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Sunday, 20 July 2014

Barbequing with sauces, relishes and marinades



Barbeques and Barbeque Sauces

Well, I do understand that my experience in the past has left me somewhat prejudiced about barbeques. When I first did my Home Economics and catering training, eating pink or undercooked meat was a definite no! no! and my experience of barbeques was of sitting in someone’s back yard fighting with the wasps for burnt but, undercooked meat and fighting the wasps for very unimaginative salads and hugely greasy garlic bread [well maybe that was a bit later!], I can remember several occasions when I had serious sickness after casual barbeques with, probably, undercooked meat.
However, you get the picture or, maybe you don’t if you’ve never been there. I must admit I have been to some very pleasant barbeques in the last few years when I couldn’t escape the invitations. That sounds very ungrateful of me but…Please bear with me [I’m taking that spelling on advisement]
Of course, in England, even in the warm dryer south, there are not many years when we have the time to organise and embark on an actual barbeque evening with friends. Some years ago I did buy a chiminea for my back garden – it was lovely and so romantic but I have only really used it on 2 occasions.
I do accept that barbeques are the ‘in’ relaxing thing replacing the more formal dinner parties of my day. Lots of friends, lots of booze and good food to mop up the excess.
My reservations would still be around undercooked meat especially chicken and pork – though don’t let’s forget the pre-cooked rice – in salads or other dishes
Yes. You can get food poisoning from eating reheated rice. However, it's not the reheating that causes the problem but the way the rice has been stored before it was reheated.

From NHS choices siteHow does reheated rice cause food poisoning?Uncooked rice can contain spores of Bacillus cereus, a bacterium that can cause food poisoning. When the rice is cooked, the spores can survive. If the rice is left standing at room temperature, the spores can grow into bacteria. These bacteria will multiply and may produce toxins (poisons) that cause vomiting or diarrhoea. The longer cooked rice is left at room temperature, the more likely it is that the bacteria or toxins could make the rice unsafe to eat.
Symptoms of food poisoning If you eat rice that contains Bacillus cereus bacteria you may be sick and experience vomiting or diarrhoea about 1-5 hours afterwards. Symptoms are relatively mild and usually last about 24 hours.
Tips on serving rice safely
·         ideally, serve rice as soon as it has been cooked
·         if that isn't possible, cool the rice as quickly as possible (ideally within one hour)
·         keep rice in the fridge for no more than one day until reheating
·         when you reheat any rice, always check that the dish is steaming hot all the way through
·         do not reheat rice more than once’
I realise I’m being a boring old fart so, sorry about that and I also accept that barbequing is an exciting way of achieving very tasty and often quite spicy meals which I’m also a big fan of. I believe that in some countries eg. Canada, barbequing equipment and food preparation is at such a sophisticated level that very exotic Christmas dinners can be cooked on the ‘barbie’ and shared with a group of friends before setting out for a day’s skiing..
However, back to England. I’m not sure if anything could persuade me to sit out on someone’s balcony at 20 below, however tasty the meal.
Safety of meat
·         These days with pork, I understand there is little risk of being infected with tape worm but, I would still ensure that the meat is cooked well before serving. The thinner cuts are excellent – like ribs, and can often be bought from supermarkets with marinades already applied – these may be less expensive than doing your own but do check [your own marinade costs very little and a more robust rack of ribs with the shop applied marinade may well cost you a lot less.
·         With beef or lamb there appears to be no problem with serving ‘rare’ meat although do keep an eye on developments.
·         With chicken and duck – all the warnings must still be out there. I would still prefer to at least start the process in my microwave or oven and finish the cooking process on the Barbie. Salmonella is a real concern. It’s funny that I eat so much of the stuff yet I am extremely careful of how I clean, prepare and cook it. 
·         Sausages and other cured meats can also be a real concern. Ensure they are well cooked [not just burnt on the outside] before serving.
·         Fish and seafood – if coming from a reliable source and in their appropriate season are usually excellent.

Of course I’m being overly cautious – that’s me! I don’t want to see loads of people carted off to A&E with food poisoning. But, the most exciting part of barbeques is the explosion of flavour along with the company, the excitement and the party feel!

