Allotment: From Plan to Plot to Platter: planting potatoes

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Monday, 4 May 2015

May 2015 - On the Allotment

May 2015 on the Allotment – what we should do

Although winter 2014 into 2015 has been fairly mild, it has rather continued into the spring making the growing year slow to start and some seeds – sown well within their sowing time have failed to germinate. While this may well have been my fault, I really believe it was just too cold. This was followed up in April with a long dry month which was also unseasonally warm. Now at least, we are getting some much-needed rain although it is still a little cool. Today – at the start of May, I have been planting out my Runner Beans [Lady Di] which I have germinated in pots in my polytunnel. Germination has been close to 100%. The ground I was planting them into was in really nice condition. It had been well dug in the autumn then dug over again earlier this spring

My autumn sown Broad Beans have survived the winter well and pods are well set already – no sign of black fly, as yet – this is one of the advantages of autumn sowing broad beans – they avoid the worst of the black fly infestation. This time I sowed Aquadulce Claudia [as I usually do].

For the first time for a few years, I have been able to harvest parsley all winter – only a little during the winter as the growth was very slow but my, really quite substantial bed is now keeping up with my demands quite well My newly sown parsley is now germinating. I have sown 2 varieties this year – curly leaf – Lisette and flat leaf – Titan. I haven’t sown either of these varieties before.

Potatoes – although I had most of my 1^st and 2^nd Earlies in the ground my mid March, or there-abouts and they are now mostly above ground [some of the leaves showing a bit of frost damage which they will recover from] my late main-crops were not planted until the end of April as the ground was so hard.

Maintenance around the plot and in green house or poly-tunnel

– keep established plants healthy and pest free – protect from slugs, snails and birds, especially on newly planted brassicas – cabbages, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, broccoli. As asparagus is now growing well, watch out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are seen. Aphids, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them.

Watch for red-spider mite on indoor plants – spray the young plants with water regularly – [red-spider mites like dry conditions]. Regular spraying with SB Plant Invigorator [it is organic] will strengthen the plants and discourage pests.

- Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.

- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].

- Earth-up potatoes as they start to appear, to protect from late frosts.

- Set up support for early sowings of peas.

- Pinch out the tender top growth of broad beans as soon as the first few rows of pods set at the bottom of the plants to deter black-fly [aphids] – particularly in spring sown beans, autumn sown beans, if they survive the winter, are less likely to be attacked.

- Protect strawberries from resting on the naked earth or mud – place straw under the plants or plant matting. Blackbirds do love the early ripening strawberries so netting might be necessary but be careful that the birds don’t get trapped under the netting.

- Remove the flower heads of rhubarb as soon as they start to appear as they will stop the production of new leaves [also some people prize the rhubarb flowers for flower arrangements – the flowers can attract aphids].

- As soon as they are big enough to handle, thin carrots and parsnips – dispose of carrot thinnings carefully to avoid attracting carrot fly.

- Keep fruit cages tidy and weeded – for particularly vulnerable bushes like redcurrants and gooseberries, ensure the cages are secure although do allow an escape hole for those intrepid birds which find a way in, in case of predators – cats and foxes will force a way in to catch trapped birds.

- Compost old plants or those which have finished producing.

- The polythene cover on my poly-tunnel is now becoming quite ragged in places and I plan to replace it early next spring. However, as I have had tomato blight in the tunnel last season, I think it might be best to move the tunnel to another spot on my plot and give it a fresh start on new ground.

Preparation and planning

- re-dig beds to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. As far possible, maintain the plan for good crop rotation you created over the winter – sometimes this does not work out as planned – weather, timing and condition of the soil can prevent implementation of excellent plans. Avoid planting root crops where you have added manure or lime.

When transplanting brassicas, it is a good idea to add a sprinkling of lime around each plant if you know your soil is too acid. Don’t add manure at the same time as lime but try to dig in good, well-rotted manure earlier in the season when digging the beds or in the previous autumn if possible..

For outdoor seed beds, ensure the soil has been broken down to a fine tilth. If your soil is particularly heavy or wet and is not breaking down easily - this can difficult on heavy clay soil or after a particularly wet season, it can be useful [especially with small seeds] to dig the bed over then create a shallow trench, fill with good quality compost [ bought-in is fine] and sow the seeds into this medium. Water well.

