Pre Christmas Celebrations and Borough Market

Pre Christmas Celebrations

My elder daughter is spending Christmas this year with her partner’s family in Peru so we had a family celebration in London prior to their departure.

I travelled to London on Saturday morning and met her with my son in Borough Market – close to London Bridge Underground Station. If you are trying to get to the market, do watch for the signs in the station. I went to the wrong exit and wasted precious time when I could have been with my family – only 10 minutes or so – thank heavens for mobile phones!

We didn’t want the usual turkey with all the trimmings. We were looking for something a bit different, exotic and tasty. Well Borough Market is definitely the place. It will be open every day this week and up to 3.00pm on Christmas Eve. While the stallholders were clearly ‘doing a roaring trade’, it was obvious they were really having to work for their money. The produce is different, exotic, exciting, fresh and possibly a bit more expensive than Tesco or Sainsburys – though for similar produce, not too much more. The atmosphere was exhuberant, colourful, aromatic, noisy and very Christmassy.

We were going to a performance of Fascinating Aida at a small theatre in Charing Cross that evening. I find them hysterically funny though, it is probably a good idea if you look on their website to experience their genre of ‘funny’ before booking. They are not to everyone’s taste. We had planned to have a Chinese meal on our way to the theatre. However, we bought a brilliant range of cheeses, salamis, bread and salad vegetables at the Borough Market that we decided to eat at home – absolutely yummy.

Our decision on main course for Sunday lunch was pheasant. They are really not so expensive.We bought one each – there would be six of us for lunch so we bought six birds. They do look quite chunky but, really there is not much meat on each bird and what there is can be quite fiddly so, if you plan to serve pheasant, do allow one per person.

As they are small birds and don’t have a lot of fat on them it is necessary to ensure they don’t dry out during cooking. We opted to roast ours – 45 mins maximum. The stuffing, invented by my daughter was cooked outside the birds in stuffing balls which were added to the roasting pan 15 minutes before the end of cooking.

A mixture of duck fat, apricots, garlic, red onion, herbs( thyme and sage), breadcrumbs and seasoning was whizzed in a food processor, then formed into stuffing balls – and tasted divine.

Our gravy was also homemade – no Bisto for us! Finely chop a small onion and cook gently in a little good quality olive oil. Allow it to brown slightly to give some colour to the gravy. Add a Tblsp of brandy, a Tblsp of balsamic vinegar, a Tblsp of Worcestershire sauce (or similar – Soya sauce could work!), a tsp of chopped herbs, I used sage and rosemary so use with discretion. Add ½ litre stock and bring all to the boil, simmer gently to allow the flavours to blend and season to taste. Mix a dsp. of plain flour with a little water until smooth and add to the gravy. Stir it in quickly to prevent lumps forming and cook for 3 – 4 minutes. This needs to be sweetened a little – I added a couple of dsp of cranberry jelly but any similar conserve would work (I wouldn’t use strawberry, raspberry or blackcurrant, but a shred-less marmalade or apricot jam would work well). Lastly add the juice from the meat roasting tin to give it body and that proper meat flavour. I like my gravy to have the ‘bits’ in so, I serve it as it is but, if you prefer, put the gravy through a sieve to remove all solids. Enjoy!

Happy Christmas and a great New Year to everyone

Feliz Navidad y prospero Año Neuvo

Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année

Feliz Natal e próspero Ano Novo

Frohe Weinachten und ein erfolgreiches Neues Jahr

Nollaig Shona agus Athbhliain rathúla

Nadolig Llawen a Blwyddyn Newydd ffyniannus

Autumn and Winter Vegetables 3 - Root Vegetables

Winter vegetables – 3 – Root Vegetables

Most of the recipes in this blog are not my own but, are ones I have used successfully – do try them

Root vegetables  - the mainstay of winter vegetables which, of course, can span several and all seasons if one thinks of carrots and I’m not thinking of shop bought carrots.

Having said that, I have failed, totally, to provide all year round carrots for my household and in some years have failed to provide them for any season.

