September
on the Allotment 2015
I remember, earlier in the year discussing, with a
fellow allotment holder, our very warm and sunny spring time. He said then that
he had noticed in other years, when we had wonderful spring-times – around
April – that the summers were cool and wet. Well, until recently, although it
was not particularly wet [ in fact, when it did rain, it was too light to be of
much use to the ground or our crops] but, it has certainly been remarkably cool
and very disappointing for the school children who must now return to their
studies in the new term – I believe some have already returned in the last week
of August. I always think that it must be disheartening for them to see ads for
‘Back-to-school’ uniforms, equipment, etc. Appear almost as soon as the
beginning of their long summer break. When I was young, we had 10 weeks for our
summer holidays which was to enter into a fantasy world of freedom which, of
course, became quite boring towards the end and had us looking forward with
some excitement to the new term and new school year. When my children were
little in the Republic of Ireland, they actually had 3 months. As I remember,
we parents were delighted to see the autumn set in.
Of course, so much learning is lost in those long
holidays and when I was teaching, I ran summer schools for children who planned
to come to our school in the autumn. They were always over-subscribed [it gave
the parents a welcome break !] I digress.
In spite of the cool weather, I believe it has been
one of my most productive years [except for some brassicas – cauliflowers, Romanesco
and similar vegetables which needed so much more water]. It has been a totally
outstanding year for fruit both soft fruit and the harder autumn fruits like
apples, pears, plums. In the spring, when the fruit trees were blossoming the
weather was warm and sunny giving the bees an excellent opportunity to
pollinate the crops.
With these over abundant crops with the joy of
making jams, jellies, pickles, chutneys, etc comes the chore of too much stuff
to use and preserve. After my first four or five pickings of red and white
currants and gooseberries [and I only have 2 white currant bushes] I was happy
to leave the nets off and let the birds help themselves. Even the birds seem
replete.
Maintenance
Ø As
crops finish their harvest, remove the spent plants and compost them;
Ø Over-wintering
Harvests – brassicas – [cabbage, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts]; leeks,
parsnips, Swedes etc, clear of weeds and watch out for pests like white fly on
the brassicas [ there have been fewer of these during the dry weather but
during the wet weeks the numbers of these little pests has increased;
Ø Keep
perennial crops, asparagus, globe artichokes and fruit bushes, canes and trees
free from weeds;
Ø Keep
paths and edges tidy and cut back to prevent perennial invading the plot [and
you neighbours’ plots];
Ø As
beans, sweet peas, peas and other crops finish their harvest, lift the canes,
clean them and store them where the canes or their ends are not sitting in wet
conditions, which will rot them. Carefully looked after they should last for
several years;
Ø Crops
in poly-tunnels and greenhouses should still be good to mature and ripen for a
couple of months so, make sure you keep the plants well watered and free from
pests.
Ø As
you finish using tools, cloches and netting, ensure they are clean and store in
a safe and dry environment;
Ø Remove
top growth of tomato plants to ensure the plants put all their energy into
those trusses which are already developing. Except for small salad tomatoes –
restrict the plants to 2 – 3 trusses now
Preparation and Planning
Ø As
summer cropping plants finish their harvest, start digging these areas once
cleared, especially if you have a large plot to dig. You may find that there
will be fresh weed growth before the winter but it is better than leaving the
digging until the spring. On heavy clay soil particularly, the difference
between autumn dug and spring dug ground is significant;
Ø Prepare
beds for autumn planting perennial crops, fruit trees, bushes and canes;
Ø Prepare
ground for autumn plantings of onion, garlic and shallot sets and broad beans;
Ø Think
about ordering seeds, bulbs, sets and plants for autumn planting. Many of the
large seed house are sending out their autumn catalogues now. Write to them to
request a catalogue or find them on-line.
Sowing and Planting
§ There
is not a lot which can be successfully sown during September although some
varieties of lettuce and radish can still be sown until the end of September –
choose your varieties carefully and protect the young plants from slugs,
caterpillars and pigeons as they will be one of the few tender vegetables
around at this time of year and as the cooler conditions slow up the growth, I
find that the pests have devoured or destroyed my crop before they are large
enough for me to use.
§ You
can, of course, still transplant spring cabbages into their final growing place
– as with salad crops, it is important to protect them from the plethora of
pests which will destroy them long before you can usefully harvest them. I have
found it useful to plant some in my poly-tunnel once the summer crops have
finished [a while to go yet!] but this will give me a welcome crop of green
vegetables in springtime when little else is available.
§ In
preparation for new strawberry beds, pot up ‘runners’ from young strawberry
plants [these are much more robust than runners from old – 3years + - plants].
Make sure they are kept well watered and detach from the parent plants when the
‘runners’ are well rooted
§ Set
up new strawberry beds with rooted runners. I use a 2 metre wide meshed matting
[which allows water through but keeps the weeds down] to plant my young
strawberries through. Ensure the matting is well clamped down or high winds
will lift the matting the young plants. The method is not perfect and it is
necessary to keep an eye on slugs which will hide under the matting but, is
better that leaving the strawberry plants on open ground. Of course, you could,
like commercial growers, plant in raised troughs, a meter above ground where
you can harvest and care for, at your leisure – Hmm, now that’s a thought!