Sowing and planting

- under cover [in green house or poly-tunnel] - winter cauliflower, celery, pumpkin and squash, runner beans. Herbs – basil.

– outdoors – [do wait a couple of weeks for the ground to be less cold] – beetroot, brassicas [broccoli/calabrese, spring, summer and winter cabbage, summer and winter cauliflower, kale, Swedes], Beans – runner and French, carrots, courgettes, outdoor cucumbers, Florence fennel, lettuce, parsnips, potatoes [up to early May – the later the crop, the greater the risk of blight] 2^nd early and maincrop peas, pumpkins and squashes, radish, rocket, spinach and Swiss chard, spring onions, sweetcorn, turnips.

You can now transplant – into a poly-tunnel or greenhouse, young plants which have been raised in a propagator or heated greenhouse/conservatory – tomatoes, chillies and peppers, aubergines, indoor cucumbers.

You can now transplant outdoors – aubergines [only in warmer, sheltered areas], broad beans, French and runner beans, Brassicas – broccoli and calabrese, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, kale], celery, celeriac, outdoor cucumbers, leeks, peas [if raised under cover], peppers and chillies[only in warmer, sheltered areas], pumpkins and squashes, outdoor tomatoes.

In all cases, harden the plants off well before planting out and do consider the weather. The young plants should be well watered into their final growing spot and continue to water until the plants have established – if necessary.

If you are planning to set up an asparagus bed in the spring, May is the last month for buying crowns though, in warmer areas it is probably too late as established beds are well into their productive season. Of course you can also buy in the autumn which will give you time to create a suitable permanent bed.

Last autumn I dug up my bed of Globe Artichokes as they were becoming rather untidy and woody – my splitting of the plants in the last couple of years had limited success. The ground of their had also become quite compacted. I bought in some new young plants from Thompson and Morgan which I have now potted up and will plant out later in the month. The received advice is to remove any flower heads which appear in the first year and don’t allow them to mature, to allow the young plants to establish well. However, I have kept a couple on which seemed to do little damage to the plants.

Harvesting – May is well into the lean time of the year. With luck and good planning spring cabbages should be available. If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse or poly-tunnel, a crop of over-wintered spring cabbages should be available from late April onwards and should be available until the outdoor crop is ready

Overwintered cauliflower should start to head up now – as soon as the small heads start to show, make sure the plants are well watered.

Purple and White sprouting Broccoli have been good this spring and some should still be harvestable in the first part of May

For salads - over-wintered lettuce should also be ready for harvesting. Spring onion - White Lisbon can overwinter successfully although it will have a strong flavour. Of course, radishes sown under cover or outdoors will provide a crop very quickly. Sow successionally for a constant harvest.

Spinach and Swiss chard should provide a good harvest now – fresh young leaves are excellent in soups, salads, stir-fries, etc.

Asparagus should now be at its best and most productive – check the plants regularly for asparagus beetle.

Globe artichokes should have over-wintered well and should be producing their first heads

Early sowings of peas – if sown under a cloche should start to provide an early crop in late May.

Autumn sown broad beans will have started to develop good bean pods – these can be harvested and cooked like French beans though do leave lots for growing on.

Young turnips, sown under cover in early spring should now be available for harvesting.

Rhubarb this year is well ready for picking [don’t forget that the leaves are poisonous].

Lentil and Cauliflower Curry

2Tblsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion - finely chopped

2– 3 garlic cloves -finely chopped a good tsp. grated fresh ginger

2tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground turmeric

salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp chilli powder or fresh mild chilli - chopped

75g [3 oz] red lentils 150ml vegetable or chicken stock

1 medium cauliflower - cut into small florets 1 large carrot - peeled and cut into small dice

75g [3oz] fresh or frozen peas - thawed

75g [3oz] fresh French or fine beans [when in season] – washed and cut into chunks

A good handful chopped coriander

Method

· Sweat the onion in the oil in a large pan [cook without colour]. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook gently – don’t allow these to burn. [allow a little of the oil for frying the vegetables]

· Add ground coriander, cumin and turmeric and cook for a few minutes, stirring all the time.

· Meanwhile, fry the cauliflower and carrot pieces until slightly browned in a little of the measured oil.

