Garlic - growing, using and storing

Growing and Using Garlic

Really, I can’t believe I have never written about this amazing and essential herb/vegetable before. Hopefully, I can atone for that omission in this Blog.

For me, garlic is one of the major essentials in cooking in today’s menus.

Back in the 1990’s Dr D.G.Hessayon put garlic into his ‘herb’ section at the back of his book and gave few details on how to grow it. His advice, however, on how to use it is very reminiscent of my first introduction to this wonderful plant many years ago.

Dr Hessayon said – way back then ‘If you are a beginner with garlic, you must use it very sparingly or you will be put off forever. Rub a wooden salad bowl with a clove before adding the ingredients. Rub the skin of poultry before roasting…..’

Now I look at this with amazement as I add garlic to most of the dishes I cook – be they casseroles, roasts, curries, North African food – tagines etc. West Indian, East Indian, South American, Asian chutneys, relishes, ketchup, etc. I cannot imagine my kitchen without.

In our climate and in most of our soils in the south of our country, garlic grows well, although, in wetter years on my very heavy clay soil it has not been so productive. If you have not grown it before, when you are looking for a variety which will suit your soil and conditions, ask your neighbours which grows best for them. Alternatively try a few different varieties and see which does best. Some of the main seed houses will provide a beginner’s pack or 'Garlic Lover's Pack'– giving 1 bulb of 3 or 4 different varieties. Try these and see what does best, keeping in mind that what grows well in one year may not do so well in other years with different weather conditions. For this reason I always grow several varieties.

In the last few years I have planted Solent Wight and Purple Wight. Although, Solent Wight is usually the reliable one, this year the Purple Wights gave me an amazing crop though the Solent Wights were seriously disappointing. There is, of course an argument which says, to grow only those varieties which like our SW England soil.

Now for this serious stuff!

Garlic, along with onions, leeks, shallots, spring onions, is a member of the Allium family and many of the diseases which affect one of these vegetables are likely to affect the others to a greater or lesser degree.

Growing – Although garlic can be grown from seeds, it is normally grown from the bulbs [cloves]. It can be planted in autumn or in spring, [between October and the end of April, depending on variety]. If planting in autumn, it is suggested that you plant to a depth of about 10cm [4in] as repeated freezing and thawing can lead to weakening of the bulbs and encourages white rot. However, on heavy soil, I have found that if planted as deeply the cloves will rot in the ground. If you do leave the tops of the bulbs just peeking above ground, as you might do with onions or shallots, make sure you put nets over the bulbs to prevent birds from pulling them up – it seems the birds think they are worms? Once the bulbs are established and put up green growth, remove the nets so that the garlic shoots don’t grow through the netting.

If your soil is heavy clay, there are several alternatives;

-      Leave planting until spring and plant into well dug beds;

-      Prepare the ground well – make a trench and fill with fine soil, sand [to help drainage] and compost before planting;

-      Plant to a depth of 2-3cm [1 in], making sure the growing tip is below the level of the ground.

The major authorities on garlic growing suggest that garlic planted in the autumn is best eaten as it becomes ready as it does not store as well as that planted in the spring. [That said, I have always planted mine in the autumn and my stored bulbs have always kept well until the next year’s crop is ready].

Garlic cloves can be planted quite closely together as the mature plants don’t have a huge spread. If you prefer large bulbs, plant 15 – 20cm [6 – 8 in] apart, in rows the same distance apart. They can be planted as close as 10cm [4in], but leave more space between the rows. You can dig a trench and set the cloves in before covering or you can make suitable holes using a dibber. Don’t force the cloves into the ground or you may damage them.

The ground should preferably be in a sunny spot, light and free draining and not too acid. It is better if fertilised in the previous season – don’t add manure before planting. Keep the beds well weeded throughout their fairly long growing season and water well in dry weather. A good onion fertiliser will also encourage a more productive crop.

 Although you can save your own bulbs for planting again in the next season and, you can plant garlic you have bought from the vegetable shop or supermarket, it is really advisable to buy in fresh, certified disease free bulbs from a reputable source, to avoid a build-up of diseases. Also those bought in supermarkets may not be varieties which are suitable for our conditions.