Harvesting
Ø Late
sown sweetcorn will still be available for harvesting. I have harvested mine in
the last week and will probably make relish this year. In previous years I have
preferred to freeze it as it really does freeze well off the cob, but my
freezers are full and I find that my family is quite keen on sweetcorn relish
Ø Beans
– my runner beans are still good to eat. I have grown Lady Di this year and
have been very pleased with them. It is important to keep harvesting them to
keep the young pods developing. I have far too many to use myself so I put them
on my garden wall along with other overabundant crops [like courgettes –
Zucchini] to allow neighbours and passers-by to help themselves. A stonemason,
working on a house opposite mine told me he had come prepared with a bag and
although he wasn’t so keen on the courgettes he did like the beans and some
windfall Bramleys. French beans for fresh eating are still harvestable. I have
grown a climbing purple bean – Cosse Violette. Although I don’t have too many
plants they are productive, certainly far too many for me but good to give
away. Drying French beans – Borlotto, Jack Edwards, Yin-yang, etc, are now drying
on the vines and will be ready to harvest soon. I have learned to grow only
climbing varieties as they are out of the range of our vast slug population –
anything close to the ground will be eaten. I found a source of climbing
Borlotto and discovered that they are also wonderful as fresh beans. I haven’t
started to harvest yet and I will certainly leave lots for harvesting for
drying but, if you do grow these, try them as fresh beans – yummy!
Ø Curcurbits
– winter squashes, pumpkins are beginning to mature and the skins to harden. If
possible, lift the fruits onto a piece of wood, stone, brick or similar, to
keep them off the ground to avoid slug and wet damage. They should be useable
in the kitchen now but, for storing, ensure they have dried well and can lift
from the withered plant easily [store in a cool dark place – I have had some
which have kept until May of the following year but, only a few. Check them
regularly throughout the winter and remove any which show signs of rotting]. Courgettes
[zucchini] are now coming to the end of their main harvest. My yellow
courgettes, especially, are markedly, slowing down – I can no longer be
guaranteed a crop which I have to leave on my garden wall for neighbours to
take.
Ø Tomatoes
are at their best now and I certainly have more than I can use in the odd
salad, or even a daily salad. Think about using the excess for Tomato Ketchup,
Tomato Chutney, Freezing as pulp for winter use, freezing in a salsa with other
ingredients. Outdoor tomatoes are likely to finish cropping earlier than the
indoor grown varieties.
Ø Peppers
and chillies – are now beginning to ripen. Peppers can be stored frozen as part
of a salsa, chutney or just sliced and frozen. If growing a thickly fleshed
chilli like Jalapeno, they do not dry well in our UK conditions but, they will
keep well, sliced in small pots in the freezer. Thinly fleshed chillies like
Joe’s Long can be hung up and dried very successfully and used all winter long.
Ø Potatoes
– it is likely that all Earlies and Second Earlies have long been harvested and
eaten. My late Maincrop variety of choice is Sarpo Mira which, I hope, might
see me through the winter – they have excellent flavour and cooking qualities,
are blight resistant and will store successfully through the winter. I will
start to harvest them later this month. This year I also tried Red Duke of York
and Shetland Black as trials for me. The Red Duke of York were wonderful and I
will grow them again next year. I’m not so sure about the Shetland Black – in
this a great potato year, there was nothing remarkable or impressive about it.
But, it is good to try out new stuff
Ø Brassicas
– some varieties of Brussels Sprouts, broccoli/calabrese and late cabbage are
available now. Early kale can be harvested but may be best left until winter.
Ø Early
leeks and parsnips are harvestable now.
Ø Salad
crops, of course are still excellent where we have managed to keep the pests
off.
Ø Fruit
– autumn harvesting raspberries are still available;
Apples,
depending on the variety will now be harvestable – if they come easily from the
stem they should be ready and can be stored. If you allow them to fall, the
resultant bruising will mean that they must be used immediately. Check also for
insect damage – those fruits also must be used immediately or discarded.
Pears, plums and damsons should still be ready to
harvest.
Recipes
Plum
and Almond Flan
For the fruit filling
500gm [1lb] approx ripe plums – Victoria are best
1 tsp. water
Method
·
Wipe the plums and pierce them. Place
them in a saucepan with the sugar and water over a very low heat until the
juice starts to emerge.
·
Raise the temperature to gentle
simmering point until the plums are soft and broken down.
·
Cool. Remove the stones and pour off
most of the juice and put aside.
