Preparing for winter 2 - broad beans, globe artichokes, shallots, garlic, digging

Preparing for Winter

I have not written anything for a few weeks as I have had some family issues to deal with. In any case, it’s that time of year when everything slows down as we prepare our plots and gardens for winter.

As I’ve cleared crops I’ve been digging so that the winter frosts can help break down my heavy clay soil. There is a lot of digging to do and as the weather gets colder and wetter, it is more difficult to find opportunities to go digging so, I try to dig a bit every time I am at my plot and dig a bit between other jobs – I was going to say ‘chores’ but, that sounds as though it is work I don’t enjoy. I think the only job which really is a chore is carrying endless containers of water to my poly-tunnel or to young un-established plants in dry weather. Although my heavy clay soil is very fertile, it is extremely wet and sticky in prolonged wet spells but, dries out very quickly. This allows me about three to four days when the ground is diggable between the heavy mud and the rock-hard clay which splits open in lengthy dry spells.

Unfortunately, that happened this year when young plants like brassicas should have been planted out and beans should have been sown. So, this has been a poor year for those crops – not a total failure, just hard work achieving pretty low production. As I, in common with most other allotment gardeners, grow far too many beans anyway, it wasn’t a disaster for them but, I am sorry that my brassicas have been a bit miserable as they are – by a long way – my favourite group of vegetables.

My potatoes have been lifted, dried and stored a good six to eight weeks ago but, (I am always afraid of blight) I lift them as soon as they are ready – late August, if possible. This has the advantage of providing warm enough weather to dry the potatoes quickly before I store them. If you have not lifted yours yet, make sure you do so before the frost hits as it will destroy your crop. I was in Northern Ireland last week and was surprised to see many fields in prime potato producing country with crops still in the ground. Clearly the haulms had not been removed and had been allowed to die back naturally. I guess the farmers are using fairly heavy duty chemicals to protect their crops from blight, though not from the frost, and it will hit them before it attacks my plot! Though thinking of the chemicals makes me glad I produce my own. Thinking of storing potatoes – make sure they are dry, remove as much of the clay attached to them as possible. Store in a cool, frost free place [garage, attic room, unheated room in your house, frost-free shed – I stored a bag in my shed last year but, when I went back to get them in January they has been frosted – spongy, wet and smelly!]. Store in cardboard boxes, hessian sacks or paper potato sacks – not plastic as they will rot - and make sure they are protected from light. This all sounds like a pain but, really – put them in a cardboard box in the corner of an unheated room and cover with several sheets of newspaper – bingo! Of course, if you have several tons..........!

I’ve already done my main seed order for this year. I do love, on a wet miserable day in autumn, poring over this year’s seed catalogues and working out what I will grow next year. I think it is one of my favourite jobs. Of course, as always, I’ve ordered too many different beans, too many brassicas and too many different lettuces and probably several others. Some of these will keep so it doesn’t matter but, when my order arrived, I realised I’d forgotten something. It’s the same every year. I forget to order wallflower seeds. I always grow them in a seedbed on my plot then bring them home for my garden and my neighbour’s garden. I will just have to place another order.

I have already planted/sown my shallots and garlics this autumn. My shallot harvest was poor this year, although onions were amazing but, I will try again, this time in a raised bed. This year I didn’t grow enough garlic though that might have been because I ate so many early in the season as wet garlic and, wanting to introduce others to this delight, I gave a lot away. I hope I have planted enough for next year. I bought only two varieties – those which have done best on my plot – Solent White and Purple Wight. These two have been the best producers on my plot over the last few years. I have planted the cloves from six bulbs of each. I’m hoping this will be enough.

I have also started my autumn broad beans – Aquadulce Claudia. As, in the past, I’ve had little success with planting straight into the ground (no more than 25-30% germination), I have taken to chitting or sprouting the beans first (set out on wet paper – make sure it stays wet! Within a week or less they should have sprouted). Then I pot up those beans which sprout. I have now put these into my poly-tunnel and will keep them there until the plants are about 20cm ( 3-4 inches high). As the poly-tunnel is cold it is possible to plant them out to a prepared bed during November. I will cover them with fleece to keep the worst of the frost off them. This method has been hugely successful in the past, providing me with heavy crops of excellent beans early in the season which miss the black-fly plague. However, last winter’s bitterly cold weather did affect my crops. I will grow by the same method again but, I plan to sow some in the spring as well, just to make sure I have a crop. I do like my broad beans.

