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Sunday, 10 August 2014

Cucumber and Gherkin Preserves

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Cucumber and GherkinPreserves
Cucumbers are doing particularly well this year. I have two plants, Passandra F1 [all female – of the five seeds I sowed in my propagator in early March, only 2 germinated and of those, only one has survived to give me a crop. It can be difficult for the allotmenter, when there is only one small propagator and limited conditions for growing on, to have the correct conditions for a variety of different demanding plants. I was happy to have two plants but, disappointed that one of them died. However, a very kind friend gave me a very strong, healthy [much stronger than mine!] gherkin plant….. I don’t know the variety, neither did she. But, as it matures and grows beyond gherkin stage the fruit is really quite spiny. I planted them outdoors as I have noticed in the last few years that in my poly-tunnel, red spider mites have been very crippling to my cucumbers grown inside.
I have given my outdoor cumbers/gherkins little attention through the season. I’m not a great believer in watering outdoor plants in dry weather [well, I just don’t have the energy for all that water carrying!] and once the plants are well established, with a bit of plant food watered in every so often – a plant food which is rich in potash - potassium is good for flower and fruit production. Any good tomato food should also work well for cucumbers.
I have provided a fairly rudimentary framework and have tied the cucumber plants up to it periodically but, I haven’t even been particularly careful about weeding. Last year, in the same spot I had small yellow heritage tomatoes and they seem to be the main ‘weed’ growing in this area. Of course, I have rooted them out every so often. In any case the cucumbers/gherkins are now well above the weeds.
Cucumbers are definitely one of the joys of summer vegetables. I’m not so keen on them in salads and sandwiches. Although, their flavour seems deceptively delicate, I find it totally overwhelms all other flavours – great if you love it. In restaurants I must request that my salads or burgers do not have cucumber. However, I do love cucumber in pickles and chutneys/relishes.
Do try a few of these below.
Pickled Gherkins or Cucumbers
Approx 2lb [1 kg] small cucumbers  or larger cucumbers cut in quarters lengthwise then into suitable lengths
4 – 5 good sized garlic cloves
1 pint [ 500ml] water                                                  ¼ pint [125 ml] white vinegar
8 oz [225 g] salt                                                          8 oz [225g] sugar
2 tsp white mustard seed                                                         
2 tsp peppercorns
2 tsp coriander seed                                                   
 [small bunch fresh dill if liked]
Method
·         Wash the cucumbers and prick all over with a fork. Place them in a bowl and sprinkle the salt over them. Leave for several hours to remove excess moisture.
·         Drain and wash well several times.
·         Put the water, vinegar, sugar and spices together into a sauce and simmer gently for several minutes.
·         Pack the gherkins into sterilised jars, with small bunches of dill if using.
·         Slice the garlic cloves and add them.
·         Pour the hot liquid over the gherkins ensuring they are filled to the top – make sure there are no air bubbles trapped.
·         Cover and seal.
·         Allow a few days for the cucumbers to pickle but these pickles are best eaten within a couple of months but once opened store in the fridge.

