Growing Rhubarb - the winter division

Of course, at this time of year, we feel we don't have to do anything much on our allotment and this is the time to be laid back and plan for the future.... or not!

However, for a few of us who feel that producing vegetables for winter is important [ I do but, still go to the vegetable shop for those vegetables which have not been successful or have failed for me this year or, that I have not produced enough, eg. cauliflower... is always either glut or famine].

Of course, apart from harvesting, there are a few jobs which must be done - see on the last Blog. I did mention there about dividing rhubarb crowns. This is best done now or during January - February. Some varieties will start to sprout in February so, it is best to divide crowns before this.

Growing Rhubarb – rheum hybridum

 Rhubarb, although grown widely as a fruit, is not, in fact, a fruit. This is an important consideration when preserving the uniquely flavoured stems, as it contains no pectin so, will not ‘set’.

Sowing and Growing

It is grown for its stems which can be available – depending on the variety – from as early as March, in milder climates. Of course, commercially it is grown in dark, warmed sheds where the plants can be harvested as ‘sweet’ tender, blanched stems for most of the year.

On the allotment, it is possible to ‘force’ the rhubarb stems by covering with a large chimney pot or more frequently nowadays, with a compost bin or upturned plastic bin. The stems collected by this method are likely to be quite fragile or even limp after a very short time and are best eaten immediately. It is important to remove the covering quite early to allow the plant to put up ‘normal’ growth for the following season.

Rhubarb plants can last for many years so, it is important to create a good bed to ensure the young plants can establish well – make sure all perennial weeds have been removed although, in time the rhubarb will ‘crowd-out’ any intrusive weeds.

It is possible to grow from seed though, it is probably best to buy in young plants from a recommended provider or seed house in winter or early spring. Check what the type of plants available and choose a variety which will suit your taste and ground.

Although rhubarb is fairly tolerant of most sites and types of soil, it does prefer a well drained, sunny and well manured site. Rhubarb is not happy in a site where it is overgrown by trees or in heavy shade.

Although it is recommended to buy in new, young plants every ten years or so, if you have a variety you like, you can create new plants from the stock you already have – dig out the old roots [ they are deep rooted plants and can be difficult to eradicate if this is your intention] in the late autumn or winter and allow them to be exposed to frost. Make sure the plants you are using are healthy and with no obvious defects – an uncle of mine ,who had been a keen gardener for most of his life, said that the roots should be thrown at the back of the manure heap for the winter, then planted on again in the spring.

When I am sharing my favourite, early, sweet plant [I inherited it so I have no idea of the variety although, one rhubarb connoisseur suggested it might be ‘champagne’], I cut through a large section of the root with a sharp spade during the winter and pass it on. I understand all of my roots have transplanted happily. Perhaps, next year I will move my, now enormous, rhubarb plant to a new part of my plot to re-invigorate it.

Rhubarb is a fairly greedy plant and requires a good mulch of well-rotted manure each winter. Also, mulch the plants well to ensure moisture retention in dry years. Although rhubarb will tolerate dry spells, long dry seasons can affect the plant’s production in that season and in a subsequent year.

It is advisable to remove any flower heads as they may appear as they will stop the plant producing the stems which we would harvest although some growers like to grow rhubarb for  the flower heads as a supurb architectural plant for flower arrangements. This is fine though I have noticed that the flower heads can be susceptible to aphid attack.

Varieties

It is always important to see what the plant/seed providers are recommending as new varieties of plants become available each year. If you are planting new plants, it is important to resist harvesting any leaves in the first year to allow the plants to establish.

Try varieties – Livingston, Victoria, Champagne, Stockridge Arrow, Timperley Early [which should produce good stalks from February until October], Giant Grooveless Crimson [repudedly less acidic], Polish Raspberry.

What ever the variety, as the season progresses the stems become tougher and more acidic [sour]. This is a crop best harvested in spring until early summer.

Don’t forget that rhubarb leaves are poisonous. The same toxin, oxalic acid is also present in the stems so, it is not advisable to eat too much or give to young babies.

Harvesting and Storing

When harvesting rhubarb, the plant should be growing vigorously, definitely not in its first season of growing. If it has not established well or has had a difficult year previously then, don’t harvest. Water well and feed the plant until the following season.

Choose strong, thick stems and pull them strongly from above, bringing out the ‘attachment’ tissue to the mother plant. Don’t harvest too many from one plant. Cut off the leaves and the ‘attachments’ area of each stem.

Use the stems within a few days as they will wilt quite quickly, even in a fridge.

Rhubarb is best used in season although it can be used to create a wonderful Rhubarb and Ginger Jam.

Rhubarb leaves are highly toxic – containing oxalic acid and several other toxins. These toxins are also present in the leaves though, in much lower quantities. It is important to not eat too much of this ‘fruit’ and don’t give to babies in any form.

Pests and diseases

Young rhubarb plants can be susceptible to aphids though usually only on the flower heads. IF you wish to use them for flower arrangements it is important to deal with this possible infestation. Otherwise, remove all flower heads before they develop.

Honey fungus – if this is a problem on your allotment, can be a problem with rhubarb. Remove all roots and start on a new site with new, bought-in roots.