As I’ve been ranting on somewhat about last year’s bitterly cold weather I will also say that I’ve already cut back my globe artichokes and covered them for the winter. Last year’s very harsh weather destroyed 50% of my established bed. I am actually surprised that 50% survived! This year I have taken the painful step of cutting back strong lush growth so that I can cover it with fleece. I do hope it works. I’ve not done this before, although really, all the advice books on gardening suggest that you should do this and cover with straw. – I don’t have a source of straw so, fleece must suffice!.

Growing Perennial Herbs for the Kitchen - part 3

Perennial Herbs – Part 3

It’s actually raining so it gives me some time to catch up on writing, instead of just carrying water to my poor gasping allotment.

Many of my autumn planted onion sets have already finished growing as the steady wind last week has knocked over the leaves. Still, they have matured quite well and I have lifted many of them for drying already.

My Garlics are also looking quite good (also autumn planted). Actually, I said they are looking good but, they have ‘rust’, which means they don’t look so good above ground. This fungus is apparently, the same fungal infection which affects all members of the allium family (puccinia allii) – leeks, onions, shallots, chives and garlic. I also had this in my garlic last year though I didn’t pay much attention to it. The infection is not severe and has not spread to any of my other alliums – I have shallots and onions growing in the same bed. I grow leeks and chives elsewhere. Unfortunately, this fungus, once present is not treatable so, prevention is the only solution. Make sure all infected top growth and debris is disposed of away from your garden or plot. However, the garlic bulbs are excellent.

Don’t miss out on the ‘wet garlic’ – the garlic before the skins around the individual cloves have dried and hardened. Take off the top growth, roots and outer skin. Cut in 2 horizontally and roast – not too long, don’t let them dry out – then eat as a vegetable. Delicious! My garlics have just gone beyond this stage now so, I will have to wait until next year to enjoy it again.

When I first started growing garlic, I tried a ‘garlic lover’s collection’ which gave me a range of different types which included hard and soft necked varieties. But with some experience, I’ve discovered that Solent Wight and Purple Wight seem to do best on my land. If garlic is your thing, I suggest you try different varieties to find what is best for you. Although garlic can be planted in the spring, it is best planted in the autumn up to the end of November. When you place your seed order in early autumn the suppliers usually send out the garlic bulbs when it is the best time to plant. Divide the bulbs into the individual cloves – leave the skins on and plant them with the root side down (pointed tip up)

Although some growers recommend planting the cloves about 2 inches (5cm) deep (and some even deeper), I have found that on the heavy clay soil of my allotment fields, this is too deep and the garlic struggles to come up. I plant it slightly deeper than onions – just below the surface of the soil.

The now quite popular ‘elephant garlic’ is, although another member of the allium family, not actually garlic at all  and is more closely related to leeks. It grows in a similar way to garlic and has a mild garlic-like flavour.

Garlic makes an excellent companion plant – many bugs don’t like the smell so, it does act as a deterrent to some pests.

Although I do grow Chives – like garlic, a member of the allium family – I wouldn’t say they are the first herb I reach for when cooking. For me, their flavour is too mild, too insipid and I prefer to use spring onions or scallions in salads or mixed into mashed potato. They are easy to grow from seed and as long as you don’t eat the bulbs as well they will increase each year giving a worthwhile clump in your herb bed or in large pots at your back door which makes for easy picking when you need them – don’t forget to water them in dry weather. Keep them in the herb bed and away from the onion bed so that there is little risk of spreading onion pests and diseases. Kept healthy you can increase your supply by dividing the clump up and replanting.

One of my favourite herbs was introduced to me only a couple of years ago by a friend from Australia who stayed with me for a while and cooked some delicious meals – Tarragon (Artemisia draculculus). There are two types - Russian Tarragon and French Tarragon (which has been developed from the Russian variety).