· Wash the lentils thoroughly in a sieve or fine strainer then add them to the cooked spices - stir in the lentils well.

· Add the stock. Bring to the boil then simmer gently with the lid on for 10 mins or so.

· Add the cooked vegetables to the lentil mixture and stir in well.

· Bring the mixture back to the boil then simmer gently until the vegetables are tender.

· Add the peas and the beans if you are using them, stir well and cook for a further 4 – 5 minutes.

· Stir in the chopped coriander, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Rhubarb and Ginger Pancakes

For the pancakes

200g [7oz] plain flour

2 eggs

300ml [ ½ pint] milk

Butter for cooking

Method

· Sieve the flour into a bowl and make a well in the centre.

· Beat the eggs lightly and add the milk – beat it in well.

· Add the milk/egg mix to the flour, gradually adding in the flour at the edges of the well until it is all mixed in to make a creamy batter. Beat well.

· Leave the batter to rest and prepare the filling.

The Filling

3 good sized stalks of red rhubarb – washed, trimmed and cut into short lengths 2-3cm.

25 gm [1 oz] chopped glacé ginger

3 Tblsp sugar

1 Tblsp. brandy

Double cream - whipped

Method

· Put the pieces of rhubarb into a saucepan with the sugar and a small spoonful of water to get the cooking started.

· Cook gently until the sugar has dissolved then, simmer until the fruit is soft but still in pieces. Add the ginger and brandy.

· Drain off the excess juice and keep aside.

Making the pancakes

· Using a medium sized heavy pan – [preferably non stick] – heat a little of the butter until it is sizzling hot.

· Pour in a little of the batter, enough to cover the base of the pan thinly – [swirl the mixture around the pan to make sure it is all covered without making the pancake too thick.]

· When it is browned on the bottom, shake it loose, turn it over and brown on the other side.

· Turn the pancake out onto greaseproof paper over a damp teatowel. If you wish to keep them warm while making the rest, place on a plate over a saucepan of simmering. Water.

· Continue until all of the mixture is used up.

· Place some of the fruit onto each pancake and roll up.

· When serving pour over some of the juice and top with whipped cream.

Saturday, 4 April 2015

April on the Allotment 2015

April on the Allotment

It has been a fairly kind winter – at least where I live in the south west but, spring has been cold and very late. We are now into British Summer Time but, are still thinking Winter. I have learned from experience that it is not a good idea to get started on the season’s growing too early although my impatience often pushes me to start planting and sowing too early.

This year, fearing a cold spring I didn’t start sowing in my propagator until March. Although I have a good propagator and an excellent plant light and a poly-tunnel, there is still that uncomfortable gap between plants germinating but needing much more light than I can give them yet, I feel it is still a bit cold in my unheated poly-tunnel to move tender tomato and pepper plants to it.

However, for plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and chillies, there is little option but to sow the seeds and nurture them as best as possible as they do need a long growing season for the fruits to ripen properly.

v Maintenance around the plot – what we need to do to keep established plants healthy and pest free;

– keep the plot tidy;

- cut grass on paths;

- weeding;

- taking care of stored produce;

– tidy fruit cages;

– compost old plants or those which have finished producing.

Don’t forget that the bonfire season has now finished until November.

v Preparation and planning for the coming season -

– looking after perennial plants – probably too late for pruning, depending on where you are in the country, ensure all perennial weeds are cleared from around them, feed and manure as necessary;

- re-digging beds ready for planting out;

- dig in compost and/or well rotted manure;

- preparing seed beds;

- top–up raised beds with fresh compost or soil.

v Sowing and planting what can be sown or planted now?

o in a propagator – aubergines, courgettes, cucumbers, peppers and chillies, pumpkin and squash, tomatoes. Herbs - basil;

o under cover [in green house or ploy-tunnel] – brassicas (Brussels sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, winter cauliflower), celery, celeriac, lettuce, peppers and chillies, pumpkin and squash, rocket, runner beans, spring onions. Herbs – basil, chervil, chives, rosemary, savoury, thyme,

o outdoors – [do wait a couple of weeks for the ground to be less cold] – broad beans, beetroot, brassicas [broccoli, Brussels sprouts, summer cabbage, winter cabbage], carrots, summer cauliflower, garlic, kale, leeks, lettuce, onions, shallots, parsnips, potatoes, early peas, radish, rocket, spinach and swiss chard, spring onions, turnips.

