small bay tree in a pot in my garden some years ago thinking that, as it was an expensive tree, I would be able to take it with me if I moved house. It is now 6 feet high and a significant shrub. It’s still in its pot but, I suspect, it has rooted through the bottom of the pot into the ground beneath. It is much too healthy looking to be a pot-grown bush. [I had a similar issue with a giant redwood tree –sequoia gigantium - given to me as a present some years ago as a 10in high sapling. I knew better than to plant it in my garden so I put it into a fairly substantial pot. However, a few years on it had grown 20ft high and was much too happy to be surviving in just a pot. I had to cut it down but, still haven’t managed to release the pot from the considerable root system underneath.]

Bunches of bay, fresh or dried will deter moths, cockroaches and flies. Try scattering the leaves in drawers and cupboard shelves.

Basil – excellent for keeping flies and mosquitoes away. Unfortunately, in the UK, this is not an outdoor plant and is not too happy indoors during the winter. While I do grow my own during the spring and summer months, for the rest of the year I will buy the pots from the supermarket. Pots of fresh bay are not only an essential culinary ingredient but are an excellent insect repellent.

Mint – now this herb would definitely keep ants out of my poly-tunnel if I planted it in there. Unfortunately, it would take over in one short season. I had started growing mint in my garden in an old Belfast sink but I found that I had to replant every year as it became pot bound quite quickly. I took a couple of small roots to my allotment where it quickly colonised an extensive area in that part of the allotment I had set aside for fruit trees and herbs. It is a magnificent display each year but requires assertive, if not aggressive weeding out each year to keep it under control and away from my fruit trees. However, while there are ants nests on all other parts of my allotment, there are none in that area. I might consider pots of mint placed on the path of the poly-tunnel for next year.

There are very many varieties of mint and while I have tried a few of them I now grow just spearmint and apple mint both of which would be among the Classic mint group. Mint is useful for discouraging flies, fleas, mice, ants and mosquitoes.

Rosemary – every home should have some and although I don’t use a huge amount in cooking, it is not a herb I can do without in my kitchen and as it is available all year round it is useful to have a pot or two outside the kitchen door.

Rosemary can grow into quite large shrubs or even hedges and is wonderfully aromatic when you brush against it. I have always grown mine in large tubs and my favourite is the prostrate variety which hangs down over the edges of a large ornamental tub in my back yard.

Three or four years ago I took cuttings from my quite ancient prostrate rosemary and the other one I was growing a Tuscan Blue. I planted a couple of new little bushes from these cuttings in my neighbour’s garden and the rest in pots for my own use. We had a particularly harsh winter that year and I lost all of my rosemary plants, including the really old one in the tub. The frost had been so hard it had frozen right through to the roots of the potted plants. My neighbour’s – planted straight into the garden - had survived. I thought I would have no trouble replacing what is, after all, a fairly common herb but garden centres and several nurseries had also lost their stocks of rosemary in the same way.

Rosemary has a reputation of keeping mosquitoes and cats away. However, I have four cats and while I certainly don’t see them lazing under the rosemary pots, nor does it keep them out of my yard.

While I don’t grow Tansy as I have no culinary use for it – the leaves are very bitter. It is an old deterrent to ants, mice, moths and animal fleas.