My ground, being heavy clay, is not the best type for carrots. It isn’t stony, which is a bonus but, nonetheless, I really need to till the ground to a fairly fine tilth to a good depth (10 -12 inches or 25-30cms) to give a suitable ground for carrots to grow in. I have had some success with certain varieties but, carrot root fly is a serious problem.

Carrot resistant varieties like Resistafly and Flyaway have been quite successful, as have some of the less fragrant types like the white or cream varieties – Créme de Lite and Blanc á colet vert. These grow satisfyingly large carrots which are tender, delicious and reasonably unattractive to carrot root fly, possibly because they don’t have a dramatic carroty aroma or flavour. They will sit quite well in the ground, even into late autumn though, I have found that the longer I leave them in the ground the worse the carrotfly damage has become. Not really surprising. I don’t have facilities for storing carrots successfully so, at the moment I have no option. As I have said in previous blogs, it doesn’t seem to matter that I sow them into raised beds or even in metre high ‘carrot boxes’, the carrot fly have still invaded my crops. Inter-planting with marigolds has made little or no difference to the carrot fly although, I find, that the aroma from those plants makes me nauseous! In 2012 I intend to use environmesh to keep the flies out. I will report back on that in the new season – onwards and upwards!
To add extra vegetables to yours and your children's menu so that they won't notice( well, not really) - add sliced carrot, parsnip, turnip to potatoes when you are cooking for mash - then mash up together with freshly crushed pepper and seasalt - a knob of butter is good! Try also adding broccoli or sliced cabbage to boiling potatoes 3 - 4 minutes from the end. Add pepper and sea salt and chop up well before serving - delicious!

Parsnips are, of course, a must and have a long harvesting season, once you can get them established. I have found that sowing them too early (in February as suggested on some seed packets) can lead to a very low or zero germination rate. They can be harvested from July – wonderful young tender roots until late spring, when you might find that the centres of the roots become a bit ‘woody’ and need to be cut out. But, aren’t they a wonderful, flavoursome and useful vegetable.

 Parsnips Recipes

Roasted parsnips – from ‘British and Irish Recipes’

The much maligned parsnip comes into its own when roasted in the oven. In this roast parsnip recipe the oven roasting brings out the sweetness of the parsnip and creates a slightly caramelized outside. Delicious.

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 55 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 lb/500g parsnips, peeled
• 2 tbsp goose fat, lard, dripping or vegetable oil
• Salt

Preparation:

• Preheat the oven to 425F/220C/Gas 7
• Cut the parsnips into even bite-sized chunks. Place them in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Once boiling reduce the heat an simmer for 5 mins.
• Heat the fat in a roasting tin until very hot but not burning. Carefully tip the parsnips into the hot fat. Using a tablespoon coat each piece with hot fat, this will prevent the parsnips from sticking.
• Return the roasting tin to the oven and roast for 20 mins. Turn all the parsnips over and roast for a further 20 mins or until the parsnips are golden brown.
• Serve immediately.

Parsnip Croquettes ( recipe from ‘Gourmet Britain’)  this is a wonderful for all roasted meat dishes. While this is not my recipe it is exactly as I would have made these croquettes when I was at college. Totally delicious!

·         900g/2 lbs Parsnips, peeled and with any hard core removed - cut into pieces

·         225g/8 oz Potato (floury-type), peeled and cut into pieces the same side as the parsnips

·         1 teaspoon (5ml) Salt

• 60g/2 oz Butter
• plenty of freshly-ground Black Pepper
• 1 scant teaspoon (3ml) freshly-grated Nutmeg
• Dried Breadcrumbs
• 2 Eggs, beaten with a little salt
• Oil for deep frying or oil and butter

Method:

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add the parsnip and potato pieces.
2. Simmer them for about 20 minutes or until they're tender.
3. Drain the vegetables and pass through a mouli-légume - or mash carefully to remove all lumps.
4. Mix in the butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
5. Allow to cool until they"re cool enough to handle then shape them into croquettes a little bigger than a cork.
6. Dip each in the egg wash, then roll them in the breadcrumbs until they are fully covered.
7. Deep-fry at 200°C/400°F until they're golden brown or shallow fry in a mixture of oil and butter.