Marinades for meat are important

These usually include some source of sweetness – can be sugar, syrup, honey, molasses, maple syrup [bit expensive], etc
Some form of oil or fat – the usual suggestion is olive oil but although a healthy choice, the smoke point of olive oil is quite low so, I would not suggest it. A cheap alternative which suits most people is sunflower oil – high smoke point, low cost, quite a good substitute.
Why not try British produced – rape seed oil. As healthy as olive oil, good quality rapeseed oil is cheaper than good quality olive oil and it is excellent for cooking [having a high smoke point] – and it is produced by British farmers.
Some form of liquid and sharpness – usually a vinegar of some sort – redwine , whitewine, cider, raspberry, etc. This can be a vinegar but, can also be an alcohol. You choose!
Flavours – of course herbs, fruit and spices can give your food that extra flavour quality – try the favourite curry spices – turmeric, jeera, dhania, garlic, ginger, chilli, garam masala, coriander leaves [dhania]
Try also the Asian spices – star anise, garlic, ginger, tamarind, chilli, cardamom, cinnamon, and many more
For flavours closer to home – try garlic, chilli, parsley, thyme, tarragon, marjoram, sage, coriander – leaves and seeds
Try also fruits – lemon [ especially ….I love lemon] limes, orange, raspberries, strawberries,  blueberries, plums, apricots ] and others.
 
Barbeque Sauces

Look for flavours will overcome the smokiness of the barbeque – strong fruit, herb and spice flavours
It is good to have a sweetness – brown sugar, honey, etc are all good. Add as much as is good for you.
Experiment.
Some oil is good though not essential especially if you have an oily marinade – avoid any animal fat and remember that the smoke point of olive oil is quite low. Try British produced rape seed oil which is organic and has a high smoke point and is an equal for olive oil health wise.
As with the marinades fruits with a strong flavour – apricots, raspberries, lemons, orange and lime make good sauces. The acids in the fruits also cut through the fat in the meat. I will use rape seed oil, brushed over the meats alternately with the marinades. Tomatoes are always a good choice
Of course a tomato salsa is excellent – use your own tomatoes, herbs, chillies and peppers if you have them.
It is important to experiment and create your own recipes for marinades and sauces.

Sweetcorn Relish
6 corncobs – remove the kernels                 1 sweet red pepper – finely chopped
1 large onion – finely chopped                      3 large garlic cloves – finely chopped
1 – 2 fresh hot chilli peppers(keep the seeds in if you like it very hot)
500ml (1pint)white vinegar
250g (9oz) white sugar                                     1 –2 tsp salt ( to taste)
1 dsp. yellow mustard seed                             1 tsp mustard powder
½ tsp ground black pepper                              ½ tsp turmeric
1 Tblsp cornflour – blended with a little water or a little extra vinegar
Method
·         Put the sugar and vinegar into a large pan over a low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved.
·         Add the onion, sweetcorn kernels, red pepper, chopped chilli and garlic and simmer gently until the vegetables are ‘transparent’ and cooked 10 minutes or so.
·         Add the mustard seed and powder, turmeric, pepper and salt and cook for 10 -15mins.
·         Add the blended cornflour and stir in well.
·         Bring to the boil and boil for 4 – 5 minutes until the mixture starts to thicken.
·         Pot up in hot, sterilised jars. Cover and label.

Hot Red and Green Pepper Relish
I have developed this recipe to use up the significant quantities of half ripe peppers I have grown. I have used a mixture of bell peppers and pointed peppers. Of course you could use half green peppers and half red peppers.
10 – 12 good sized red/green peppers [washed, and chopped with seeds, cares and stems removed]
4 medium onions [peeled and chopped]
2 good sized fresh red chillies [ I’m using Joe’s Long]. Leave the seeds in if you like your relish to be hotter
1 good Tblsp salt [tablespoon]
1 ½ pts vinegar – preferably white [ brown is fine but, won’t look as good]
8 oz [175gm] granulated sugar – do add a little more if you like your pickles sweeter.
2 tsp allspice
Method
·         Wash and split the peppers – remove seeds and stems and white..ish inner parts.
·         Chop them fairly coarsely. Put the chopped peppers into a large colander over a bowl into which the colander should fit comfortably.
·         Pour boiling water over the peppers and leave to sit for 5 minutes. Drain the water off and repeat the process, allowing 10 minutes for soaking.
·         In the meantime, chop the onions and chillis and put them with the vinegar, sugar, salt and allspice into a large pan. Bring the mixture to the boil gradually allowing the sugar to dissolve.
·         Drain the peppers thoroughly and add to the vinegar mixture. Bring to the boil then simmer until the mixture has thickened and the vegetables are well cooked and blended.
·         Taste for salt and heat [ taking care as the mixture will be extremely hot] You may want to add more finely chopped chilli if you like your relishes to be very hot. Add any extra chilli before the end of the cooking process to ensure it has cooked.
·         Pot up into hot, sterilised pots. Cover, seal and label. Allow at least a couple of months before eating to allow the relish to mellow.