French Tarragon is supposed to be the better culinary variety, having a better flavour and texture, although I am quite happy with either. It is quite astringent and eating raw leaves can leave your tongue feeling somewhat numb. Tarragon is one of the basic ingredients of the French Fines-Herbes and of Béarnaise Sauce. Try mixing finely chopped tarragon with salted butter, lemon juice and black pepper for a delicious garnish/accompaniment to grilled steak, or grilled chicken breast – perhaps with a bulb or two of roasted wet-garlic!

 It is not as vigorous as Russian Tarragon and will grow to a height of about 1 ft (30cm). It can’t be grown from seed, but the root clumps can be divided when it is dormant. The Russian variety will grow fairly easily from seed and like the French Tarragon the roots can be divided when dormant. It is a very vigorous plant growing up to a metre high.

Being a relation of Wormwood it can also be used as a companion plant for discouraging pests.

The leaves and stems do die back in the autumn but, this is a perennial herb, don’t throw them out. The plant will be dormant over winter and will put up new growth the following spring. When the summer plants are at their most prolific, cut off lots of the leaves, chop finely and pack into small containers for freezing. Although it will lose some of its flavour when frozen it will still add that wonderfully summery flavour to your dishes during the dark winter months.

The last perennial herb I will talk about is Sorrel. I do grow a little of this herb and like its acid sharpness in my salads. As a child and always looking for something to munch on, I would pick this and happily eat quite a lot of it. That said my friends and I probably ate a lot of stuff from our tramping around the countryside and the seashore, which I shouldn’t have though, I don’t often remember any of us being sick apart from the usual childhood illnesses and colds.

Sorrel, like rhubarb, contains oxalic acid which is poisonous. Don’t let me put you off eating it – just not in large quantities and NEVER rhubarb leaves!

Sorrel adds a very fresh, sharply crisp flavour when chopped into salads and its seeds are often included in packets of mixed salad leaves you will buy. It is also excellent added to soups and sauces served with eggs and fish.

It is easily grown from seed and is a very undemanding little herb. Do give it some space in your herb garden or in a pot at the back door.

A much better source of information on all aspects of Herbs is Jekka McVicar's book - New Book of Herbs - garden, kitchen, home. health. Do have a look at it - well worth the small amount of money.

OR click on the link for her WEBSITE - http://www.jekkasherbfarm.com/

Having a New Plot

Taking Over a New Plot

I have written about this before, when I first started writing my Blog but, at this time of year many allotment associations are carrying out annual plot inspections, in part so that prizes can be awarded to be best gardeners but, also to see who has not cultivated their plots. In our Allotment Association we give most of our prizes to newcomers – to plot holders who have had their plots for just one year. In that way everyone has a chance to win a prize. If we gave the main prize to the best plot, chances are it would always go to the same expert gardener.

In our Association, which has six separate fields, the Field Representatives carry out regular inspections to see who is doing really well and who is not doing the business at all. It is a pity that plot holders who no longer have the time nor the inclination, for whatever reason, don’t tell their Field Rep. or a member of the committee that they don’t or can’t cultivate their plot any longer so that it can be re-let to someone who has been on the waiting list for years and is desperate to have the chance. Under those circumstances the plot is probably totally derelict – covered in brambles, couch grass and other very invasive weeds. My son, who, after waiting for about two years for a plot in Newcastle, was rewarded with a beautifully maintained half plot, with a greenhouse. How lucky was he? His predecessor no longer felt he could work his plot but left it immaculate for the next person – my son.And that is how it should be.

This is not the best time of year to be allocated a plot but, the year is definitely not wasted. It has been very dry this year in many parts of the country, especially in the south and east. This has made tilling the land quite difficult. In Bristol, where I have my plot, we have heavy clay soil. It is very fertile though inclined to being quite acid. The soil and conditions are brilliant for many important crops and I feel very privileged to have my plot. However, when it is dry, the ground splits open and can’t be dug. It is like digging bricks. Just lately we have had a little rain, enough to be able to till the ground, plant out gasping potted seedlings and do other necessary work. The forecast is for more very dry hot weather so, I do think we will have to spend a lot of time ‘moving water’.