Beetroots are one of my favourites, especially as a pickle or chutney. They are easy to germinate and establish and will sit a long time into the winter as a useable root. This year, I have learned to appreciate them as a vegetable (not pickled). They are best steamed and when cooked thoroughly, the skin just slides off, when the roots can be sliced and served straight or in a variety of ways. Next year, I hope to grow some of the more unusual varieties (as well as Boltardy which is a superb, reliable variety at a low cost)– just for interest!

Beetroot Soup ( or Borsch, Borscht  - even Barscht)

There are many recipes, some more complicated than others – do Google for recipes, but choose one that is simple and quick to make:- try this one:

1 lb/ ½ kiko beetroot ( 500 gms)                                      

1 onion – finely chopped

1 leek – finely chopped                                                        

1 stick celery – finely chopped

1 large carrot – finely chopped                                         

 1 large potato – diced or finely chopped

1 Tblsp olive oil                                                                    Salt and pepper to taste

2/3 cloves garlic – finely chopped                                    1 tsp caraway seeds

1Ltr vegetable stock ( or enough to cover the veg. in the pan)

Method

1.       Instead of chopping the vegetables, you might like to put them through a food processor.

2.       In a large pan, gently fry the onion, garlic, caraway seed and leek without colour in the olive oil.

3.       Add  the vegetables ( potato, beetroot, celery and carrot).

4.       Add the stock , season with salt and pepper and bring to the boil.

5.       Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally for approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the vegetables are tender.

6.       Pass the soup through a sieve or a liquidiser and check the seasoning. Add more if necessary.

7.       Reheat, and serve with dollops of cream or soured cream and chives on top.

Of the more unusual root vegetables, Salsify and Scorzonora are worth trying. They need to be cooked before removing the very tough skin which will then easily slough off. Their flavour is very delicate so don’t drown it with other much stronger flavours – try with a cheese sauce which is then gratinated – excellent!  

Salsify or Scorzonera  with cheese sauce

Scorzonera and salsify are very similar root vegetables. Both are considered a winter vegetable, best from November ‘til February. They are deep rooted 25 to 40 cm( 12 inches or more).The roots are quite delicate, easily broken and will discolour if the root is broken. They are often called the vegetable oyster as the flavour is delicate (though not at all fishy!) and it is important to not ‘drown’ the flavour with stronger ones.

The skin is quite tough and it is helpful t get rid of this beforehand – scald, steam or lightly boil the roots for a few minutes, then peel the tough skin from the roots. This should come off easily but , if not, use a peeler or sharp knife. Apart from cooking, you can stop the roots from discolouring by sprinkling with acid ( lemon juice or a mild vinegar – eg  tarragon, cider)

When the skins have been removed, cut the roots into lengths approx. 8 – 10 cm and place in a shallow oven-proof dish.

Make a cheese sauce:

30gm margarine ( 1oz)                                 ¼ litre milk ( ½ pint ) or veg stock

25 gm ( 1 oz) breadcrumbs- brown or white       Salt and pepper – to taste

30gm plain flour ( 1oz)

60gm ( 30gm ) cheese – cheddar is good though a more flavoursome one, like Stilton or other blue cheese is excellent – but don’t overpower the flavour of the vegetable.

Method 

1.      Melt the margarine in a saucepan and add the seasoning and flour. 

2.      Cook gently until the flour is cooked out – do NOT allow it to ‘catch’ or to brown.

3.      Add the liquid gently – little by little – stirring frequently until all the liquid has been added.

4.      Bring to the boil briefly then turn off the heat and add the cheese, allowing it to melt into the sauce.

5.      Pour the sauce over the salsify ( scorzonera) and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. If you wish, some extra grated cheese can be added to the breadcrumbs.

