What to do on the Allotment in July

July on the Allotment

From July into the autumn months most of the frantic sowing and planting out has been finished although there are still some varieties of beans which can be sown or planted out as they really don’t like cold nights and have just about and salad crops can continue to be sown for some months.

However, while the sowing and planting may have slowed down the harvesting and dealing with the resultant crops is only just starting. What joy!

Maintenance around the plot and in greenhouses or poly-tunnels –

ü  watch for caterpillar attacks on tomato plants – pick off and destroy as you find them – tomato caterpillars, which can be green or beige coloured and really quite chunky will feed on leaves and fruits , destroying the fruits and allowing botrytis [grey mould] into the plants.

ü  Watch, also, for red spider mite on indoor plants – they like dry warm conditions and can take over and destroy your indoor aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and chilli plants. The leaves of affected plants will take on a mottled unhealthy appearance. On closer inspection you will see webs, mostly on the backs of leaves and when the infestation is severe, between leaves and stems [if the infestation reaches this level, it is best to dig up and remove the infected plants – keeping a close eye on nearby plants for similar infection].

ü  For me, at any rate, slugs and snails are not a problem indoors but can still be a serious issue on outdoor plants, especially brassicas. Do keep an eye on their activity – slug traps, pellets, etc are useful though, they can be quite a pest underground with root crops and potatoes.

ü  Birds are always a problem though, thankfully, not indoors. Netting brassica plants is essential. Berries, especially gooseberries, are especially susceptible to harvesting by blackbirds. They also enjoy redcurrants and whitecurrants. I have found, over the years that blackbirds will take the ripe [red] sides out of ripening strawberries and will harvest the odd raspberry, it is not worth the trouble and expense of covering these fruits though redcurrants, cherries and gooseberries are a whole different ballgame – the birds are not prepared to share but, will take the lot.

A couple of years ago I also noticed that my rows of carrots were diminishing daily. One early morning I saw a plump pigeon eating off the lush green tops of my developing carrot plants – and I thought the only problems were poor germination and carrot root fly.

ü  Carrot Root Fly – an ongoing problem in the UK for carrot crops. I have tried many methods of beating this pest, including planting above 30cm or in raised beds. I have sown in a carrot box – made for me by a kind neighbour – about 1 metre off the ground. It seems the carrot fly on my allotment field have not read the manual – they also attacked my penthouse crops.

I have also tried inter-planting rows of carrots with plants like marigold with little success. I have found that earlier sown carrots and especially white carrots which seem to have a less ’carroty’ smell, are less likely to be attacked by carrot fly.

My best success has been with indoor grown carrots early in the season – with a suitable variety; sowing early – though possibly not as early as some seed houses suggest

ü  By June you should have finished harvesting asparagus. The plants should now be allowed to grow on into ferns, watch out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are seen. It is important to allow all the spears to grow to maturity from now on, to feed and strengthen the roots for next year’s crops.

ü  Aphids - particularly on broad beans, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants [especially red ants which seem to be more destructive and quicker to bite than their black ant cousins] – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them. Broad beans are particularly susceptible to black aphids. Remove the top growing points as soon as the plants have set pods at lower levels. While this does not eliminate the aphids it should discourage and hopefully encourage them to move elsewhere.

ü  Continue to pinch out the side shoots of cordon tomato plants as they appear [not from bush tomatoes], on plants already growing on in green houses and poly-tunnels. Stake or tie up tomato and cucumber plants as they develop to keep them upright. By now the plants should be setting the young fruits;

ü  Peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, courgettes and squashes are greedy feeders and are thirsty. They will require regular feeding and watering especially in warm dry weather;

ü  Pick courgettes regularly to prevent them from becoming too large and to encourage the plants to produce more;

ü  Strawberries will now be sending out lots of new runners. Peg these into the ground near the ‘mother’ plants or into pots of compost, to create new plants. They will need to be watered regularly especially if in pots.

- Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.

- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].

- As soon as they are big enough to handle, thin carrots and parsnips – dispose of carrot thinnings carefully to avoid attracting carrot fly.

- Keep fruit cages tidy and weeded – for particularly vulnerable bushes like redcurrants and gooseberries, ensure the cages are secure although do allow an escape hole for those intrepid birds which find a way in, in case of predators – cats and foxes will force a way in to catch trapped birds.

- Pruning of Plum and cherry trees should be done when the plant is in full growth and not when dormant, to avoid Silver Leaf – early July is considered by many to be the best time. On the allotment it is important to keep the size of the trees [height and spread] under control, not just for your own use but, also to avoid them overhanging neighbours’ plots or blocking neighbours’ light. Whatever the shape you choose, aim to keep the tree open, cutting out crossing stems or any branches or stems which are diseased. Cut out any new stems which are growing from the root stock.

·         Preparation and planning

- re-dig beds as soon as crops are harvested, to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. Many brassica crops will now finish harvesting - cauliflowers [Romanescu and all Year Round]. Onions, shallots and garlic which have been grown from sets in autumn should now be available to harvest. Overwintered onions don’t keep well so, use  up before harvesting and eating the spring grown crops.

·         Sowing and planting

You can still sow – French beans [some varieties are better sown a bit later. Read the instructions from the seed supplier], beetroot [although you may have sown earlier in the season, if you like this crop you can continue to sow until August]:-

-      Some brassicas can be sown outdoors and can be transplanted from pots or seedbeds – broccoli/calabrese, spring cabbage for next year, winter-cabbage can still be planted out, kale can be sown outdoors and planted out until the end of July;

-      Of course, carrots can be sown until the end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I have had more success with earlier sown carrots;

-      Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from May until July outdoors;

-      Leeks can be transplanted as soon as the ground can be prepared. If it is very dry, water it well beforehand;

-      Spinach and Swiss Chard can still be sown;

-      Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket, spring onions, can all be sown outdoors;

-      Turnips can be sown until the end of August for harvesting into winter.

 

·         Harvesting –

Second-Early and Early-Maincrop potatoes should now be ready for harvesting.

Globe artichokes are now coming into their main harvesting season.

Early sowings of peas – if sown under a cloche should start to provide a crop in now.

Some varieties of cauliflower and broccoli will be developing wonderful heads, usually all together. When you see them beginning to ‘head-up’ give them lots of water to encourage larger curds. Once ready they will not ‘sit’ well in the ground. Harvest them as soon as they are ready and store the whole plant, hung upside down in a shed or store the curds in a plastic bag in the fridge.

Over wintered onions and garlic will now finish its growth – look out for yellowing leaves and some withering. In onions, the leaves will fold over. Lift them and set them on the ground, in dry weather or on a rack, to allow them to dry out before storing in a cool dry place.

Young turnips, sown under cover in early spring should now be available for harvesting.

Continue to harvest rhubarb.

Soft fruit - redcurrants, blackcurrants and white currants as well as gooseberries, early varieties of raspberry and strawberries should now be ripening. Keep them protected from birds – they do seem to love redcurrants and gooseberries particularly. If you have lots of fruit, make sure you have containers for freezing and lots of jam-pots ready for preserving. If you still have produce in your freezer from last year, now is the time to use it up so that you have space for the new crops.