Rich HOT Chilli Tomato Salsa
Good sized onions – red onions are good as they are quite strong – peeled and finely chopped
1 kilo tomatoes [skinned] – choose a large meaty variety which will give lots of flesh for the effort of skinning. Alternatively, put the tomatoes through a food processor which will munch the skins, seeds and pulp.
2 red peppers – remove the stalk and seeds and finely chop
Chillies – this can depend on how you would like your salsa – if you prefer a hot salsa, you will choose chillies which are labelled ‘hot’ or ‘extra hot’ in the supermarket. Chillies like Scotch Bonnet or Bird’s Eye are at the top end of the hot chillies which are usually available on the market. If you want your dish to be particularly hot, keep the seeds in as well…. if not leave out the seeds [when you are working with these spices, do wear strong nitrile or rubber gloves. The chemicals which create the heat can also be quite corrosive, which can be very distressing if you have not protected yourself against this pain and distress.]
4 – 5 chunky garlic cloves – peeled and finely chopped
1 Tblsp. oil – I use rape seed oil [as healthy as olive but with a higher smoke point and without the strong flavour]. However, any good quality vegetable oil is good
1 good tsp. brown sugar
1 glass red wine
Good bunch of oregano – chopped, fresh parsley, finely chopped
Salt and pepper as appropriate
Method
·         Gently fry the onions but don’t allow them to brown.
·         Add the peppers, chillies and garlic and continue to cook until the vegetables are cooked but don’t allow to brown.
·         Add the tomato pulp, sugar wine and seasoning. Continue to cook gently to allow the flavours to blend and ensure all the ingredients at cooked and the liquid has reduced. If it is too dry add a little more wine.
·         Add the chopped herbs and continue to cook for another minute – serve with barbeque, hot bread, etc.

Fruity Barbeque Sauces – smooth

Apricot barbeque sauce
1 punnet fresh ripe apricots [a pot of apricot jam can also be used successfully but if you use jam, reduce the amount of sugar]
2 large meaty tomatoes – skinned and chopped
1 medium onion – peeled and finely chopped
240ml [½pint] white wine vinegar
150 ml [¼ pint] white wine
3- 4 chunky cloves of garlic – peeled and chopped
Good dash Tabasco Sauce
Seasoning as required
1 tsp whole grain mustard
200gm [7oz] brown sugar[reduce this amount if using apricot jam – try half the amount then taste for your preference]
Method
·         Put all of the ingredients into a large pan and bring to the boil.
·         Simmer until all of the ingredients have cooked.
·         Taste – add more seasoning, sugar or Tabasco if required
·         When cool sieve or put the mixture through a blender.
·         This sauce should keep, covered in a fridge for up to a week but, is best served fresh.

Plum barbeque sauce
1 punnet of plums [though if picking from your garden or allotment allow 8 – 10] – stoned and chopped
1 – 2 shallots – peeled and finely chopped
3 chunky cloves garlic – peeled and finely chopped
½ tsp ground allspice
2 Tblsp brown sugar
60 ml. [2 fl oz] red wine vinegar) but more if you like
60 ml. [2 fl oz ]cognac                )       
Seasoning
1 small medium to hot chilli – seeded and finely chopped
Method
·         Put all the ingredients into  a largish pan and cook gently until all the ingredients are soft and well cooked.
·         Check the seasoning and spicyness – add a little cayenne if more ‘heat’ required, more salt and pepper if needed.
·         Put the mixture through a chinois or sieve or a blender to give a smooth sauce.
·         If this is being served to children, the alcohol will be cooked off during the cooking process.

