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Thursday 22 December 2011

Pre Christmas Celebrations and Borough Market


Pre Christmas Celebrations

My elder daughter is spending Christmas this year with her partner’s family in Peru so we had a family celebration in London prior to their departure.
I travelled to London on Saturday morning and met her with my son in Borough Market – close to London Bridge Underground Station. If you are trying to get to the market, do watch for the signs in the station. I went to the wrong exit and wasted precious time when I could have been with my family – only 10 minutes or so – thank heavens for mobile phones!
We didn’t want the usual turkey with all the trimmings. We were looking for something a bit different, exotic and tasty. Well Borough Market is definitely the place. It will be open every day this week and up to 3.00pm on Christmas Eve. While the stallholders were clearly ‘doing a roaring trade’, it was obvious they were really having to work for their money. The produce is different, exotic, exciting, fresh and possibly a bit more expensive than Tesco or Sainsburys – though for similar produce, not too much more. The atmosphere was exhuberant, colourful, aromatic, noisy and very Christmassy.
We were going to a performance of Fascinating Aida at a small theatre in Charing Cross that evening. I find them hysterically funny though, it is probably a good idea if you look on their website to experience their genre of ‘funny’ before booking. They are not to everyone’s taste. We had planned to have a Chinese meal on our way to the theatre. However, we bought a brilliant range of cheeses, salamis, bread and salad vegetables at the Borough Market that we decided to eat at home – absolutely yummy.
Our decision on main course for Sunday lunch was pheasant. They are really not so expensive.We bought one each – there would be six of us for lunch so we bought six birds. They do look quite chunky but, really there is not much meat on each bird and what there is can be quite fiddly so, if you plan to serve pheasant, do allow one per person.
As they are small birds and don’t have a lot of fat on them it is necessary to ensure they don’t dry out during cooking. We opted to roast ours – 45 mins maximum. The stuffing, invented by my daughter was cooked outside the birds in stuffing balls which were added to the roasting pan 15 minutes before the end of cooking.
A mixture of duck fat, apricots, garlic, red onion, herbs( thyme and sage), breadcrumbs and seasoning was whizzed in a food processor, then formed into stuffing balls – and tasted divine.
Our gravy was also homemade – no Bisto for us! Finely chop a small onion and cook gently in a little good quality olive oil. Allow it to brown slightly to give some colour to the gravy. Add a Tblsp of brandy, a Tblsp of balsamic vinegar, a Tblsp of Worcestershire sauce (or similar – Soya sauce could work!), a tsp of chopped herbs, I used sage and rosemary so use with discretion. Add ½ litre stock and bring all to the boil, simmer gently to allow the flavours to blend and season to taste. Mix a dsp. of plain flour with a little water until smooth and add to the gravy. Stir it in quickly to prevent lumps forming and cook for 3 – 4 minutes. This needs to be sweetened a little – I added a couple of dsp of cranberry jelly but any similar conserve would work (I wouldn’t use strawberry, raspberry or blackcurrant, but a shred-less marmalade or apricot jam would work well). Lastly add the juice from the meat roasting tin to give it body and that proper meat flavour. I like my gravy to have the ‘bits’ in so, I serve it as it is but, if you prefer, put the gravy through a sieve to remove all solids. Enjoy!
Happy Christmas and a great New Year to everyone
Feliz Navidad y prospero Año Neuvo
Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année
Feliz Natal e próspero Ano Novo
Frohe Weinachten und ein erfolgreiches Neues Jahr
Nollaig Shona agus Athbhliain rathúla
Nadolig Llawen a Blwyddyn Newydd ffyniannus

