June
on the Allotment 2015
I looked back at the blog I wrote
last year on ‘June on the Allotment’ and was interested to note that May had
also been cool and wet last year. I may be wrong but, I do feel that this year
May has given us a better start as, although it has been disappointingly cool,
we have had some pleasant sunny days between the wet days. My brassicas, at
least, are looking happy. Pumpkins and courgettes which I planted out a couple
of weeks ago are not so happy and have put on no growth. In my poly-tunnel, I
have even lost a couple of tomato seedlings and a couple of chilli seedlings
which I had planted into the ground of the tunnel. I can only think it was a
cold night which finished them off before they got established. I was
particularly sorry that one of the failures was my one and only germinated
seedling of the Kashmiri chillies I had sown – it had seemed quite a sturdy
little plant. However, I will try them again. [I hadn’t sown proper seeds but
those taken from dried Kashmiri Chillies I had bought for use in the kitchen.
If you have not tried these before, do try them. They are not hot but have a
very distinctive flavour to enhance Indian cooking and I do love them added to
the selection of spices I would add to a roasting joint of ham or gammon.
Maintenance
- around the plot and in greenhouses or
poly-tunnels –
ü Birds
are always a problem though, thankfully, not indoors. Netting brassica plants
is probably essential. I have also found it necessary to put nets over peas and
carrots.
This year to my surprise, I see
that pigeons [I assume] have eaten every little plant in two ridges of parsley
[one curly leaf and one flat leaf]. I have sown again and might keep them in
large pots at home – covered and slug-pelletted! I have an image of the future of every bed of
every fruit and vegetable being covered with netting.
ü Berries,
particularly gooseberries, are especially susceptible to harvesting by blackbirds.
They also hugely enjoy redcurrants. I noticed last year that some of my red-currant
bushes had already been stripped of their fruit even though the fruits were
still green. This year I have loosely covered my strawberry beds with net. As I
am not using the very fine netting which the birds can catch their feet in, I
am hoping that the net will deter them but also give an escape route if needed.
ü Slugs
and snails are not so much of a problem in Green houses and poly-tunnels but do
keep as lookout for them just in case. They can be quite a serious problem
under cloches and in cold frames and a major issue on outdoor plants,
especially brassicas. Do keep an eye on their activity – slug traps, pellets,
etc are useful though, they can also be quite a pest underground with root
crops and potatoes.
ü Watch,
also, for red spider mite on indoor plants – they like dry warm conditions and
can take over and destroy your indoor aubergines, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers
and chilli plants. The leaves of affected plants will take on a mottled
unhealthy appearance. On closer inspection you will see webs, mostly on the
backs of leaves and when the infestation is severe, between leaves and stems
[if the infestation reaches this level, it is best to dig up and remove the
infected plants – keeping a close eye on nearby plants for similar infection].
ü Carrot
Root Fly – an ongoing problem in the UK for carrot crops. When thinning rows of
carrots disturb the ground as little as possible and dispose of the thinning
well away from your carrot beds. Alternatively, sown the crop very thinly to
avoid thinning.
ü By
June you should finish harvesting asparagus. We should now allow the spears to
develop into ferns to encourage strong growth in the crowns next year. Watch
out for asparagus beetle and remove any beetles or larvae as soon as they are
seen. I haven’t seen any yet this year
but, doubtless they will be with us soon.
ü Aphids
- particularly on broad beans, [Autumn sown broad beans are less likely to be
attacked by blackfly – with spring sown crops, remove the tender top growth,
once the first flowers have set to discourage this pest] and whitefly [on
brassicas]. Watch out, also, for ants [especially red ants which seem to be
more destructive and quicker to bite than their black ant cousins] – while they
don’t, in themselves, damage the plants, they encourage aphids and will build
their nests under plants undermining them. I have noticed that aphids on my
plot have focused on specific plants while those plants around them are clear.
I have therefore done nothing to destroy them. The loss of one broccoli plant
among a dozen is a sacrifice I can make as long as I don’t have to use sprays.
ü One
of my neighbours has been particularly anxious about the presence of large
numbers of Cabbage White Butterflies. She said that her young plants had been
attacked while still indoors – before they were planted out. The green
caterpillars of this variety can demolish your plants very quickly. Check
daily, if you can and remove any caterpillars you see.
ü Earth
up main-crop potatoes as they grow.
ü Pinch
out the side shoots of cordon tomato plants as they appear [not from bush
tomatoes], on plants already growing on in green houses and poly-tunnels. Stake
or tie up the plants as they develop to keep them upright.
ü Keep
the plot tidy - cut grass on paths regularly to prevent weeds and grass from
encroaching on your plot and to reduce slugs and snails.