Raspberry Barbeque Sauce
2 good sized shallots – peeled and finely chopped
2 good sized punnets raspberries [ the size of punnets will depend on where you are buying them. If you are picking in your garden or on your allotment, allow 225gm or 8oz [or more if you have them! Go mad and allow some for decoration and for puddings as well].
 3 – 4 chunky garlic cloves – peeled and finely chopped

Oil for cooking – I use rapeseed –not as strongly flavoured as olive and has a much higher smoke point
3 Tblsp soft brown sugar
150ml [ ¼ pt]  red wine
1 Tblsp balsamic vinegar
1 orange – zest and juice
Seasoning
Method
·         In a large pan, gently sweat the shallots and garlic in the oil.
·         Add the raspberries and orange zest and cook gently until all the fruit is well broken down.
·         Add the sugar, seasoning, wine, vinegar and orange juice.
·         Cook gently until the ingredients flavour’s have combined – check for sweetness and seasoning
·         Put the sauce through a sieve or chinois to remove all the fruit seeds.

Of course there are lots of store based barbeque sauces and marinades available but is it not so much more exciting to create you own especially if you are growing your own ingredients.

Saturday, 12 July 2014

The Pickling Season



The Pickling Season

Of course, as summer progresses so do the pickling opportunities on our allotments. I find, on my allotment, that little in the way of maintenance – weeding, strimming, composting, tidying, etc is being done [although I do find time to water my poly-tunnel]. I go to my plot early to harvest then, take the crops home to process for winter supplies – jams, jellies, pickles, chutneys, frozen foods.
This has been a bumper year, so far. Especially for soft fruits, peas, broad beans, carrots, beetroot and early potatoes. French and runner beans are looking good for a heavy crop although I see there is a plague of blackfly on my runner beans. I won’t spray them. I have two teepees of them and think I will have more than I can use although I hate to see the destruction the blackfly cause, I am reluctant to use chemicals where I don’t need to.
I have just finished harvesting my pea plot – Hurst Green Shaft – wonderful variety and have the advantage of all maturing at more-or-less the same time. I have taken 4 buckets full from my four ridges from 4 packets of peas. Although it is time-consuming to pod them it is well worth the effort [I don’t blanche them. I just put them into suitable tubs or sealable bags and freeze them]. In previous years this harvest has provided me with peas over the whole winter and spring seasons
From July onwards our crops will mature and will demand that we do something with them. I can’t use all the crops that I produce but my family takes a lot of my produce and are starting now to put in their orders of what they would like. When I still have stuff over and above my needs I put it out on my garden wall inviting neighbours and passersby to help themselves – the stuff always goes.
Last autumn I was somewhat amused when I decided to ‘share’ my very bountiful pumpkin harvest. I don’t




grow gigantic pumpkins or even those suitable for Hallowe’en lanterns. I grow them to eat. However, I thought that many people might not be aware of the possible culinary uses for them and I prepared a recipe sheet of which I printed off several copies and put, in a plastic wallet, on my garden wall along with the pumpkins. An hour later, the recipe sheets had gone but the pumpkins hadn’t ! It took another few hours for all the pumpkins to go ! Whatever!
Apart from all the jams and jellies I have been making – do try the chilli jellies [if you like hot, spicy condiments], I also now have silver skin onions, beetroot, beans, cucumbers/gherkins and coming soon I will have tomatoes.
I do use my own chillies as far as possible[Joes Long] although I will buy in some very hot chillies – Scots Bonnet and Birds Eye to pep up my jellies [these chillies are VERY hot so, if you are not so keen on very hot, use another variety of chilli].

Sweet Pickled Beetroot
Allow approx. 6 – 8 medium beetroots [don’t allow them to become too big as they will become quite woody]
Approx. 1 litre vinegar –malt vinegar is fine though, of course, if you want a more refined and expensive  pickle use a wine vinegar
Pickling spices – a tsp of whole cloves, a stick of cinnamon bark, a dsp.mixed pepper seed – green, black, red, a tsp whole allspice, 2 – 3 dried red chillies[fresh if available]]
90 gm [3oz ] granulated sugar
Method
·         Wash beetroots without breaking the roots or tops as the roots will bleed in the cooking process.
·         Steam or boil until the roots are soft – use a stainless steel knife to check – it will take an hour plus, depending on the size or age of the roots. If you use a steamer it will take much less time but do keep an eye on the time.
·         Prepare the vinegar – white vinegar is good but, not necessary as it is more expensive and can be harder to get hold of. Malt vinegar is fine – I use the cheapest I can get hold of. In a large saucepan add the spices and sugar. Bring to the boil then simmer for a few minutes to allow the spices to infuse
·         When the beetroot is cooked – check with a stainless steel knife or a skewer, take off the  heat, drain and cover with cold water.
·         When the roots are cool, peel them [the skins should shuck off easily], and cut into largish cubes.
·         Pack into sterilised jars and cover with the spiced vinegar – using a skewer, make sure all the air bubbles are released.
·         Cover and store appropriately.
·         Pickled beetroot does not store as well as many other vegetables so do try to use within two to three months.