6.      Bake in a hot oven 180c for 15mins or grill until golden.

7.      Serve as a starter or side dish.   Yummy! 

Autumn and Winter Vegetables - 2 - Spuashes and Pumpkins

Winter Vegetables – 2 – Squashes and Pumpkins

I have come to this group of vegetables late in my life and late in my growing experience. My daughter and a neighbour on my allotment field have introduced me to the delights of them. My favourite vegetables are brassicas, closely followed by the allium family and potatoes. After that come the legumes (beans and peas). So, you can see that those fruiting vegetables come a long way down my hierarchy of favourites. Of course I grow tomatoes and peppers and chillies. I use them, dry them for use in the winter or freeze them for dishes in the winter.

I have given up growing aubergines. I did produce some excellent crops of these in my poly tunnel in warm years but, I found that I was not seduced by them and gave most away. I don’t dislike them but, when they are available there is so much more stuff I prefer.

Until last year, this same principal applied to squashes and pumpkins. It was a challenge to grow lots of different varieties but, somewhere along the line there have been some varieties I have learned to love , want to grow because I want to eat them and hope to store them for winter eating.

My favourites, by a long way are Butternut Squash – there are several different varieties of these and all of the ones I’ve grown have been excellent though, disappointingly, each plant produces – for me anyway, no more than 2 fruits. Okay, I can plan for that but, last year my germination rate for pumpkins and squashes was definitely not good – no more than 30%. And when you consider that in each packet of seed you get no more than 5 or 6 seeds, this is definitely not enough to see me through the winter.

Last year, I was totally impressed by pumpkin ‘Baby Bear’ which produces smallish fruits suitable for eating in one meal – I loved them but, this spring the germination rate was 0%. Instead I had ‘Hooligan’ which were similar in size but had much harder skins. They were similarly prolific – each plant producing 4 or 5 fruits. Their skin is unbelievably tough but, the flesh is excellent. I’ve also grown Justynka – not amazingly prolific but it does produce a range of sizes for medium to small and is quite delicious.

Already I have bought a range of different seeds for next year, including those which have not done so well this year. 2011 was a difficult year so I feel it is important to grow a range of vegetables which might be successful. Long range weather forecasters are suggesting that we might be into an extended period of unpredictable weather so, it is probably in our own interests to plan accordingly.

Anyway, do try some delicious and seasonal recipes for squashes and pumpkins:

Butternut Squash  Soup

1 Medium to large butternut squash ( well this depends on the average you have produced on your plot)

 2  Large potatoes ( the floury variety)

1 litre ( 2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock

1 medium Chilli pepper ( my choice is for Joe’s Long, I find them reliably medium hot even in cool years)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Finely chopped coriander

 2 – 3 cloves of garlic

150 ml ( ¼ pint double cream) if you wish you can add milk to deduce the fat content.

A dollop of crème fraishe to garnish.

Method

·         Wash and cut the squash in half lengthways. Remove the seeds.

·         Peel the garlic cloves and put them in the seed spaces of the squashes to raost.

·         Roast the squash – oven 180ºC  no 5 gas for 25 to 30 mins.

·         In the meantime, wash, peel and cut the potatoes into cubes.

·         Put the potatoes into a large saucepan with the stock, chilli and seasoning and bring to the boil. Simmer gently.

·         When the squash is cooked and soft, scoop it (with the roasted garlic), into the saucepan. Bring to the boil then simmer gently for 10 minutes or so to blend the flavours.

·         Put through a blender or blitz with a hand blender until smooth. If you don’t have electronic equipment, just mash the ingredients well.

·         Correct the seasoning to taste and serve.

·         Garnish with chopped coriander and a dollop of crème fraishe

·         Serve with hot crusty brown or white bread.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Roasted Potatoes – this recipe came from Philip Drew, but I can’t find his original so this is my take on his idea

1 – 2 medium onions - red onions for preference – peeled and cut into chunks

½ kilo suitable roasting potatoes – washed, peeled and cut into large chunks

1 medium butternut squash – sliced, peeled and deseeded then cut into chunks

1 garlic bulb – separate the cloves and skin them

A good dollop of top quality olive oil

A good sprinkle of sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Some sprigs of rosemary

Method

·         Prepare the vegetables.

·         Heat the oil in a roasting pan until hot - 200ºC, No 6 gas

·         Toss the prepared squash, onions and potatoes in the hot oil.