ü Weeding
– keep seed beds, particularly, free from weeds. Hoeing is useful but take care
to not damage young plants [hoeing is not very effective in wet weather as the
hoed weeds will often re-root].
ü Support
your young peas plants as they start to grow.
Preparation and
planning
ü Re-dig
beds to create a good workable tilth - ready for planting out. As far possible,
maintain the plan you created over the winter for good crop rotation –
sometimes this does not work out as planned – weather, timing and condition of
the soil can prevent implementation of excellent plans. Avoid planting root
crops where you have added manure or lime.
ü In
June you can still sow many seeds outdoors and preparation of the seed beds is
important for good germination. [If the ground is too hard in a dry month to
create a fine tilth, try watering the ground well, leave for a short time then
water again. If this does not break down unyielding ground, create a furrow 4 –
6inches [10 – 15cm] deep and fill this with compost [I use bought-in compost
when necessary]. Sow the seeds into this as normal. The seeds and young plants
may well need lots of watering in dry weather to ensure germinating and growing
on. The addition of the compost should help the quality of the ground for the
next crop when dug in. However, if using bought-in compost, be aware that it
will dry out very quickly on the top couple of cms which will prevent seeds
from germinating.
ü When
transplanting brassicas, it is a good idea to add a sprinkling of lime around
each plant if you know your soil is too acid. Don’t add manure at the same time
as lime but try to dig in good, well-rotted manure earlier in the season when
digging the beds.
·
Sowing and planting
-
under cover [in green house or poly-tunnel]
Herbs – basil can still be sown to have successional pots of the herb.
Tomatoes, peppers, chillies, cucumbers, aubergines can still be transplanted
into ground indoors or into large pots.
– outdoors – You can still sow – French beans [some
varieties are better sown a bit later. Read the instructions from the seed
supplier], runner beans, beetroots [although you may have sown earlier in the
season, if you like this crop you can continue to sow for a couple of months:-
-
Beans – French beans and runner beans
can be transplanted outdoors;
-
This is still a good time for sowing
brassicas outdoors, try – Broccoli/calabrese, spring cabbage for next year,
winter cauliflower and kale.
-
Of course, carrots can be sown until the
end of August, if you have suitable conditions although, I have found that I
have had more success with earlier sown carrots.
-
Courgettes – if you have good, kind
conditions, can now be sown outdoors although I have always propagated my
seedlings and grown then on indoors to plant out in June. In a good year, with
predictably warm forecasts do try for an earlier crop but, I would still prefer
to wait.
-
Florence Fennel – a wonderful vegetable
whose fresh aniseed flavour is such a wonderful addition to salads – sow from
May until July outdoors;
-
Peas can be sown for successional crops
until the end of June. Although I have sown some developed for late sowing in
late July. While this did extend my harvesting time, the crops were not
amazing;
-
Salad crops – lettuce, radishes, rocket,
spring onions, can all be sown outdoors.
-
You
can still transplant outdoors – aubergines [only in warmer, sheltered areas], French and runner beans, Brassicas – broccoli
and calabrese, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, kale], celery,
celeriac, courgettes, outdoor cucumbers, leeks, peppers and chillies[only in
warmer, sheltered areas], pumpkins and squashes, outdoor tomatoes.
In
all cases, harden the plants off well before planting out and do consider the
weather. The young plants should be well watered into their final growing spot
and continue to water until the plants have established – if necessary.
·
Harvesting –
By now we should be coming to the end of the ‘Lean time’. For some time, the
only crops available for harvesting have been asparagus, spring cabbage, purple
sprouting broccoli, lettuce and rhubarb.
·
Overwintered
cauliflower should be ready now, if it has survived the winter. Spinach and
Swiss chard should provide a good harvest now – fresh young leaves are
excellent in soups, salads, stir-fries, etc.
·
Early potatoes should now be ready for harvesting
but do check early in the month as
growth has been slow this spring- I have now been harvesting globe artichokes
for a few weeks, the purple ones especially have been outstanding. The plants
have overwintered very well in spite of minimal protection and no cutting back.
·
Broad beans are now at their best –
Autumn sown – the Spring sown varieties are not likely to be ready until the
end of the month or into July.
·
Early sowings of peas – if sown under a
cloche should start to provide a crop now.
·
Over wintered onions and garlic will now
finish their growth during the month although there is no sign yet of die-back–
look out for yellowing leaves and some withering. In onions, the leaves will
fold over. Lift them and set them on the ground, in dry weather or on a rack,
to allow them to dry out before storing in a cool dry place.
·
Young turnips, sown under cover in early
spring should now be available for harvesting.