Pickling onions and shallots
I’ve used this general method for pickling shallots, gherkins/small cucumbers, cauliflower florets, silver-skinned onions or a mixture of these to give mixed pickle. Don’t use vegetables which are stale or have blemishes.
When peeling onions and shallots it is really advisable to wear rubber gloves (onion skins are an excellent dye for wool, etc and will also dye your hands – the stain lasts for days!) Do use stainless steel knives for peeling and cutting as carbon steel knives will leave black marks on the vegetables.
When I have prepared the vegetables I usually soak them in brine (salt and water) – 4 pints – 4oz salt (2 litres – 100gm approx). You will need enough brine to completely cover the vegetables. Leave them to soak for 24 hours in a non-metal container. Drain and rinse well or your pickles may be too salty.
Prepare pickling vinegar:-
It is usually suggested that white vinegar is used for pickling as it gives a much fresher colour. However, as I do a lot of pickling and malt vinegar is so much cheaper that is what I usually use – it makes no difference to the flavour. Buying already prepared pickling vinegar is expensive and does not allow you to introduce the herbs and spices you might prefer. However, it is already prepared and easy to use.
I will usually prepare a litre (2 pints) at a time and use as needed. To the vinegar I will add whole peppercorns, whole allspice, whole green and red peppercorns - when I can get them, a small piece of cinnamon bark, a few red chillies (you can use dried ones if fresh ones are not ready), fennel seed, yellow mustard seed. You can, of course use as much spice as will suit your taste and I like my pickles to be quite spicy and hot but, a tablespoonful of spices is a reasonable amount for this quantity of vinegar.
Do experiment with the spices and add Indian, West Indian or Oriental if that is your preference.
Bring the vinegar and spices to the boil and simmer gently for 5 – 10 minutes to develop the flavours. You can add a couple of teaspoons of sugar if you like your pickles to be less sharp.
Allow the vinegar to cool.
When the vegetable have been well drained, pack them into suitable jars for preserving – lidded jampots, Kilner jars or similar. Pour the cold spiced vinegar over the vegetables until well covered. Seal and label.
Allow your pickles to mature for a few weeks (4 – 5 or so), before eating. Enjoy!
Piccalilli – the Queen of pickles
If you like pickles this is definitely the most popular one – and how excellent for using the glut of different vegetables in summer/autumn.  You will need a good selection but, use what you have on the allotment, try to avoid going to the shops for what you feel might be missing.( tender young runner beans and French beans, young marrow or courgettes, green tomatoes ( though I haven’t tried these in piccalilli), small cucumber, cauliflower, small onions or shallots( if the shallots are too large you will need to cut then in ½s or ¼s).
This recipe might seem like a lot of effort, but it is so worth the trouble
You will need a brine (salt and water)solution – allow 50g(2oz) for each 600ml(1 pint) water. Ensure the salt is completely dissolved. You will need sufficient brine to cover the vegetables in a basin.
Increase or decrease the following ingredients in proportion according to what you have available:
900g (2 lb) mixed vegetables   - small onions, cauliflower, beans [ French or runner] , marrows or courgettes, peppers and even cabbage [red would be good] .
Brine – enough to cover the vegetables
Spiced vinegar: - for this quantity allow approx 600ml or 1 pt spiced vinegar
Use preferably white vinegar. Ordinary brown vinegar, although fine for flavour and cheaper, will affect the colour of your pickle. Simmer the vinegar with a selection of spices of your choice ( eg. mixed pepper corns, pimento, whole coriander, dried red chillies, a few bay leaves, mustard seeds, etc). Simmer -  ( gently) the spices in the vinegar for 15 minutes or so, then strain.
Sauce: -
25g/ 1 oz plain flour                            1 tblsp.  Mustard powder
½ tblsp turmeric                                   2 tsp. Ground ginger
Vinegar to mix                                     600ml / 1 pint spiced vinegar ( as above)
1.      Prepare the vegetables ( cut into small pieces, about 1-1.5cm, ½inch size), weigh them – so you know how much sauce to prepare and put into the prepared brine solution – leave for 24 hours.
2.      Prepare the sauce – mix the flour, mustard powder, turmeric and mixing vinegar in a large basin, to make a soft paste. Gradually add the strained spiced vinegar, stirring frequently to ensure there are no lumps.
3.      Return the sauce mix to a large saucepan or preserving pan and simmer over a low heat until it coats the back of a wooden spoon ( reasonably  thickly). Stir frequently to ensure there are no lumps.
4.      Drain the vegetables well, but don’t rinse in cold water.
5.      Add the vegetable to the mustard sauce and gradually bring to the boil
6.      Boil for about 1 -2 minutes ( avoid cooking the vegetables)
7.      Pour/spoon into hot, sterilised jars and seal.
Leave for a few weeks before eating to allow it to mature      

