Summer Harvesting - Peas, Onions, Garlic

Harvesting and Storing Peas, Onions, Garlic,

It’s the end of June and we are probably more than half way through our growing season, depending on whether or not you have a heated greenhouse or even a green house or a poly tunnel – like me!

While some crops have been a total failure for me this year, others have been a spectacular success.

Peas – Talking to one of my neighbours a few days ago, she laughingly said, ‘I see you grow peas by the Mohammed method’. She went on to say that her son used the same method with similar wonderful results.

Mohammed has been gardening on our Allotments Fields since the year Dot and is arguably one of, if not the best, grower in our Allotment Association. When I was chatting to him a couple of years ago, comparing, among other (many) things he was doing so successfully compared with my miserable crops, he looked at my peas rows ( well! Very intermittent rows) and effectively said that my methods were rubbish. Yet I had followed the instructions in various vegetable growing publications.

Prepare your row ( from me – a channel about 3” ( 6 – 7cm) deep, really it’s not critical), and about 2 – 3 “ wide( 5cm ).  For the width of my plot, about 4 – 5 metres, take three packets of seed and just throw them along it (making sure all the seeds are in the channel and are reasonably evenly spaced.

Well, okay, I thought, this is worth a try, certainly Mohammed’s crops were way better than mine so, last year I tried his method in a modest way. The results were just great and I had lots of peas to freeze for the winter.

This year I thought I’d do it properly. A fellow plot holder buys seed in bulk from Tucker’s Seeds in Devon (www.edwintucker.com  their site is still under construction but phone or write for a catalogue – Google it).  I bought a kilo of Hurst Green-Shaft from him for around £4 and I sowed all of them in 4 rows across my plot. I didn’t leave enough space between the rows as I really didn’t have room but, the crop has been amazing. Already I have had about 6 buckets full of peas and when podded have filled a drawer in my freezer. I have probably harvested about half of them.

When freezing, there is no need to blanch. Just pod, pack into suitable containers –boxes or bags, bung in the freezer and enjoy all winter. The only downside – podding is quite a lengthy process – put on a good film or watch your favourite TV programmes and you won’t notice the job being done.

It’s still not too late to sow seed for a late crop.

Onions – my autumn planted onion sets have definitely exceeded my expectations this year, especially considering the long dry spell we had during April and May. I didn’t water them ( I just don’t have the energy to water everything) and I’m hoping that this will have contributed to a high dry matter in the onions and will encourage them to keep. I have, so far, tied up 5 strings of onions with probably another 2 to go. The spring sown onions are still growing and may be good – or not. The same can’t be said for my shallots which are just not worth harvesting. I planted fewer garlic this year and while they have been good, I am now wondering if I have grown enough to see me through the next winter.

I have noticed, over the last couple of years that many of my plot neighbours are reporting ‘white rot’ in their onion crops. This is a serious fungal disease which, if it appears on your crops, will prevent you from growing any of the alliums ( onion family) for many years. It doesn’t travel like blight but can be transferred on implements, boots, etc so, where you walk on you plot (or others’) you are likely to spread it.

I feel that, although my onions have been most satisfactory this year, they are the crop which shows least difference to those you buy in the supermarket. Added to that, they are cheap to buy from the supermarket and are disease free. I have therefore, decided that I won’t grow them next year. While onions may not taste any different from those in the supermarket, other members of the allium family certainly do – especially garlic and leeks.

When onions and garlic have stopped growing, the top greenery will fold over. At this point, lift them and leave lying out for the top foliage to die back/ become brown and fairly crisp. At this point you can tie them in bunches or strings and store in a cool dry place. Don’t store them when any part of the plant is still wet. As I discovered to my cost – they will rot.

Growing Perennial Herbs for the Kitchen - part 3

Perennial Herbs – Part 3

It’s actually raining so it gives me some time to catch up on writing, instead of just carrying water to my poor gasping allotment.

Many of my autumn planted onion sets have already finished growing as the steady wind last week has knocked over the leaves. Still, they have matured quite well and I have lifted many of them for drying already.

My Garlics are also looking quite good (also autumn planted). Actually, I said they are looking good but, they have ‘rust’, which means they don’t look so good above ground. This fungus is apparently, the same fungal infection which affects all members of the allium family (puccinia allii) – leeks, onions, shallots, chives and garlic. I also had this in my garlic last year though I didn’t pay much attention to it. The infection is not severe and has not spread to any of my other alliums – I have shallots and onions growing in the same bed. I grow leeks and chives elsewhere. Unfortunately, this fungus, once present is not treatable so, prevention is the only solution. Make sure all infected top growth and debris is disposed of away from your garden or plot. However, the garlic bulbs are excellent.

