May on the Allotment - what should be done

May on the Allotment – what should we do?

Although our winter was outstandingly wet during 2013 and into 2014, it has also been very mild. This has been good for some crops and of course, not so good for others. My asparagus appeared above ground in January, prompting me to ‘earth it up’ a bit in case of late very cold weather. I have now been eating asparagus and giving away bundles for the last 4 weeks. It should be good for harvesting for all of May.

My globe artichokes survived the winter well without cutting back and minimal protection from frost. They have strong heads on already while I will be able to harvest in a couple of weeks. Interestingly, one of my strongest plants, which had three robust stems has suddenly collapsed – all three stems – perhaps the continuous rain got into the root and rotted it. Perhaps the continued dry weather we have had for much of April has upset it. Of course, it was not a young plant and was probably due for replacing, anyway. I’m not desperately upset as I usually have far more than I can happily eat.

My autumn sown Broad Beans have survived the winter well and pods are well set already – no sign of black fly [as yet – this is one of the advantages of autumn sowing broad beans – they avoid the worst of the black fly infestation]. This time I sowed Aquadulce Claudia [as I usually do] but, thought I’d also try something different with Karmazyn [also suitable for autumn sowing, it has a much more compact growth and has pink seeded beans – so far the plants are sturdy and well covered with flowers. I will report back at a later date on how these beans harvest and taste]. As we had a couple of very bitter winters when my broad beans did not over-winter at all well in spite of efforts to protect them, I covered my options and bought a couple of packets of spring sowing broad beans. They can keep for next year.

For the first time for a few years, I have been able to harvest parsley all winter – only a little during the winter as the growth was very slow but my, really quite substantial row across my plot is now keeping up with my demands quite well and I am watching my new sowing very carefully to ensure the seeds germinate – it is slow to germinate. If not I will have to re-sow as it is really one herb I could not do without. I put large handfuls of this into soups, sauces, potato cakes, meat dishes, casseroles, omelettes, quiches, pasta dishes – I don’t put it on my cornflakes!

 See next blog on parsley – varieties, cultivation, nutritional value, etc

Potatoes – they make me ashamed when I think of them – I always try to have them in the ground by St Patrick’s Day, 17^th March. The seed house didn’t send them out until March and they then had to be chitted. My 1^st Earlies [Epicure, a new one for me] was planted on 27^th March and are now appearing above ground. In spite of the very wet winter and early spring, since the beginning of April there has been little rain until the last week of April, resulting in rock hard ground. While I have managed to plant most of my seed potatoes, I didn’t plant my late maincrops [Sarpo Mira] until the end of April. The ground had been too hard for ‘earthing up’ and for planting. However, like with everything else, we do what we can and will deal with the weather which comes to us. I am compelled to say, yet again – each year, whatever the weather, is good for some crops and awful for others. It is important to keep working with what we have.

Maintenance around the plot and in green house or poly-tunnel

– keep established plants healthy and pest free – protect from slugs, snails and birds, especially on newly planted brassicas – cabbages, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, broccoli. As asparagus is now growing well, watch out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are seen. Aphids, whitefly [on brassicas], caterpillars can all weaken or eat you precious young plants. Watch out, also, for ants – while they don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build their nests under plants undermining them.

Watch for red-spider mite on indoor plants – spray the young plants with water regularly – [red-spider mites like dry conditions]. Regular spraying with SB Plant Invigorator [it is organic] will strengthen the plants and discourage pests.

Since I erected it five years ago, I have had ongoing problems with red-ants in my polytunnel. So far, nothing has worked to eradicate them. As I try to eliminate a nest in one part of the tunnel they just move round to a different area and start again. This year, I’m trying something different. I have put a large pot of mint in an area where I know a thriving nest has over-wintered. If this works and it is necessary I will place pots of mint at intervals around the tunnel – more later!

- Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.

- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].

- Earth-up potatoes as they start to appear, to protect from late frosts.

- Set up support for early sowings of peas.

- Pinch out the tender top growth of broad beans as soon as the first few rows of pods set at the bottom of the plants to deter black-fly [aphids] – particularly in spring sown beans, autumn sown beans, if they survive the winter, are less likely to be attacked.

- Protect strawberries from resting on the naked earth or mud – place straw under the plants or plant matting. Blackbirds do love the early ripening strawberries so netting might be necessary but be careful that the birds don’t get trapped under the netting.