Hot Sweet Cucumber Relish
Like so many other vegetables in late summer, we wonder what to do with the glut. It doesn’t take too many cucumber plants to have too many cucumbers. Try this recipe as a way of using and preserving them.
Ingredients
1 kg cucumbers ( 2 lb) – don’t let them get too big or they will be full of seeds
1 kg onions ( 2 lb)
1 cooking apple
600ml white vinegar (1 pint)
3–4 red chillies(I have used Joe’s Long, use a medium hot chilli, but take care if for children)
500gm sugar ( 1 lb) – I used white sugar, but soft brown sugar will ‘warm’ the colour of the relish
2 tsp salt                                                          1 tsp allspice
½ tsp ground cloves                                        1 tsp turmeric
¼ tsp mustard powder                                                ¼ tsp ground mixed peppers( black, green, red)
Method
1.      Top and tail the cucumbers and remove the skin – cut into small cubes - ¼ cm- ish. If necessary, remove the seeds – if the seeds are still soft, you can leave them in.
2.      Peel the onions and chop finely – similar size to the cucumber.
3.      Peel and core the cooking apple and cut into fine slices.
4.      Cut the red chillies into small pieces – if you don’t want the relish to be too hot, leave the seeds out, or leave some of the seeds out. For a hotter relish add more chillies.
5.      Put the chopped cucumbers, onions, apples and chillies into a large pan or preserving pan with the vinegar and gently simmer until all the vegetables are cooked through – approx. 30 mins.
6.      Prepare the jars/ bottles – wash well and sterilise – put in a warm oven - 100ºC for 15mins.
7.      Add the sugar and stir until dissolved.
8.      Add the spices and salt to taste, add more salt if necessary.
9.      Simmer gently until the relish thickens – remember, when cool it will be thicker. Stir occasionally.
            Pour into the hot sterilised jars and seal immediately. Label.

Cucumber and Apple Relish
3 – 4 medium to large cucumbers  [ slice finely and chop into small pieces -  if using a ridged variety, peel the cucumbers first]       
2 medium to large brown onions – peel and chop finely
2 medium to large cooking apples – peeled, cored and chopped finely
125 g [ 5 oz ] brown sugar                         3 – 4 finely chopped or crushed garlic cloves  
570ml [ 1 pint ] white vinegar                 1/2 tsp turmeric
2 dsp yellow mustard seeds     
salt  for preparation                               
2 – 3 green and/or red hot chillies [ finely chopped – leave out the seeds if you don’t want your relish to be too hot or use  mild chillies]
Method
·         Top and tail the cucumbers then finely chop – skin if necessary – and place in a non-metal container. Sprinkle fairly heavily with salt to remove excess water.
·         Add the finely chopped onion and mix well.
·         Leave for several hours then drain the excess liquid.
·         Partially grind the mustard seeds and the chillies and add to the turmeric
·         Put the vegetables into a large preserving pan. Add the freshly prepared chopped apple, spices and vinegar.
·         Bring to the boil briefly then cook gently until all the vegetables are cooked and the apples are pulped.
·         Add the sugar then boil until the mixture starts to thicken – take care that the mixture does not ‘catch’ and burn.
·         Pack into sterilised jars, cover and seal.
·         Once opened, keep in a fridge and use within a few weeks.
[This is quite a sour pickle – not too sweet, not too hot]

Wednesday, 6 August 2014

devastation with flies



Dealing with flies in the summer months

Well, in the UK, we don’t have window shutters to keep flies out, nor chain curtains, nor mesh over our windows. We open our windows and doors in hot weather to allow a cooling draught through our houses. Of course this allows those awful green/blue bottle flies to come in and lay their eggs in our pets’ food and in other exposed food. It is not pleasant, nor is that insistent buzz in our bedrooms as these flies circle around our lamps, windows and us when we get into bed.
I have found that bunches of lavender [ this season’s] tied up in each room, especially where the flies might come in, has been particularly effective. Even if the flies do come in, it seems they will seek a rapid way out. All good stuff.
However, it seems that those irritating little pests – the fruit flies/ vinegar flies/ compost flies are a major problem and don’t respond to the lavender trick.
Having just come back from a trip to London, I find that there are hundreds [if not thousands] of the little beggers in my kitchen and utility rooms.
I am reluctant to spray anything in my food preparation area or in my cat’s food area.
I have explored different solutions:
·         They are fairly easily caught, there are so many of them – any slap of the hands close to where they are flying is sure to catch one or two  but, what effect will this have on this huge population?
·         I can smack on their landing places and kill one or two with each swipe but, again, what effect will this have on the population?
·         I have tried a commercial product, Zensect, recommended to me by my local hardware shop – at £4.99 for a pack of two this was a complete waste of time and impossible to stick onto surfaces where it may have been effective – possibly!
·         I have introduced old-fashioned fly papers – they are ugly but are already catching the unwary fly or three. Not a brilliant result but, better than millions of flies buzzing around my head
·         I have placed a few glasses of different alcoholic concoctions around my kitchen and utility rooms. So far the glass containing a fairly high alcolohic content of a Danish spirit is the most effective. Possibly indicating that other drinks with a high alcoholic content might be the winners
·         Sherry is okay but not brilliant.
·         Sweet wine with added vinegar has been okay but, not brilliant.
·         My cooked beetroots, ready for further processing have been quite popular.
I would be really grateful for any advice which might help me with these pests and which I could pass on to other sufferers