When you take the bulbs home, remove them from any packaging and separate each individual clove from the bulb - don’t remove the papery skin – discard any cloves which have blemishes and plant only the more robust bulbs. Make sure you plant them with the growing point up.

Types

Although there are many different varieties to choose from there are two main types of garlic:

Hardneck – it is easy to understand the title when you have grown this type as it will put up a hard stem [a scape] and eventually a flower head which produces small garlic like fruits [all parts are edible]. They are more suitable for colder harder conditions. Varieties include – Lautrec Wight, Carcassone Wight.

Softneck – the most commonly grown type on our allotments – includes Solent Wight, Arno and Purple Wight. They usually mature faster and keep longer than the hardneck varieties and when harvested can be plaited into handsome, traditional strings of garlic for hanging your storeroom.

It is best to look at the varieties available from you seed provider and see which type will suit you best. Some companies like Thompson and Morgan offer a Garlic Lover’s Selection which would give you the opportunity to try out different types to see what suits your ground and palette best. Look out for this in the autumn.

Have a look also at The Garlic Farm – www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk

Harvesting

When the leaves start to yellow and fall over, the plants have finished their growing time. Lift them carefully and lay them on the ground [or on a suitable rack – I use a couple of bakery trays given to me by a baker friend, also good for drying onions and shallots] for a few days in dry weather for the tops to dry out. This is more difficult in continuous wet weather when you will need to find a cool sheltered spot and hang them up to dry out – in a shed if you have one. Keep the bunches loose to avoid the bulbs rotting. The tops should be completely dried out before storing.

When the bulbs have grown but before they are fully ripened and the skins have not yet formed between the cloves, you can harvest ‘wet garlic’, to be used immediately as a vegetable. This is particularly delicious roasted.

Nutritional Value

Garlic contains good levels of carbohydrate and protein. It is a useful source of Vitamin B – Thiamine B1, Riboflavin B2, Niacin B3, B5 and an excellent source of B6. It is a good source also of Vitamin C.

The many minerals include calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, zinc and a small amount of sodium.

Pests and Diseases – unfortunately there are many diseases garlic, similar to those which affect onions which can prevent you from achieving a satisfactory crop.

-      Rust, one of the main diseases on our allotment fields affecting especially garlic and leeks – if it attacks early [as it did in 2012] and the infection is heavy it will prevent the bulbs from developing properly possibly giving a less than useful crop. In most seasons the garlic just outgrows the rust with no major effect. Avoid planting in the same area again although, on allotments, this is difficult as others’ crops are so close and you have limited space to move.

-      White rot, more commonly seen on onions and especially in wet cold years – it is a soil borne disease so it is important to avoid planting any allium crops in that area for about 8 years. Destroy any plants carrying this disease.

Having just received my Garlic bulbs to be planted this autumn and having divided them into their different, varieties I am just waiting for the weather to become a little cooler and for the rain[ we are now getting, at long last] to give me suitable planting conditions. Each year I put clear labels against the rows, so that I know which has done best, with clear writing in ‘permanent’ ink. And each year it has disappeared by harvest time! I do this also with my potatoes – fortunately, I keep a record on my computer of what I have planted, and where.

Please be aware that Elephant Garlic is not a 'garlic' but a member of the leek family. The roots will grow enormous and very satisfying looking cloves but are very mild in flavour and may not suit the serious garlic lover. These bulbs are also expensive to buy although, if you like them, of course you can buy one and keep the cloves produced to increase your crop in the following year.

October on the Allotment 2014

On the allotment in October 2014

Well honestly, it has been a very productive year although some crops, like brassicas, have not enjoyed the uber dry year which, after last year’s ongoing rainstorms and floods, especially here in the south west, has been something of a relief. Last year, 2013, was an excellent example of this although, among us dedicated gardeners on the allotments we still had our major successes – as always the outcome depends on the amount of effort and work which is put into the plot. And, my daughter always tells me – ‘You reap as you sow!’

I have now received my garlic seed cloves to be planted from October onwards. If the present mild weather continues, I might just keep them over for a few weeks until the weather is a bit cooler/colder. It really is, still a bit warm although, the first weekend for us in the south west is for torrential rain. This would be excellent for me – really. I know heavy rain is not popular with holiday makers and weekenders but, growers, farmers and gardeners are probably gasping for a good heavy downpour for a day or two. Not that we have a choice.