·         Add the seasoning, herbs and garlic and return to the oven.

·         Cook for a further 30-40 minutes until the vegetables are golden brown and crunchy ( this will depend on the size you have cut them.

·         Serve immediately with any roast meat or with a nut roast.

Note – an excellent choice for Christmas dinner

Squash and  Chicken Breast Parcels

This is a low fat main dish par excellence, but very, very tasty and satisfying.

Per person you will need:

1 chicken breast – without skin – left whole

3 slices of butternut squash (1cm thick - ½inch) skinned and sliced – OR - use the flesh from a range of squashes or pumpkins instead with excellent results

1 piece of fruit – a pear, apple or peach / nectarine – washed and sliced – leave the skin on.

3 – 4 medium mushrooms – wiped and sliced

3 – 4 mini tomatoes or one regular sliced

Herbs – be generous (my choice is for a mixture of lemon thyme, tarragon and marjoram with parsley, but do use you own favourites)

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

A knob of butter – if you must!

Method

·         You will need a sheet of tinfoil or greaseproof paper for each portion. Spread it out and add the prepared ingredients – it really doesn’t matter what order you add them to the pile.

·         Season well and add your chosen herbs.

·         Close the parcel and put in an oven proof dish.

·         Bake in a preheated oven 180ºC,  No 5 gas for about an hour.

·         Remove from the ‘parcel’ onto the plate and serve with mashed or baked potatoes and green vegetables.

Note  This makes an excellent supper party dish wrapped in greaseproof paper where each guest has their own parcel.

·         The flavouring ingredients can be changed – spices and chillies, peppers, curry spices, a different range of fruit, grated lemon or orange rind, etc. You can put sliced or tiny potatoes into the parcel. They will take longer to cook and will absorb the juices from the ingredients making a drier dish but, the upside is that the whole dish is cooked together.

Using and cooking Winter Vegetables - Leeks 1

Using Winter Vegetables – 1

Well, I plan all year for what I will need to eat in the winter. The last 2 winters have let me down somewhat as, being so harsh and cold, my brassicas stopped growing and other vegetables like parsnips and leeks were so firmly frozen into the ground that they were not available. The shame of it! However, my heart went out to the wild life, especially the birds which were struggling, not only for food but, also for water. We aren’t there yet this year but, last year I would take some bottled water to put in a ‘dish’ for them each time I went to my plot – only to be frozen solid each time I went back. I can’t feed or water birds at home as I have 4 cats!

This year has been peculiar as I was not able to plant out my brassica seedlings when I should have – the ground was solid following an extremely dry late spring. Those brassicas I have planted have produced unseasonal results. My Brussels Sprouts have been spectacularly disappointing. Although the plants have grown healthily the ‘sprouts' have been open or very small. I was so relieved to hear in James Martin’s  Saturday Kitchen, this weekend that Brussels Sprouts tops can be used as a vegetable – cut up and cooked like cabbage – horray! My bed of Brussels will not go to waste.

As I was so afraid of not having enough leeks – again, because of the peculiar late spring weather(I think) my leek seeds more or less failed and I was grateful for the young plants my daughter gave me. I now have two well established beds of leeks, all ready for use between now and springtime. I love leeks as a vegetable – sweated in butter with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper but, I have lots and need to have a variety of winter vegetables to eat.

Do try some of these leek recipes: -

Leek and Potato Soup

3 good-sized leeks – trimmed, washed and sliced( a personal taste – I like some of the green part in as well

About ½ kilo (1lb) potatoes – use fairly floury potatoes,(I’am using Sarpo Mira or Sarpo Axona)

2 – 3 good sized garlic cloves – peeled and chopped

1 litre ( 2pints) vegetable or chicken stock

A good tablespoon of butter

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Chopped parsley or coriander

A few spoonfuls of single cream

Method

·         Melt the butter in a large pan and sweat the leeks and garlic, until soft – don’t allow them to brown.

·         Wash and peel the potatoes then cut into smallish chunks.

·         Add the potatoes and seasoning to the pan and stir in with the leeks.