Friday, 1 August 2014

August on the Allotment- 2014



August on the Allotment- 2014
There is nothing more entrancing than a cool breeze  gently wafting over one’s face in a hot and airless day. As I sit at my computer with the window open in front of me and all other windows open in my house to catch the evening breezes, this is just blissful. The breeze is not constant which makes it all the more wonderful when it does drift past me. We have had a couple of days of torrential rain in late July which were certainly welcome on our crops and our allotments although, in spite of the deluge, there has been little improvement on the ground. The weather forecast was for further heavy thunderstorms at the end of July which haven’t materialised.

Maintenance around the plot and in greenhouses or poly-tunnels –

v  It has been very dry this summer and many plants which need water on a daily basis are struggling. I have a poly tunnel which is demanding but I have neither the time nor the stamina to water all the other crops which need it during this long dry summer. However, assuming that all indoor crops are watered regularly and appropriately, outdoor crops which would benefit from regular watering and feeding are courgettes, pumpkins, tomatoes, sweetcorn, globe artichokes, aubergines, cucumbers, peppers. At it is the flowers, leading to the fruits we are hoping to harvest, give the plants a good feed of an appropriate high potash fertiliser [ tomato foods are good] weekly;


v  Pick courgettes regularly [daily to every 2 days] to prevent them from becoming too large and to encourage the plants to produce more flowers – of course, you may prefer the large marrows;
v   Except for those varieties of pumpkins which produce small hand-sized pumpkins [Baby Bear, Buffy Ball, Wee B, Festival, etc which can put on viable fruits of 10 or more per plant] ‘stop’ the fruit production at 2 – 4, depending on the size;
v  Strawberries will now be sending out lots of new runners. Peg these into the ground near the ‘mother’ plants or into pots of compost, to create new plants. They will need to be watered regularly especially if in pots. Old spent beds, 3 years old and above can be cleared [they will have produced few runners although if this is your source of runners for the next bed, leave them until the new runners have established]. Once you have taken the runners you need and they are established, cut back the un-needed runners and old leaves from the established plants. Remove old straw and tidy for the winter;
v  Watch out for caterpillars – even netted crops can be attacked by cabbage white butterflies [I have observed the butterflies landing on the netting, folding their wings and creeping through]- environmesh is excellent but, is expensive, especially if you have lots of crops to cover. Slugs and snails are always a problem although this year they have not been so destructive, I have noticed they have caused a lot of damage on my small summer cabbage plot.
v  In greenhouses and poly-tunnels watch for red spider mite – they do love hot dry weather. I try to soak the whole area of my ploy-tunnel to discourage them but, of course this can lead to botrytis infection. Caterpillars on tomatoes can be a big problem, they will munch into the leaves and the fruits, the damage will, of course allow botrytis to attack the plants. Watch out for their droppings and pick them off as soon as you see them – daily if possible – and destroy.
v  On cordon tomato plants, continue to remove side shoots [they will regrow], try to keep the plants to one stem and allow the plants to set 5 – 6 trusses only[remove the growing tip at this point] or you may have lots of small green tomatoes at the end of the season [However, lots of growers are looking for these green tomatoes, there are many recipes for green tomato chutney and green tomato jam]. For me the harvest I want is of red tomatoes for freezing pulp, tomato ketchup and tomato chutneys and relishes;
v  If you have not already done so, prune plum trees and blackcurrant bushes – avoid pruning plum trees in winter time as this can lead to disease infiltration. Remember that blackcurrants fruit on new wood. If you fail to prune on the new shoots on the old branches and this will probably give you a good harvest next year. However, if you are dealing with old bushes which have not been pruned for some years, try to cut out half of the old growth which will encourage new growth for next year but will still leave new shoots on old branches to produce for next year. In the following year, remove the rest of the old branches. When pruning redcurrants and white-currants, remember that they produce fruit on old branches so careful pruning is required to ensure there will still be a crop in the following year.
v  Keep the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.
- Weeding – keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the hoed weeds will often re-root].
v   Clear away old leaves and debris from harvested crops and of winter brassicas – the leaf debris will give pests a home over the autumn and winter.
v  On Asparagus plots, keep a watch for asparagus beetle – they were very active early in the season but have not been too damaging later. As soon as the old ferns[mine are now six feet high plus [2 metres], turn yellow and brown, cut them back to the ground. Mulch the asparagus well with compost or well rotted manure and ensure all weeds have been removed [don’t hoe as you could damage the roots]