As I always do, I look to experiment with a few crops each year. Of course, the results can be skewed by the weather conditions each year. I would have to be a dedicated environmental scientist to follow through on the different crops but, on my allotment and the differing climate conditions, I can gather a useful profile.

For next season, I have bought a few new varieties. Of course the reliable Solent Wight and Purple Wight might in normal seasons have performed beautifully – and the Purple Wight did superbly – my Solent Wight was very disappointing. Probably the weather but, I have decided to explore some of the varieties which have been introduced this year. I have read the profile of each of these varieties and hope they will perform well for me next year – This autumn I am trying Champion White and Champion Purple as well as Messindrome – next year, I will report back on their performance

Divide each bulb into its individual cloves and store them in an airy, cool, environment until the ground is ready. As with all plants [ apart from dry seeds], like bulbs, corms, living plants – asparagus, rhubarb, etc. when you buy them, whether on line or in a gardening shop, they are usually packaged in polythene. As soon as you get them home, remove them from their packaging and store in a cool, dry dark place until you are ready to plant them.

Of course, I can start to plant my autumn sowing Garlic cloves from the beginning of October. This autumn has been particularly mild so, I think I might hold back on the garlic planting for a couple of weeks until the weather becomes a bit colder.

In the meantime, make sure the bed to plant these alliums has been well prepared – a well dug, fine tilth bed where you can plant the cloves 10cm [4in] apart in rows 20cm [8in apart.]. The cloves should be planted just below the soil surface. [cover with netting to discourage birds from picking up the young cloves].

Make sure, when you are planting, that no alliums [onions, leeks, garlic, spring onions], - have been planted or grown for the last 8 years if there has been any sign of onion white rot on this ground.

I have also been setting up my new strawberry bed. The ground has been well dug and cleared, carefully of weeds [this bed will be in place for the next three years so, it is good to ensure there are no weeds at the beginning. I cover my strawberry beds with woven black matting to help keep the weeds under control but, still allows some rain to get in.

Maintenance

·         As you finish harvesting crops, remove all plant debris and compost. Remove all perennial weed especially deep rooted and persistent weeds such as couch grass, dandelions, bind-weed, etc and dispose of these plants [ it is useful to keep a separate compost bin for these weeds].

Remove, also, canes, ties, labels and markers and store securely.

·         Continue to keep paths and edges neatly cut. Although it is autumn the weather is still quite warm and grass and weeds continue to grow strongly.

·         As they stop growing and start to die back, cut back asparagus ferns and dispose of the top growth. Clear plant debris and weeds from the asparagus beds to discourage overwintering of asparagus beetles. Cover the beds with a good layer of well rotted manure or compost to maintain the nutrition in the soil and to provide protection from winter frosts.

·         Remove plant debris from established beds of rhubarb and globe artichokes as the plants die back for the winter. As the weather becomes colder, globe artichoke plants will require some protection from deep frosts. By the end of the month it is possible to divide long established, overcrowded clumps of rhubarb. As they become in need of rejuvenation, you may find that the stems become disappointingly spindly. Drive a sharp spade through the roots to break them up [ you will find that the roots are huge, tough and deep] keep the best pieces for replanting. Although it is possible to plant these roots immediately into a well dug, well manured [well rotted manure] fresh site, an uncle of mine who was a very experienced gardener told me that the best way to treat the rhubarb root was to ‘throw it at the back of the manure heap and let the frost at it for the winter, then plant it in the spring. I have used this method any time I have tried to divide and re-establish rhubarb and I have never yet had a failure. My main problem with rhubarb has been trying to remove it from a plot where it is not wanted.

·         Remove plant debris from beds of winter vegetables – especially brassicas. Make sure brassica beds are well protected by netting to keep pigeons away – they do love a tasty meal of cabbage, broccoli or sprout [I have found that in cold winters, they will sit on top of the netting, forcing it down onto the plants and will eat the leaves through the net.] I have seen, several times in the last couple of weeks that, we have a very active sparrow hawk on our allotment field though, I have yet to see it making a kill. In some ways I feel sorry for the pigeons but, we certainly have too many and I am relieved to see the hawk in action. In the past few years the sparrow hawks in this area have been decimated, we think probably poisoned, presumably by people who think they shouldn’t be here. I have been stunned by this and this practice has allowed the pigeon population to grow out of control [probably not helped by my regular putting out bird feed – I have now reduced to peanuts which, I believe, really provides food for the little birds]

·         Remove netting from fruit cages and store carefully.