·         Add the stock and seasoning and bring the soup to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until all the vegetables are well cooked.

·         Put the soup through a blender or ‘mash’ well to ensure all the ingredients are broken down. Correct the seasoning to your taste.

·         If you wish you can add the cream and stir in well OR pour a little cream to each bowl as a decoration to each dish before serving. Garnish with chopped parsley or coriander. Enjoy!

·         This soup freezes well but is best fresh

Leek and Stilton Flan

For the pastry                                                                      For the filling

175 gms (6 oz) plain flour                                           3 medium leeks(trimmed, washed, and sliced)

75 gms (3 oz) butter                                                    3 good-sized cloves of garlic – finely chopped

6 tsp. cold water (approx)                                           3 medium eggs

Pinch salt                                                                     sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

                                                                                    2 Tablespoons milk

                                                                                    110 gms (4oz) blue stilton cheese

                                                                                    40gms (1½oz) butter

Method

·         Prepare the pastry – sieve the flour and salt the work the butter into the flour until the texture is like fine breadcrumbs.

·         Add enough cold water to ensure the mixture binds ( approx.1 tsp for every oz of flour but, a little more may be needed – don’t add too much water or your pastry will be hard and tough)

·         Roll out the pastry fairly thinly, to line a flan dish or suitable plate (grease or oil well before putting the pastry into it). Trim. ( If you have added too much water the pastry will shrink when cooked).

·         Bake the pastry case ‘blind’ – without filling – in a fairly hot oven – Gas 6 or 200°C for 15 - 20 minutes until the pastry is golden.

·         In the meantime, ‘sweat’ the leeks and garlic in the butter until soft – don’t allow them to brown.

·         Beat the eggs, seasoning and milk together in a bowl and grate the cheese.

·         When the pastry is cooked, remove it from the oven and fill the flan with the cooked leeks. Add the egg mixture and top with the grated cheese.

·         Return to the oven and cook for 15 minutes. Lower the heat and continue to cook until the filling has set and the topping cheese is golden.

·         Serve with a mixed salad and onion marmalade.

Note

This dish can be served hot or cold, is good for a main meal or in small slices as a starter, or for a picnic.

Stilton can be replaced by cheddar, gruyere or any other suitable ‘melting’ cheese.

Onion Marmalade

2 large onions – preferably red onions but, any suitable onions will be fine

1 tsp – olive oil

150 mls ( ¼ pt) vinegar – [I use malt vinegar, the flavours are so strong that finer flavours would be wasted]

3 Tbsp cold water

50gms (2 oz) sugar

Pinch salt

¼ tsp freshly cracked black pepper

½ tsp caraway seeds.

Method

·         Peel the onions, cut in half and finely slice.

·         Put the olive oil into a pan with the onions and sweat very gently until the onions are soft.

·         Add the vinegar, seasoning, caraway seeds water to the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the temperature.

·         Add the sugar and stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved.

·         Bring to the boil and cook until the mixture has thickened to the desired consistency – remember it will thicken further when cool.

You can add further spices like chillies, if you wish, to enhance the flavour.

Leek and Mushroom Gratin

3 – 4 good-sized leeks

100g (4oz) medium sized mushrooms – white or chestnut

50g  (2oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

275 ml (½ pint) milk

50g (2oz) grated cheddar cheese

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Method

·         Trim and wash the leeks and cut into thin..ish slices.

·         Put in a saucepan with the butter and sweat gently until the leeks are starting to soften – don’t allow them to brown or they will be bitter.

·         Wipe, trim and slice the mushrooms and add them to the leeks.

·         Continue to cook very gently until the leeks and mushrooms are soft – a few minutes.

·         Add the flour and mix in well. Allow the flour to cook before adding the milk – don’t let it  brown.

·         Gradually add the milk and bring to the boil. Add the seasoning to taste.

·         Pour the mixture into an ovenproof dish and sprinkle the cheese on top.

·         Put under the grill and cook until the top is golden brown.

·         Serve as a supper dish with fresh crusty brown bread or as an accompaniment to a main meal.