Hot Sweet Cucumber Relish
Like so many other vegetables in late summer, we wonder what to do with the glut. It doesn’t take too many cucumber plants to have too many cucumbers. Try this recipe as a way of using and preserving them.
Ingredients
1 kg cucumbers ( 2 lb) – don’t let them get too big or they will be full of seeds
1 kg onions ( 2 lb)
1 cooking apple
600ml white vinegar (1 pint)
3–4 red chillies(I have used Joe’s Long, use a medium hot chilli, but take care if for children)
500gm sugar ( 1 lb) – I used white sugar, but soft brown sugar will ‘warm’ the colour of the relish
2 tsp salt                                                          1 tsp allspice
½ tsp ground cloves                                         1 tsp turmeric
¼ tsp mustard powder                                      ¼ tsp ground mixed peppers( black, green, red)
Method
1.      Top and tail the cucumbers and remove the skin – cut into small cubes - ¼ cm- ish. If necessary, remove the seeds – if the seeds are still soft, you can leave them in.
2.      Peel the onions and chop finely – similar size to the cucumber.
3.      Peel and core the cooking apple and cut into fine slices.
4.      Cut the red chillies into small pieces – if you don’t want the relish to be too hot, leave the seeds out, or leave some of the seeds out. For a hotter relish add more chillies.
5.      Put the chopped cucumbers, onions, apples and chillies into a large pan or preserving pan with the vinegar and gently simmer until all the vegetables are cooked through – approx. 30 mins.
6.      Prepare the jars/ bottles – wash well and sterilise – put in a warm oven - 100ÂșC for 15mins.
7.      Add the sugar and stir until dissolved.
8.      Add the spices and salt to taste, add more salt if necessary.
9.      Simmer gently until the relish thickens – remember, when cool it will be thicker. Stir occasionally.
10.  Pour into the hot sterilised jars and seal immediately. Label.

Sweetcorn Relish
6 corncobs – remove the kernels                 1 sweet red pepper – finely chopped
1 large onion – finely chopped                      3 large garlic cloves – finely chopped
1 – 2 fresh hot chilli peppers(keep the seeds in if you like it very hot)
500ml (1pint)white vinegar
250g (9oz) white sugar                                     1 –2 tsp salt ( to taste)
1 dsp. yellow mustard seed                             1 tsp mustard powder
½ tsp ground black pepper                              ½ tsp turmeric
1 Tblsp cornflour – blended with a little water or a little extra vinegar
Method
·         Put the sugar and vinegar into a large pan over a low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved.
·         Add the onion, sweetcorn kernels, red pepper, chopped chilli and garlic and simmer gently until the vegetables are ‘transparent’ and cooked 10 minutes or so.
·         Add the mustard seed and powder, turmeric, pepper and salt and cook for 10 -15mins.
·         Add the blended cornflour and stir in well.
·         Bring to the boil and boil for 4 – 5 minutes until the mixture starts to thicken.
·         Pot up in hot, sterilised jars. Cover and label.