Don’t miss out on the ‘wet garlic’ – the garlic before the skins around the individual cloves have dried and hardened. Take off the top growth, roots and outer skin. Cut in 2 horizontally and roast – not too long, don’t let them dry out – then eat as a vegetable. Delicious! My garlics have just gone beyond this stage now so, I will have to wait until next year to enjoy it again.

When I first started growing garlic, I tried a ‘garlic lover’s collection’ which gave me a range of different types which included hard and soft necked varieties. But with some experience, I’ve discovered that Solent Wight and Purple Wight seem to do best on my land. If garlic is your thing, I suggest you try different varieties to find what is best for you. Although garlic can be planted in the spring, it is best planted in the autumn up to the end of November. When you place your seed order in early autumn the suppliers usually send out the garlic bulbs when it is the best time to plant. Divide the bulbs into the individual cloves – leave the skins on and plant them with the root side down (pointed tip up)

Although some growers recommend planting the cloves about 2 inches (5cm) deep (and some even deeper), I have found that on the heavy clay soil of my allotment fields, this is too deep and the garlic struggles to come up. I plant it slightly deeper than onions – just below the surface of the soil.

The now quite popular ‘elephant garlic’ is, although another member of the allium family, not actually garlic at all  and is more closely related to leeks. It grows in a similar way to garlic and has a mild garlic-like flavour.

Garlic makes an excellent companion plant – many bugs don’t like the smell so, it does act as a deterrent to some pests.

Although I do grow Chives – like garlic, a member of the allium family – I wouldn’t say they are the first herb I reach for when cooking. For me, their flavour is too mild, too insipid and I prefer to use spring onions or scallions in salads or mixed into mashed potato. They are easy to grow from seed and as long as you don’t eat the bulbs as well they will increase each year giving a worthwhile clump in your herb bed or in large pots at your back door which makes for easy picking when you need them – don’t forget to water them in dry weather. Keep them in the herb bed and away from the onion bed so that there is little risk of spreading onion pests and diseases. Kept healthy you can increase your supply by dividing the clump up and replanting.

One of my favourite herbs was introduced to me only a couple of years ago by a friend from Australia who stayed with me for a while and cooked some delicious meals – Tarragon (Artemisia draculculus). There are two types - Russian Tarragon and French Tarragon (which has been developed from the Russian variety).

French Tarragon is supposed to be the better culinary variety, having a better flavour and texture, although I am quite happy with either. It is quite astringent and eating raw leaves can leave your tongue feeling somewhat numb. Tarragon is one of the basic ingredients of the French Fines-Herbes and of Béarnaise Sauce. Try mixing finely chopped tarragon with salted butter, lemon juice and black pepper for a delicious garnish/accompaniment to grilled steak, or grilled chicken breast – perhaps with a bulb or two of roasted wet-garlic!

 It is not as vigorous as Russian Tarragon and will grow to a height of about 1 ft (30cm). It can’t be grown from seed, but the root clumps can be divided when it is dormant. The Russian variety will grow fairly easily from seed and like the French Tarragon the roots can be divided when dormant. It is a very vigorous plant growing up to a metre high.

Being a relation of Wormwood it can also be used as a companion plant for discouraging pests.

The leaves and stems do die back in the autumn but, this is a perennial herb, don’t throw them out. The plant will be dormant over winter and will put up new growth the following spring. When the summer plants are at their most prolific, cut off lots of the leaves, chop finely and pack into small containers for freezing. Although it will lose some of its flavour when frozen it will still add that wonderfully summery flavour to your dishes during the dark winter months.

The last perennial herb I will talk about is Sorrel. I do grow a little of this herb and like its acid sharpness in my salads. As a child and always looking for something to munch on, I would pick this and happily eat quite a lot of it. That said my friends and I probably ate a lot of stuff from our tramping around the countryside and the seashore, which I shouldn’t have though, I don’t often remember any of us being sick apart from the usual childhood illnesses and colds.

Sorrel, like rhubarb, contains oxalic acid which is poisonous. Don’t let me put you off eating it – just not in large quantities and NEVER rhubarb leaves!

Sorrel adds a very fresh, sharply crisp flavour when chopped into salads and its seeds are often included in packets of mixed salad leaves you will buy. It is also excellent added to soups and sauces served with eggs and fish.

It is easily grown from seed and is a very undemanding little herb. Do give it some space in your herb garden or in a pot at the back door.

A much better source of information on all aspects of Herbs is Jekka McVicar's book - New Book of Herbs - garden, kitchen, home. health. Do have a look at it - well worth the small amount of money.

OR click on the link for her WEBSITE - http://www.jekkasherbfarm.com/