Preparation and planning - re-dig beds as soon as crops are harvested, to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out.
v  Although it is early for ‘autumn’ digging, I will start to dig ground where crops have been harvested which will give me a chance to do the necessary digging [I have a large area to cover and opportunities for digging can easily be missed]. Areas such as pea beds and those for early brassicas can now be turned over.
v  Don’t forget that strawberry beds which are three years plus old should now be cleared – the ground re-dug and a new area set up for the young runners when rooted.
v  Globe Artichoke plants may well need to be re-established. If, like most of mine, they are several years old, cut back the plants to allow the new growth to develop and look out for side shoots which can be removed from the parent plant and established in a new bed – not yet!

      Sowing and planting
-      Of course, carrots can be sown until the end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I have had more success with earlier sown carrots;
-      Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from May until July outdoors;
-      Leeks can be transplanted as soon as the ground can be prepared. If it is very dry, water it well beforehand;
-      Spinach and Swiss Chard can still be sown;
-      Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket, spring onions, can all be sown outdoors – although, in this very dry year, seed beds will require daily watering;
-      Turnips can be sown until the end of August for harvesting into winter.

 Harvesting
v  Second-Early and Early-Maincrop potatoes are now be ready for harvesting. Watch carefully for Blight and dispose carefully of any top growth you suspect may have blight – don’t compost it;
v  Runner beans and French beans should be harvested regularly to encourage the plants to continue to produce flowers and fruit [ stop the top growth as soon as it becomes a stretch for you to reach]. Those beans which are being grown for drying for the winter [Borlotto, Orca, Jack Edwards, etc. should be allowed to continue to grow without picking until the end of the season when they should dry on the vine [if the weather is very wet you might need to harvest them and pod and dry them indoors on trays];
v  Beetroots and carrots are also at their to their peak quality – remember, when digging carrots to dispose of carrot tops well away from the crop to discourage carrot root fly.
v  Lettuces and spring onions [see above]. The lettuces won’t sit too long in the bed – eat them quickly or give them away and replant with new seedlings. [ I am really bad at harvesting my lettuces and waste so many of them in-spite of offering them to others- I should rethink the varieties I grow and the quantities
v  Globe artichokes are still harvestable although watch out for greenfly and black fly – they are quite a nuisance now coming into their main harvesting season.
v  Of course, in our greenhouses and poly-tunnels – tomatoes will be in full flow, peppers, aubergines, chillies will be ripening.
v  v Cucumbers – indoors and out will be reaching maturity – don’t allow them to become too mature as the seeds can be unpleasant and will reduce the usefulness of the fruits.
    v  Sweetcorn should be harvestable this month. The cobs should be ready for harvesting when the 'silk' has turned dark brown and is brittle. Don't let them sit too long or the kernels become rather tough. Keep an eye out for attacks by mice. rats or pigeons.