Malmsbury and Lacock in Wiltshire

Visiting Malmsbury and Lacock

Malmsbury has been on my list of places-I-must-visit for some time since, I passed through it a couple of years ago by accident when I missed my exit from the M4. It is a pity that it must wait until I have guests staying with me to make the promised trip. It is well worth the effort.

It is situated in the Cotwolds in the north of the county of Wiltshire. To find it, exit the M4 at Junction 17 and take the A429 for about 5 miles until you arrive in this very pretty town. I fear that to visit this delightful site, a car is essential.

The Market Cross

Parking is easy enough with 2 hours of parking costing not much, in the centre of the town beside the Tourist Information and the Athelstan Museum. The museum is actually quite interesting, free and not so large as to become tiresome so, do look in. We were warned by the very helpful and informative guide in the museum that although the parking is not expensive, they are very punctilious about your timing so, do make sure you are back to your car well before the time is up. However, it is a small town and, I guess, there is no reason why you can’t nip back to the car and buy another two hours of parking if you find somewhere very nice for lunch – and there are lots of inviting places to choose from. For disabled people, most places of interest are accessible.

Malmesbury is called The Queen of Hilltop Towns. It is almost completely surrounded by the River Avon [well, one of rivers in England called Avon – this one flows to the south coast, Dorset, I believe].

The first king of all of England, Athelstan, [grandson of Alfred the Great], 10^th Century – a bit before my time! – ruled from Malmsbury, as his capital. It is said that he has been buried 

somewhere in the grounds of the Abbey.

The wealth and development of the town was based on the wool industry, being in the Cotswolds, there was always an abundance of sheep and wool. Later a thriving industry in silk – fabric and garments was developed [presumably from imported silk] and lace making was particularly important. We were told that lace-making classes and practice are still taking place.

Ancient carvings around the church interior

The Apostles inside the South doorway

The abbey was founded in AD 675 though, was built in stone in 12^th Century. At one time it has a spire to rival that of Salisbury Cathedral. Much of the abbey has now disappeared although the beautiful church and gardens which are left are superb and unbelievably peaceful. It is still used as the parish church. I think, if it were my parish church, I might be persuaded to attend on a regular basis. For a tourist destination, it was not crammed with visitors. Perhaps the people of Malmsbury don’t want to be inundated with lots of visitors but, I can’t help feeling that a few more visitors would be beneficial to the businesses there.

A team of volunteers provided teas, coffees, cakes [a veritable feast for the eyes] and light lunches. We opted to eat in the church rather than in a restaurant in the town as all proceeds go towards supporting the church. Do be patient, the food was excellent, fresh and delicious but, it is important to remember that the people who provide the service are very charming volunteers.

We drove from Malmsbury to a small town [also in Wiltshire] which my daughter had insisted we should see. Never mind going to Bath, she said, you must visit, Lacock. Lacock, south of the M4 is just off the A350 – also exiting the M4 by junction 17. Pass Chippenham and head towards Melksham but, look out for signs for the village.

This ancient village is mostly owned by the National Trust. To visit the village is free although you do have to pay to park as, the main part of the village is restricted - parking only for the people who live there. [If you are a member of the National Trust, parking is free]

The village has been used as a set for many films and TV series set in the 18^th century and earlier. The large car park, slightly outside the village, was pretty full and there were tourists coaches in the park. If wheelchair bound, the journey from the car-park to the village was not too far although, toilets were very narrow. While toilets for disabled people may have been available, I didn’t see them.

Tithe Barn

This little town is totally enchanting. It dates from the 13^th century and is named in the Doomsday Book. It was given to the National Trust in 1944 which has ensured that the village and the environment are not marred by present day ‘visual debris’ like power lines, TV station dishes, road signs, etc. Unfortunately, for the photographer, the residents are [of course] allowed to park in front of their houses and it can be difficult to take good photographs with cars getting in the way – but I think I managed a few.

Do have a look at the Tithe Barn – open to the public, it allows a view of the construction of this interesting 14^th century public building, in excellent condition.

15th Century Inn

There are lots of interesting looking places to eat and drink, including a 15^th Century inn – still in use and interesting little craft shops supporting locally based craft work skills – pottery, woollen goods, silk painting, etc. The town was established and developed through the woollen industry.

At the top of the town is the Church of St Cyriac, established in the late 11^th Century. I found a very cute kitten just outside and opted to not visit another ancient building. My guests explored it but, were back within 5 minutes.

Lacock Abbey

Lacock Abbey – I have to admit that we decided to not spend the rather extravagant entrance fee for admission to the abbey although, I do believe it is worth a visit. By that time, we were all tired and looking forward to returning home, having a glass of wine or three, having dinner and relaxing. However, it was decided, by all members of my group, that it was an excellent day out and, I did manage to find and purchase a good present for my grandson’s first birthday ….. I hope!