Visiting
Malmsbury and Lacock
Malmsbury has been on my list of places-I-must-visit
for some time since, I passed through it a couple of years ago by accident when
I missed my exit from the M4. It is a pity that it must wait until I have
guests staying with me to make the promised trip. It is well worth the effort.
It is situated in the Cotwolds in the north of the
county of Wiltshire. To find it, exit the M4 at Junction 17 and take the A429
for about 5 miles until you arrive in this very pretty town. I fear that to
visit this delightful site, a car is essential.
The Market Cross |
Parking is easy enough with 2 hours of parking
costing not much, in the centre of the town beside the Tourist Information and
the Athelstan Museum. The museum is actually quite interesting, free and not so
large as to become tiresome so, do look in. We were warned by the very helpful
and informative guide in the museum that although the parking is not expensive,
they are very punctilious about your timing so, do make sure you are back to
your car well before the time is up. However, it is a small town and, I guess,
there is no reason why you can’t nip back to the car and buy another two hours
of parking if you find somewhere very nice for lunch – and there are lots of
inviting places to choose from. For disabled people, most places of interest
are accessible.
Malmesbury is called The Queen of Hilltop Towns. It
is almost completely surrounded by the River Avon [well, one of rivers in
England called Avon – this one flows to the south coast, Dorset, I believe].
The first king of all of England, Athelstan,
[grandson of Alfred the Great], 10th Century – a bit before my time!
– ruled from Malmsbury, as his capital. It is said that he has been buried
somewhere in the grounds of the Abbey.
The wealth and development of the town was based on
the wool industry, being in the Cotswolds, there was always an abundance of
sheep and wool. Later a thriving industry in silk – fabric and garments was
developed [presumably from imported silk] and lace making was particularly
important. We were told that lace-making classes and practice are still taking
place.
Ancient carvings around the church interior |
The Apostles inside the South doorway |
The abbey was founded in AD 675 though, was built in
stone in 12th Century. At one time it has a spire to rival that of
Salisbury Cathedral. Much of the abbey has now disappeared although the
beautiful church and gardens which are left are superb and unbelievably
peaceful. It is still used as the parish church. I think, if it were my parish
church, I might be persuaded to attend on a regular basis. For a tourist
destination, it was not crammed with visitors. Perhaps the people of Malmsbury
don’t want to be inundated with lots of visitors but, I can’t help feeling that
a few more visitors would be beneficial to the businesses there.
A team of volunteers provided teas, coffees, cakes
[a veritable feast for the eyes] and light lunches. We opted to eat in the
church rather than in a restaurant in the town as all proceeds go towards
supporting the church. Do be patient, the food was excellent, fresh and
delicious but, it is important to remember that the people who provide the
service are very charming volunteers.
We drove from Malmsbury to a small town [also in
Wiltshire] which my daughter had insisted we should see. Never mind going to
Bath, she said, you must visit, Lacock. Lacock, south of the M4 is just off the
A350 – also exiting the M4 by junction 17. Pass Chippenham and head towards
Melksham but, look out for signs for the village.
This ancient village is mostly owned by the National
Trust. To visit the village is free although you do have to pay to park as, the
main part of the village is restricted - parking only for the people who live
there. [If you are a member of the National Trust, parking is free]
The village has been used as a set for many films
and TV series set in the 18th century and earlier. The large car
park, slightly outside the village, was pretty full and there were tourists
coaches in the park. If wheelchair bound, the journey from the car-park to the
village was not too far although, toilets were very narrow. While toilets for
disabled people may have been available, I didn’t see them.
Tithe Barn |
This little town is totally enchanting. It dates
from the 13th century and is named in the Doomsday Book. It was
given to the National Trust in 1944 which has ensured that the village and the
environment are not marred by present day ‘visual debris’ like power lines, TV
station dishes, road signs, etc. Unfortunately, for the photographer, the residents
are [of course] allowed to park in front of their houses and it can be
difficult to take good photographs with cars getting in the way – but I think I
managed a few.
Do have a look at the Tithe Barn – open to the
public, it allows a view of the construction of this interesting 14th
century public building, in excellent condition.
15th Century Inn |
There are lots of interesting looking places to eat
and drink, including a 15th Century inn – still in use and
interesting little craft shops supporting locally based craft work skills –
pottery, woollen goods, silk painting, etc. The town was established and developed
through the woollen industry.
At the top of the town is the Church of St Cyriac,
established in the late 11th Century. I found a very cute kitten
just outside and opted to not visit another ancient building. My guests
explored it but, were back within 5 minutes.
Lacock Abbey |
Lacock Abbey – I have to admit that we decided to
not spend the rather extravagant entrance fee for admission to the abbey
although, I do believe it is worth a visit. By that time, we were all tired and
looking forward to returning home, having a glass of wine or three, having
dinner and relaxing. However, it was decided, by all members of my group, that
it was an excellent day out and, I did manage to find and purchase a good
present for my grandson’s first birthday ….. I hope!