- Remove the flower heads of rhubarb as soon as they start to appear as they will stop the production of new leaves [also some people prize the rhubarb flowers for flower arrangements – the flowers can attract aphids].

- As soon as they are big enough to handle, thin carrots and parsnips – dispose of carrot thinnings carefully to avoid attracting carrot fly.

- Keep fruit cages tidy and weeded – for particularly vulnerable bushes like redcurrants and gooseberries, ensure the cages are secure although do allow an escape hole for those intrepid birds which find a way in, in case of predators – cats and foxes will force a way in to catch trapped birds.

- Compost old plants or those which have finished producing.

Preparation and planning

- re-dig beds to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. As far possible, maintain the plan for good crop rotation you created over the winter – sometimes this does not work out as planned – weather, timing and condition of the soil can prevent implementation of excellent plans. Avoid planting root crops where you have added manure or lime.

When transplanting brassicas, it is a good idea to add a sprinkling of lime around each plant if you know your soil is too acid. Don’t add manure at the same time as lime but try to dig in good, well-rotted manure earlier in the season when digging the beds or in the previous autumn if possible..

For outdoor seed beds, ensure the soil has been broken down to a fine tilth. If your soil is particularly heavy or wet and is not breaking down easily - this can difficult on heavy clay soil or after a particularly wet season, it can be useful [especially with small seeds] to dig the bed over then create a shallow trench, fill with good quality compost [ bought-in is fine] and sow the seeds into this medium. Water well.

Sowing and planting

-  under cover [in green house or poly-tunnel] - winter cauliflower, celery, pumpkin and squash, runner beans. Herbs – basil.

– outdoors – [do wait a couple of weeks for the ground to be less cold] – beetroot, brassicas [broccoli/calabrese, spring, summer and winter cabbage, summer and winter cauliflower, kale, Swedes], Beans – runner and French, carrots, courgettes, outdoor cucumbers, Florence fennel, lettuce,  parsnips, potatoes [up to early May – the later the crop, the greater the risk of blight] 2^nd early and maincrop peas, pumpkins and squashes, radish, rocket, spinach and Swiss chard, spring onions, sweetcorn, turnips.

You can now transplant – into a poly-tunnel or greenhouse, young plants which have been raised in a propagator or heated greenhouse/conservatory – tomatoes, chillies and peppers, aubergines, indoor cucumbers.

You can now transplant outdoors – aubergines [only in warmer, sheltered areas], broad beans, French and runner beans, Brassicas – broccoli and calabrese, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, kale], celery, celeriac, outdoor cucumbers, leeks, peas [if raised under cover], peppers and chillies[only in warmer, sheltered areas], pumpkins and squashes, outdoor tomatoes.

In all cases, harden the plants off well before planting out and do consider the weather. The young plants should be well watered into their final growing spot and continue to water until the plants have established – if necessary.

If you are planning to set up an asparagus bed in the spring, May is the last month for buying crowns though, in warmer areas it is probably too late as established beds are well into their productive season. Of course you can also buy in the autumn which will give you time to create a suitable permanent bed.

Harvesting – May is well into the lean time of the year. With luck and good planning spring cabbages should be available. If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse or poly-tunnel, a crop of over-wintered spring cabbages should be available from late April onwards and should be available until the outdoor crop is ready

Overwintered cauliflower should start to head up now – as soon as the small heads start to show, make sure the plants are well watered.

For salads - over-wintered lettuce should also be ready for harvesting. Spring onion - White Lisbon can overwinter successfully although it will have a strong flavour. Of course, radishes sown under cover or outdoors will provide a crop very quickly. Sow successionally for a constant harvest.

Spinach and Swiss chard should provide a good harvest now – fresh young leaves are excellent in soups, salads, stir-fries, etc.

Asparagus should now be at its best and most productive – check the plants regularly for asparagus beetle.

Globe artichokes should have over-wintered well and should be producing their first heads

Early sowings of peas – if sown under a cloche should start to provide an early crop in late May.

Autumn sown broad beans will have started to develop good bean pods – these can be harvested and cooked like French beans though do leave lots for growing on.

Young turnips, sown under cover in early spring should now be available for harvesting.

Although it is past the leek season, I still have some late planted leeks which have not started to bolt [run to seed!]. As with parsnips, it can be useful to have an early and a late sowing to extend the harvesting potential.

Rhubarb this year is well ready for picking [don’t forget that the leaves are poisonous].