For the rich sweet pastry
150gm [ 6oz] plain flour 50gm
[2oz] butter
For the Topping
For the Topping
100gm [4oz ] butter 50gm
[2oz] caster sugar
25 gm [1oz ] caster sugar 125gm
[5oz] ground almonds
Pinch salt 1
tsp almond essence
1 large egg -
beaten 1
Tblsp. Amaretto
2
large eggs - beaten
50gm
[2oz] self-raising flour
25gm
[1oz] toasted flaked almonds
Method
·
Make up the pastry – Rub the fat into
the flour until like fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar. Add the egg and bind
the mixture together to make a soft dough. Chill for half an hour or so. On a
floured board, shape the dough into a flat round then, roll out to fit a 25cm
[10inch] flan dish. Bake the pastry case ‘blind’ [ place greaseproof paper on top and cover with baking beans to prevent
the pastry from rising], in a hot oven 200°C or No 6 Gas for 10 – 15
minutes until the edges are golden but not browned. Remove the beans and
greaseproof paper. Cool
·
For the topping - Cream the butter and
sugar together and gradually add the eggs, essence and Amaretto. Stir in the
ground almonds and the flour.
·
To make up – Put the plums with a little
of the juice into the bottom of the flan case. Top with the almond mixture.
Sprinkle with flaked almonds and bake in moderate oven 180°C or No 4 gas for 30
– 40Minutes or until the cake topping is golden brown.
·
Serve with custard or cream.
Sweetcorn Relish
6
corncobs – remove the kernels
1 sweet red pepper – finely chopped
1
large onion – finely chopped 3 large garlic cloves –
finely chopped
1
– 2 fresh hot chilli peppers(keep the seeds in if you like it very hot)
500ml
(1pint)white vinegar
250g
(9oz) white sugar 1 –2 tsp
salt ( to taste)
1
dsp. yellow mustard seed 1 tsp mustard
powder
½
tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp turmeric
1
Tblsp cornflour – blended with a little water or a little extra vinegar
·
Put
the sugar and vinegar into a large pan over a low heat and stir until the sugar
has dissolved.
·
Add
the onion, sweetcorn kernels, red pepper, chopped chilli and garlic and simmer
gently until the vegetables are ‘transparent’ and cooked 10 minutes or so.
·
Add
the mustard seed and powder, turmeric, pepper and salt and cook for 10 -15mins.
·
Add
the blended cornflour and stir in well.
·
Bring
to the boil and boil for 4 – 5 minutes until the mixture starts to thicken.
·
Pot
up in hot, sterilised jars. Cover and label.
Sweetcorn
and Potato Bake
8 oz [225g] sweetcorn kernels – fresh, frozen or
tinned
2 lb [900gm] approx. potatoes – floury potatoes are
best – washed and peeled
1 large red onion
1 medium sweet red pepper
2 fl oz [55ml] milk
2 oz [50g] butter or 2 Tblsp rape-seed oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 medium tomatoes
6 oz [175g] grated cheddar cheese
Method
·
Prepare the potatoes, boil or steam them
then mash with the salt, pepper and milk and half of the cheese.
·
Peel and finely chop the onion and seed,
core and chop the red pepper.
·
Sweat the onions and pepper in the
butter or oil until soft – don’t allow it to burn.
·
Add the sweetcorn and mix in well. [Most
fresh sweetcorn is very tender and will cook quickly so doesn’t need prior
cooking].
·
Add the mashed potatoes and mix all the
ingredients – check seasoning.
·
Put the mixture into a greased ovenproof
dish.
·
Slice or section the tomatoes and
arrange around the edges of the dish. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.
·
Bake in a moderately hot oven until the
cheese is golden brown.
·
This is great as a lunch dish served
with a crisp salad.
Plum Cheese
This
is a recipe for and a method of using plums only when there is a glut of them.
In more lean years they are too precious to indulge in this very ‘wasteful’ product.
However, it is well worth the effort and the abundance of plums when they are
available.
Fruit
cheese is a very reduced ‘pulp’ of the fruit with sugar which can be ‘set’ into
attractive moulds and turned out to be sliced and served with bread with pate,
cheese, etc. Or I have enjoyed it with pork chops and lamb dishes.
The
cheese has a cousin which is ‘butter’ which is less reduced and can be spread
onto bread or crackers. I have not tasted it nor have I tried to make it nor have I tried
to make it.
Ingredients and Method
·
Add
a little water to several pounds / kilos of fruit – in this case plums although
you can also use damsons, black currants and other strongly flavoured fruit.
Cook over a gentle heat until the fruit is very soft
·
If
you wish, add a little spice – cinnamon, black pepper or cloves, etc
·
When
the fruit is very soft – push it through a strainer or coarse sieve to get the
pulp.
·
For
every 450kg [1pint ] of pulp add 450kg sugar [1lb sugar].
·
Over
a low heat, dissolve the sugar then bring the pulp to the boil. It is most
important that this is stirred continuously to prevent it ‘catching’ and
burning [I have done this with no trouble at all – I thought I was stirring
continuously, and had to dump the whole batch ! ].
·
As
the mixture thickens - when you can draw the wooden spoon through the mixture
and can briefly see the bottom of the pan, the ‘cheese’ is ready.
·
Spoon
it into prepared moulds or freezer containers.
·
Some
moulds should be lightly oiled to allow the ‘cheese’ to be easily decanted for
use. I have used silicon moulds which have easily allowed the moulds to be
decanted.
·
This
should keep for several months if covered and properly stored. I have not yet
tried my frozen batches but will get back on this.
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