o As bare root plants can only be safely transplanted when they are dormant, it is now probably too late in the season except in colder parts of the country where the plants have not yet started growing. If you are buying plants in pots to plant out on your allotment or in your garden, while they can be transplanted at any time, it is best to wait until the ground is less cold.

v Harvesting – many of these vegetables, which would normally become available during April, may be some weeks later this year.

o Fresh from the plot, greenhouse or poly-tunnel – early varieties of asparagus, spinach, some types of broccoli, spring cabbage/spring greens, Swiss chard, winter cabbage, winter cauliflower, kale, early lettuce, salad onions, radishes, sorrel, rhubarb, oregano, rosemary, bay-leaves and last year’s parsley plants should be growing strongly now before they start to run-to-seed.

April on the Allotment

v Maintenance around the plot – what we need to do to keep established plants healthy and pest free;

– keep the plot tidy;

- cut grass on paths;

- weeding;

- taking care of stored produce;

– tidy fruit cages;

– compost old plants or those which have finished producing.

Don’t forget that the bonfire season has now finished until November.

v Preparation and planning for the coming season -

– looking after perennial plants – probably too late for pruning, depending on where you are in the country, ensure all perennial weeds are cleared from around them, feed and manure as necessary;

- re-digging beds ready for planting out;

- dig in compost and/or well rotted manure;

- preparing seed beds;

- top–up raised beds with fresh compost or soil.

v Sowing and planting what can be sown or planted now?

o in a propagator – aubergines, courgettes, cucumbers, peppers and chillies, pumpkin and squash, tomatoes. Herbs - basil;

v Harvesting – many of these vegetables, which would normally become available during April, may be some weeks later this year.

o Autumn sown broad beans may well have now set their pods during late March or early April can be harvested as young pods and cooked and eaten like Fine Beans [albeit with a slightly ‘hairier’ texture – an excellent source of a fresh, healthy vegetable in the lean period but, do leave enough to grow on to maturity.

Asparagus and Gruyere Flan

For the pastry case

175gm [6oz] plain flour

125gm [4½ oz] butter

Pinch salt

Water to mix

Method

· Sieve the salt and flour into a bowl and rub in the butter using finger tips until it is like fine breadcrumbs.

· Add cold water to mix – approx 1 tsp for each 1 oz of flour. The mixture should start to bind together when it forms small lumps when pressed.

· Draw the mixture together to form a stiff dough – it should not be sticky.

· Mould the pastry, gently into a flat round shape on a lightly floured table then, using a floured rolling pin roll out the pastry until it is 2-3cm [1inch] wider than the width of the flan dish or tin [25cm or 10inch diameter flan dish].

· Line the greased dish carefully making sure there are no holes in the pastry.

· Trim the pastry at the top edge. Place a sheet of greaseproof paper in the bottom and put baking beans on top to stop the pastry rising.

· Bake in a hot oven 200°C No 6 gas for about 15 minutes or until the pastry has set and is partially cooked.

For the filling

1½ large bunches asparagus [ approx ½ kilo or 1 lb]

2 onions – peeled and chopped finely

5 eggs

300ml tub double cream

100ml [4 fl oz] milk

100gm [4oz] Gruyère cheese - grated

50gm [2oz] freshly grated Parmesan cheese

50gm [2oz] butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

· Wash the asparagus and remove the tough lower ends of the spears.

· Cut the asparagus into lengths about 2-3cm long [1inch] – leaving aside 8 – 10 tips about 10cm long [4 – 5 inches] to decorate the top.

· Melt the butter in a pan and sweat the onions and asparagus pieces [cook without colour]. Then put the cooked vegetables into the flan case.

· In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs and mix in the Parmesan cheese, cream and milk and season well.

· Pour this mixture over the flan. Decorate the top with asparagus pieces and sprinkle the gruyere cheese over the top.

· Bake in a moderately hot oven 190°C or No 5 gas for 25 – 30 minutes. Then reduce the heat and continue to bake until the filling has set and the top is golden brown another 15 minutes or so. Take care to not allow the pastry to burn.

· Serve hot or cold.