·
Rhubarb should now be at its best [don’t
forget that the leaves are poisonous].
·
Soft fruit - redcurrants, blackcurrants
and white currants as well as gooseberries, early varieties of raspberry and
strawberries should now be ripening. Keep them protected from birds – they do
seem to love redcurrants and gooseberries particularly. If you have lots of
fruit, make sure you have containers for freezing and lots of jam-pots ready
for preserving. If you still have produce in your freezer from last year, now
is the time to use it up so that you have space for the new crops.
Recipes
Broad
Beans à la Paysanne
– recipe contributed by Alan Lock ( from the Cook’s Guide to Vegetables-
Christine Ingram& Patrick McLeavey)
(Serves
four)
15 ml olive oil
1 Onion - finely chopped
75 g ham, lean thick and finely
diced
350 g broad beans – shelled
2 Little Gem lettuces, chopped
75 ml. Stock – chicken or
vegetable
50 ml. Single cream Sprigs – fresh mint or
chervi to garnish
·
Heat
oil in a saucepan.
·
Fry
onion and ham until soft.
·
Add
beans and lettuce.
·
Stir
in the stock, cream and seasoning [Add salt and freshly ground black pepper]and
cook over a very low heat for 20 – 30 minutes.
·
Stir
occasionally, taking care to not break up the beans
·
Turn
into a warm serving dish and garnish with the mint or chervil.
·
Serve
with grilled meat or an omelette.
Notes:
Try with smoked bacon instead of
ham, the smokiness works well with all of the other ingredients. If using bacon
you can cut back on the olive oil. Fry the bacon first then remove and put to
one side. Fry the onions in the bacon fat( with a little olive oil if needed).
Add back the bacon when done and carry on as above.
Broad Bean Hummous – Cliodhna’s
version of a River Cottage Recipe
400g
shelled broad beans (late season large beans all good!!!)
1/2-1
glove of garlic (but to be honest I put 1/3 more than they ask)
about 3
tablespoons oil
generous
squeeze of lemon juice (often more)
salt/pepper
Method
·
I steamed the beans for 8-10 mins (the older the
beans I would give more like 10 mins)
·
Drain and cool (I just dunk them in cold water
after cooking if I’m short of time)
·
Take off the waxy skins.
·
Put skinless beans in processor with oil, garlic,
lemon juice and seasoning. Blitz and add more oil if the mixture is too dry (I
added more lemon juice to do this job to avoid the mixture being too oily).
·
season to taste as necessary
I found
this recipe from Hugh Fernley 'River Cottage Everyday' [ a book well worth
buying]. But what I have written is my words not his and things I did a little
differently.
I found
it went amazingly with crisp fresh lettuce and cheese on toast! Yum!
Roasted Ham or Gammon
with Kashmiri Chillies
1
joint of lean ham or gammon [ 1-1½ Kg approx] – smoked or unsmoked according to
your taste
[I would rarely
cook this for myself alone but, for a family gathering, it will provide good
eating for sandwiches, grazing on, in omelettes, etc for several days if kept
wrapped in the fridge. Of course it is also delicious eaten hot as a main meal]
2 – 3 hot chillies dried or fresh – sliced or broken
into small pieces
2 – 3 pieces of cinnamon bark [if you are using
cassia bark – the chunkier cinnamon bark, add a little more]
4 - whole
star-anise 10
bay-leaves approx. [fresh if possible]
Whole black peppercorns a few whole pimiento [allspice]
8 Kashmiri Chillies – more if you wish although the
flavour is quite dominant
A good Tablsp, runny honey
NO
salt
Method
·
Remove packaging and wash the joint
under the cold tap, dry with kitchen paper.
·
The ham/gammon will be cooked in a
parcel and I have found greaseproof paper better than foil. Alternatively, if
you can get hold of a roasting bag [can be bought in packets in supermarkets]
this will give best results as it keeps the meat very moist].
·
Place the meat on the greaseproof paper
and press the spices into as much of the flesh as possible, covering all with
the bay leaves.
·
Pour over the honey then wrap the joint
loosely into a secure parcel. If the juices leak out they are likely to burn
and the joint will be less moist.
·
Alternatively, place the ham/gammon into
a roasting bag and put the spices, herbs and honey in around it, making sure it
is covered as much as possible. Seal the bag. And place on an ovenproof tray.
·
Roast in a moderate oven [180º reducing
to 140º after about 45mins, Gas mark 4].
·
Depending on the size of the joint allow
about 1½ hours.
·
Leave the joint in its parcel for at
least 15 – 20 minutes before opening and slice. If you are opening it
immediately, be careful of the steam in the packet.
