December on the Allotment – What should we do this month?
It has been a long mild, wet autumn but, already, at
the beginning of December we have had some quite hard frosts, even in the inner
cities in the South of England. I have been reading warnings for the next three
months being very cold but, you know what…. it’s winter! I realise I also said
this last year but it wasn’t such a harsh winter after all. Although, there have been some suggestion that
we will have a white Christmas. I’m not fond of snow. I’m happy enough to waken
up on Christmas morning and see a white magical world but, after that I would
like it to go away quickly and let me get on with life!
Fortunately, most of my plot has been dug already
before it became too wet and muddy to dig. I have noticed in my heavy clay soil
that there is a huge difference in the quality and plantability of the ground
which has been autumn dug and that which must wait until spring. The rain and
frost of wintertime make such a difference. Those areas which are growing
winter crops must wait until their crops are cleared and are likely to be lumpy
and difficult to break down in the new growing season. Of course, the earlier
dug areas are already covered with weeds. I will take out all the perennial and
obstinate weeds then leave the rest to be dug in as a green manure crop. I find
this challenging as I think it looks very untidy but, my friend Pete was
horrified when I said I would remove all the weeds so, I will bow to his
greater knowledge.
Maintenance
Ø Look
after winter crops – brassicas, leeks, parsnips, etc, clear of weeds and watch
out for pests like white fly and slugs on the brassicas;
Ø If
you have not already done so, cut back asparagus ferns as they turn yellow and
compost. Remove all debris from the asparagus beds to reduce overwintering
asparagus beetles - cover the beds with a good layer of compost or well rotted manure;
Ø Wash
the insides of the spaces with detergent and water or, if you prefer with Jeyes
Fluid [try to avoid this chemical on the soil but, using this should prevent
the recurrence of algae for a couple of years]. You may find that the outside
of your greenhouse or polytunnel has been more affected by algae than the
outside [especially in a damp/wet year] and cleaning this is ‘a must’ to avoid
a reduction in the light available for your crops in the coming year;
Ø As
you finish using tools, cloches and netting, ensure they are clean and store in
a safe and dry environment;
Ø If
you have netting over fruit cages, it is advisable to remove it before winter –
particularly on the ‘roof’ as the weight of winter snow can collapse your cage;
Ø Clear
away and compost dead rhubarb leaves.
If you have not already done so, in
the milder parts of the country this is a good time to rejuvenate mature
rhubarb clumps – dig up the crowns and split them. Replant the strongest pieces.
Discard any small pieces and plant the best ones. Don’t dig up all of you old
rhubarb plants in one year or you will have nothing to harvest the following
year – the plants should be allowed to establish for a year before harvesting;
Ø Protect
crops such as winter and spring cabbages from severe frost – straw,
environmesh, horticultural fleece or netting [ netting will only be good on
fairly light frosts];
Ø Cut
back and cover globe artichoke plants before frost becomes severe. It is recommended
that they should be covered with straw but, on an exposed site, your straw may
blow away – environmesh or plant fleece will make good substitutes but, don’t
allow the fabric to rest on the plants;
Ø Put
glue bands around the trunks of fruit trees, especially apple trees to capture
moths which can damage the crop in the following season;
Ø As
fruit trees – apples and pears become dormant [ when they have lost their
leaves] it is time to prune – between November and March is usual although in
milder areas many of the trees have not yet lost their leaves and may start to
bud and flower by March. Do make sure your secateurs and loppers are good
quality and sharp to avoid crushing the branches which will allow diseases to
gain a hold.
Preparation and Planning
Ø Prepare
beds for winter planting perennial crops, fruit trees, bushes and canes;
Ø Asparagus
can be planted in autumn and I see that Dobies [of Devon] is advertising
asparagus crowns in 3 litre pots which can [they say] be harvested the
following year. Although they seem expensive if bought individually, they have
deals of buying in groups which just about makes this a feasible proposition –
why not try them in large ‘grow sacks’… like potato grow sacks in your back
yard. I haven’t tried this so, I can’t say how successful it would be.
Most of the large seed houses have
now sent out their autumn catalogues. Write to them to request a catalogue or
find them on-line
Ø Brassicas
– Brussels Sprouts, broccoli/calabrese, kale and winter cabbage
Ø Some
late main-crop potatoes and potatoes grown for Christmas harvesting
Ø Leeks
and parsnips
Ø Parsley
Taking Care of our birds
Ø There
are many people who advocate the principle that wildlife [including birds
should be self-sufficient, that we should not have to feed and water them,
provide them with shelter and nesting sites, suitable created environments.
However, it is important to remember that human beings are hugely responsible
for destroying the habitats, food sources, nesting sites and other
environmentally suitable conditions for our birds and other wildlife. I feel it
is important for us to give something back. Please forgive my rant but, for me,
my allotment is also a place I go to, to experience wildlife within my inner
city environment.
In spite of the fact that I have
cats, only one of whom is interested in or fit to chase wildlife [ She seems to
be focusing on mice at the moment!], I have an extensive bird feeding station in
my back garden. Magpies, pigeons and collared doves are the most frequent
visitors but, in spite of being considered ‘vermin’ of course, they are also
little animals trying to ‘make a living’. I have seen a few very small mice
brought into my house [well bits of them really!], who are coming into the
garden to forage the dropped foods from the birds and I am sorry that my cat is
predating on them but I’d rather that than they come into my house to become a
pest. While it took some time to encourage them in, [the birds, that is] I believe
I have now identified 20 different species.
I now have a bird nesting box with
a camera attached to my house. I acquired it too late to attract birds to next
last spring and I stupidly put in scraps of wool to help with their nesting. I
hadn’t realised that they would assume that some other bird had already claimed
it. However, in the long run it was probably good that they hadn’t nested there
as I had to have my drains replaced just below the nesting box. As the work
went on for some time I cannot imagine the birds would have found this
acceptable.
This season, I am ready and hope to
have some great shots of nesting great-tits.
It is important to be aware that in
really harsh winters it is the lack of water rather than the lack of food which
will kill most birds so do leave a source of water and replace frozen water or
break ice on water butts or ponds where possible.
And foxes in my back garden!
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