June
on the Allotment
May this year has been
disappointing wet and cool although at one stage earlier in the month it was
too dry – are we ever satisfied. I do start to whinge a bit when I have to
carry water to seed beds and newly
transplanted young plants. However, an old proverb says that – A wet and windy
May will fill the barns with corn and hay – it is not helpful for farmers and
growers if the weather is too dry in May.
Now in June, I am hopeful of some
warm, sunny weather. The mild early spring started our crops very well and
birds started nesting quite early but, we now need some heat to encourage
growth.
Maintenance
- around the plot and in greenhouses or
poly-tunnels –
ü Birds
are always a problem though, thankfully, not indoors. Netting brassica plants
is probably essential. I have also found it necessary to put nets over peas and
carrots. Where I was slow to do this I have found my excellent emerging crop of
carrots [at the first true leaf stage] has been completely consumed. There are
no slug trails so I’m assuming pigeons are the guilty parties.
ü Berries,
particularly gooseberries, are especially susceptible to harvesting by
blackbirds. They also enjoy redcurrants and whitecurrants. I have noticed that
some of my redcdurrant bushes have already been stripped of their fruit even
though the fruits are still green. I have found, over the years that blackbirds
will take the ripe [red] sides out of ripening strawberries and will harvest
the odd raspberry. Although I have avoided netting my strawberries in previous
years I have, this year netted my strawberries.
ü Slugs
and snails are not so much of a problem in Green houses and poly-tunnels but do
keep as lookout for them just in case. They can be quite a serious problem under
cloches and in cold frames and a major issue on outdoor plants, especially
brassicas. Do keep an eye on their activity – slug traps, pellets, etc are
useful though, they can also be quite a pest underground with root crops and
potatoes.
ü Watch,
also, for red spider mite on indoor plants – they like dry warm conditions and
can take over and destroy your indoor aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers
and chilli plants. The leaves of affected plants will take on a mottled
unhealthy appearance. On closer inspection you will see webs, mostly on the
backs of leaves and when the infestation is severe, between leaves and stems
[if the infestation reaches this level, it is best to dig up and remove the
infected plants – keeping a close eye on nearby plants for similar infection].
ü Carrot
Root Fly – an ongoing problem in the UK for carrot crops. When thinning rows of
carrots disturb the ground as little as possible and dispose of the thinning
well away from your carrot beds
ü By
June you should finish harvesting asparagus We should now allow the spears to
develop into ferns to encourage strong growth in the crowns next year. Watch
out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are
seen.
ü Aphids
- particularly on broad beans, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all
weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants [especially
red ants which seem to be more destructive and quicker to bite than their black
ant cousins] – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they
encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them.
ü Earth
up main-crop potatoes as they grow.
ü Pinch
out the side shoots of cordon tomato plants as they appear [not from bush
tomatoes], on plants already growing on in green houses and poly-tunnels. Stake
or tie up the plants as they develop to keep them upright.
ü Keep
the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from
encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.
ü Weeding
– keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care
to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the
hoed weeds will often re-root].
ü Pinch
out the tender top growth of broad beans as soon as the first few rows of pods
set at the bottom of the plants to deter black-fly [aphids].
Preparation and
planning
ü Re-dig
beds to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. As far possible,
maintain the plan you created over the winter for good crop rotation –
sometimes this does not work out as planned – weather, timing and condition of
the soil can prevent implementation of excellent plans. Avoid planting root
crops where you have added manure or lime.
ü In
June you can still sow many seeds outdoors and preparation of the seed beds is
important for good germination. [If the ground is too hard in a dry month to
create a fine tilth, try watering the ground well, leave for a short time then
water again. If this does not break down unyielding ground, create a furrow 4 –
6inches [10 – 15cm] deep and fill this with compost [I use bought-in compost
when necessary]. Sow the seeds into this as normal. The seeds and young plants
may well need lots of watering in dry weather to ensure germinating and growing
on. The addition of the compost should help the quality of the ground for the
next crop when dug in
ü When
transplanting brassicas, it is a good idea to add a sprinkling of lime around
each plant if you know your soil is too acid. Don’t add manure at the same time
as lime but try to dig in good, well-rotted manure earlier in the season when
digging the beds.
·
Sowing and planting
-
under cover [in green house or poly-tunnel]
Herbs – basil can still be sown to have successional pots of the herb.
Tomatoes, peppers, chillies, cucumbers, aubergines can still be transplanted
into ground indoors or into large pots.
– outdoors – You can still sow – French beans [some
varieties are better sown a bit later. Read the instructions from the seed
supplier], runner beans, beetroots [although you may have sown earlier in the
season, if you like this crop you can continue to sow for a couple of months:-
-
Beans – French beans and runner beans
can be transplanted outdoors;
-
This is still a good time for sowing
brassicas outdoors, try – Broccoli/calabrese, spring cabbage for next year,
winter cauliflower and kale.
-
Of course, carrots can be sown until the
end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I
have had more success with earlier sown carrots.
-
Courgettes – if you have good, kind
conditions, can now be sown outdoors although I have always propagated my
seedlings and grown then on indoors to plant out in June. In a good year, with
predictably warm forecasts do try for an earlier crop but, I would still prefer
to wait.
-
Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable
whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from
May until July outdoors;
-
Peas can be sown for successional crops
until the end of June. Although I have sown some developed for late sowing in
late July. While this did extend my harvesting time, the crops were not
amazing;
-
Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket,
spring onions, can all be sown outdoors.
-
You
can still transplant outdoors – aubergines [only in warmer, sheltered areas], French and runner beans, Brassicas – broccoli
and calabrese, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, kale], celery,
celeriac, courgettes, outdoor cucumbers, leeks, peppers and chillies[only in
warmer, sheltered areas], pumpkins and squashes, outdoor tomatoes.
In
all cases, harden the plants off well before planting out and do consider the
weather. The young plants should be well watered into their final growing spot
and continue to water until the plants have established – if necessary.
·
Harvesting –
By now we should be coming to the end of the ‘Lean time’. For some time, the
only crops available for harvesting have been asparagus, spring cabbage,
lettuce and rhubarb and, of course, my favourite herb, parsley which is
wonderful this year. Overwintered cauliflower should be ready now, if it has
survived the winter. Spinach and Swiss chard should provide a good harvest now
– fresh young leaves are excellent in soups, salads, stir-fries, etc.
- Early potatoes should now be
ready for harvesting now – I see that my ‘Epicure’ have already got their
flowers on and in the first week of June I will begin to harvest them.
- I have now been harvesting globe
artichokes for a few weeks, the purple ones especially have been outstanding.
The plants have overwintered very well in spite of minimal protection and no
cutting back.
Early sowings of peas – if sown
under a cloche should start to provide a crop now.
Over wintered onions and garlic
will now finish their growth during the month although there is no sign yet of
die-back– look out for yellowing leaves and some withering. In onions, the
leaves will fold over. Lift them and set them on the ground, in dry weather or
on a rack, to allow them to dry out before storing in a cool dry place.
Young turnips, sown under cover in
early spring should now be available for harvesting.
Rhubarb should now be at its best
[don’t forget that the leaves are poisonous].
Soft fruit - redcurrants,
blackcurrants and white currants as well as gooseberries, early varieties of
raspberry and strawberries should now be ripening. Keep them protected from
birds – they do seem to love redcurrants and gooseberries particularly. If you
have lots of fruit, make sure you have containers for freezing and lots of
jam-pots ready for preserving. If you still have produce in your freezer from
last year, now is the time to use it up so that you have space for the new
crops.
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