·         In greenhouses and poly-tunnels clear up plant debris to reduce diseases, remove weeds as necessary and clear plants when they have finished harvesting.

Preparation and Planning

·         As beds are cleared, dig them over – leaving in large sods is fine, especially on heavy clay ground – this will give the winter rain and frosts an opportunity to break down the clods into good planting soil in the spring. I have found that the difference between autumn dug and spring dug ground quite amazing, the autumn dug ground being so much more workable. However, as the autumn progresses into winter, there are fewer opportunities to dig and some areas are often left.

Sowing and Planting

·         I have always chosen to plant my onions, garlic and shallots in the autumn rather than the spring although, autumn planted onions are less likely to keep well through the following autumn/winter. I have given up growing onions because of the risk of white rot – several of my neighbours have had instances of white rot and once in the ground, alliums should not be planted there for the next 8 – 10 years. I do like my own garlic and my own leeks and as onions are cheap to buy, they have had to go.

·         I have my garlic cloves all ready to be planted and the bed well cultivated ready for them. I am impatient to start but, my daughter insists it is still too warm this season to plant them out. I will wait a few weeks until it is colder.

·         I have just set up my new strawberry bed. I had established enough runners plus a few extra in pots on my 1 year old bed. Although the very dry weather has lost me a few, I have had enough new plants, well-rooted to establish the new bed. Of course, there is still time to establish new plants from the strongest runners. If you have a neighbour with an established strawberry bed, why not ask them if you can pot up a few runners before they clear all the runner growth out. Any time until the spring is fine for planting the strawberry runners.

·         Towards the end of the month, I will chit [leave the seeds on wet newspaper to establish sprouts] my broad beans and sweet peas. Both of these can be planted out or sown in November. However, I find that if they are already established in pots, then hardened off, they will establish more easily. I have found that autumn sown broad beans will give me a crop from April onwards [young pods, early in the season are tasty and  full of vitamins and provide a fresh vegetable when little else is available – though do leave enough to grow on into the mature beans]. They autumn sown beans are usually less likely to be attacked by black fly.

Harvesting

·         Squashes and pumpkins – as soon as they have finished growing, set them out to allow the skins to harden. Take them home and store in a cool dry place. Check them regularly for deterioration during their storage time – I have had winter pumpkins store successfully until springtime.

·         Beans, especially runner beans are still harvesting well. Haricot beans for drying have probably finished. Make sure they are removed before the pods dry out and split or you will lose your beans.

·         Autumn raspberries are still producing satisfactory crops – pick them as often as possible as pigeons do like these to give variety to their menus!

·         Late hard fruits – apples, pears, are still maturing. Pick when the fruits come away from the stems without pulling.

·         Potatoes – maincrop potatoes should now be lifted. Late maincrops also. While they will sit in the ground for some time, they are likely to be attacked by slugs. If you are lifting the whole crop for storing [and this dry weather is perfect]. Leave the tubers on top of the ground for a couple of days to allow the earth to dry out and be rubbed off. Store only undamaged tubers in paper or hessian sacks in a cool, dry dark place – check them regularly to ensure there are no rotten potatoes which would affect the others. Any damaged but useable tubers should be used as soon as possible.

·         Some cauliflower varieties are now being harvested. The very dry season – which doesn’t suit brassicas will have affected the size of the curds but, I now find that my bed of cauliflowers are all coming ready at the same time. They are not huge but are delightful, none-the-less.

·         Kale is excellent now – varieties for autumn/winter harvesting and are a wonderful and healthy vegetable.

·         I find that my parsnips and leeks have been ready to eat for some time though I am reluctant to harvest them until I need them in winter.

·         In the poly-tunnel/ greenhouse, tomatoes, chillies, peppers are maturing daily and are providing still, wonderful productive crops. By the end of the month, it will be necessary to harvest them as green and ripen at home or use in appropriate preserves or hang them up to dry. Still good in this sunny, mild weather.