I say new but, of course, in most cases, the allotments are not new. They have often been cultivated for a century or more. And, in many cases have been planted and harvested for years without anything going back in. So, lots of manure or other fertiliser is a priority for the coming year. If you find your plants, in spite of liberal additions of manure or other fertiliser, are turning yellow, it is possible your plot is too acid and you will need to add lime. If the ground is too acid the plants can’t access the nutrients. Take care with this, adding lime does not suit all plants and too much lime is just as bad as too little. The optimum pH (the measurement of the acidity/alkalinity of the soil) is around 6 – 6.5 for most vegetables, which is slightly acid. A pH meter from any garden shop may not give you an accurate measurement but, they are cheap and will give you an indication of a problem which needs to be dealt with.

As I said earlier, this may not be the best time to acquire a plot but, there are many crops which can still be successfully planted to gain a harvest this year.

Beans – for Runner beans or French beans – it is probably best to buy plants from the garden centre – too late to sow your own, except for beans that you intend to dry for the winter, eg, Borlotto and Yinyang beans which can be sown up until the end of July. Although Runner Beans and many varieties of French beans are climbers and will need a framework to support them( think about a robust frame 8 – 10 feet, 3 metres, high), many French beans are dwarf – my favourite is Purple Teepee.

Sweetcorn – I would suggest you buy your young plants from a garden centre as it is now too late to sow. They are, like beans, peas, courgettes, pumpkins and squashes gross feeders (ie. They need a lot of fertiliser). Make sure you plant them in blocks and fairly close together 8inches – 20cms max. distance. The plants must pollinate each other. (a couple of years ago I thought I’d be kind to my sweetcorn and gave them lots of space – 1ft(30cm) apart. They grew beautifully but, the cobs were not pollinated so, I got little from them. They are so easy to freeze so, if you like them, grow lots.

Squash, Pumpkin – Like the above vegetables, it is very much too late to sow your own but,  garden-centres should have a huge range of different types. They need lots of space as the plants spread a lot. Think a couple of square metres per plant. My preference is for a crop I can store and use during the autumn and winter. I’m not much interested in the monster pumpkins for Hallowe’en but, whatever rocks your boat! My recommendation is for small pumpkins like Baby Bear, Justynka or Hooligan and Cobnut squash. Be careful with pumpkins, some very fancy varieties may be pretty but, are actually poisonous to eat.

Tomato plants, courgette plants, pepper plants – If your climate is mild enough you might consider growing these plants outdoors. Again, it is probably too late to sow tomatoes. It is definitely too late to sow courgettes and peppers. Give the garden centres a bit of extra trade! Watch out for tomato blight (similar to potato blight).

Salad vegetables – successional sowing of lettuce, cut-and-come-again salad greens, radishes, spring onions are very encouraging, giving crops which you can now sow for yourself and harvest into the autumn.

Brassicas – that wonderful range of super-healthy green plants. I sowed some seed for winter production a week ago – Brussels sprouts and broccoli. If you don’t want to sow your own the garden centres should have a good range (gosh! At this rate they should be giving me a commission! Both of these crops are a mainstay of winter vegetables. Unless we have a winter like last year they should see you through the winter – even if you do get tired of eating purple sprouting broccoli.

Okay! Now think about the end of summer and into autumn. The ground is now tilled and crops harvested. This is an excellent time to order onion sets, garlic and shallots. They will be sent out by the seed companies (my favourite is Dobies) at the right time for planting. While they don’t really taste much different, it is nice to be able to grow and store your own onions. They say that autumn planted onion sets won’t keep, last year, due to the very dry year my onions have kept right through until the new crop is ready. And! Where is any shop you ever seen ‘wet’ garlic for sale. This is a pleasure only growers can enjoy.(young garlic bulbs-before the skins have set around the cloves- roast with roast lamb, pork, chicken – yummy!)

That is also a time to think about what you want to grow next year – what seeds you need, what perennial plants (globe artichokes, asparagus, fruit bushes/trees), potato seed – apart from eating my produce, this is my favourite occupation of autumn.

Enjoy and more later.