Friday 9 December 2011

Autumn and Winter Vegetables 3 - Root Vegetables



Winter vegetables – 3 – Root Vegetables
Most of the recipes in this blog are not my own but, are ones I have used successfully – do try them
Root vegetables  - the mainstay of winter vegetables which, of course, can span several and all seasons if one thinks of carrots and I’m not thinking of shop bought carrots.
Having said that, I have failed, totally, to provide all year round carrots for my household and in some years have failed to provide them for any season.
My ground, being heavy clay, is not the best type for carrots. It isn’t stony, which is a bonus but, nonetheless, I really need to till the ground to a fairly fine tilth to a good depth (10 -12 inches or 25-30cms) to give a suitable ground for carrots to grow in. I have had some success with certain varieties but, carrot root fly is a serious problem.
Carrot resistant varieties like Resistafly and Flyaway have been quite successful, as have some of the less fragrant types like the white or cream varieties – Créme de Lite and Blanc á colet vert. These grow satisfyingly large carrots which are tender, delicious and reasonably unattractive to carrot root fly, possibly because they don’t have a dramatic carroty aroma or flavour. They will sit quite well in the ground, even into late autumn though, I have found that the longer I leave them in the ground the worse the carrotfly damage has become. Not really surprising. I don’t have facilities for storing carrots successfully so, at the moment I have no option. As I have said in previous blogs, it doesn’t seem to matter that I sow them into raised beds or even in metre high ‘carrot boxes’, the carrot fly have still invaded my crops. Inter-planting with marigolds has made little or no difference to the carrot fly although, I find, that the aroma from those plants makes me nauseous! In 2012 I intend to use environmesh to keep the flies out. I will report back on that in the new season – onwards and upwards!
To add extra vegetables to yours and your children's menu so that they won't notice( well, not really) - add sliced carrot, parsnip, turnip to potatoes when you are cooking for mash - then mash up together with freshly crushed pepper and seasalt - a knob of butter is good! Try also adding broccoli or sliced cabbage to boiling potatoes 3 - 4 minutes from the end. Add pepper and sea salt and chop up well before serving - delicious!
Parsnips are, of course, a must and have a long harvesting season, once you can get them established. I have found that sowing them too early (in February as suggested on some seed packets) can lead to a very low or zero germination rate. They can be harvested from July – wonderful young tender roots until late spring, when you might find that the centres of the roots become a bit ‘woody’ and need to be cut out. But, aren’t they a wonderful, flavoursome and useful vegetable.
 Parsnips Recipes
Roasted parsnips – from ‘British and Irish Recipes’
The much maligned parsnip comes into its own when roasted in the oven. In this roast parsnip recipe the oven roasting brings out the sweetness of the parsnip and creates a slightly caramelized outside. Delicious.
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 55 minutes
Ingredients:
  • 1 lb/500g parsnips, peeled
  • 2 tbsp goose fat, lard, dripping or vegetable oil
  • Salt
Preparation:
  • Preheat the oven to 425F/220C/Gas 7
  • Cut the parsnips into even bite-sized chunks. Place them in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Once boiling reduce the heat an simmer for 5 mins.
  • Heat the fat in a roasting tin until very hot but not burning. Carefully tip the parsnips into the hot fat. Using a tablespoon coat each piece with hot fat, this will prevent the parsnips from sticking.
  • Return the roasting tin to the oven and roast for 20 mins. Turn all the parsnips over and roast for a further 20 mins or until the parsnips are golden brown.
  • Serve immediately.
Parsnip Croquettes ( recipe from ‘Gourmet Britain’)  this is a wonderful for all roasted meat dishes. While this is not my recipe it is exactly as I would have made these croquettes when I was at college. Totally delicious!
·         900g/2 lbs Parsnips, peeled and with any hard core removed - cut into pieces
·         225g/8 oz Potato (floury-type), peeled and cut into pieces the same side as the parsnips
·         1 teaspoon (5ml) Salt
  • 60g/2 oz Butter
  • plenty of freshly-ground Black Pepper
  • 1 scant teaspoon (3ml) freshly-grated Nutmeg
  • Dried Breadcrumbs
  • 2 Eggs, beaten with a little salt
  • Oil for deep frying or oil and butter
Method:
  1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add the parsnip and potato pieces.
  2. Simmer them for about 20 minutes or until they're tender.
  3. Drain the vegetables and pass through a mouli-légume - or mash carefully to remove all lumps.
  4. Mix in the butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
  5. Allow to cool until they"re cool enough to handle then shape them into croquettes a little bigger than a cork.
  6. Dip each in the egg wash, then roll them in the breadcrumbs until they are fully covered.
  7. Deep-fry at 200°C/400°F until they're golden brown or shallow fry in a mixture of oil and butter.

Beetroots are one of my favourites, especially as a pickle or chutney. They are easy to germinate and establish and will sit a long time into the winter as a useable root. This year, I have learned to appreciate them as a vegetable (not pickled). They are best steamed and when cooked thoroughly, the skin just slides off, when the roots can be sliced and served straight or in a variety of ways. Next year, I hope to grow some of the more unusual varieties (as well as Boltardy which is a superb, reliable variety at a low cost)– just for interest!
Beetroot Soup ( or Borsch, Borscht  - even Barscht)
There are many recipes, some more complicated than others – do Google for recipes, but choose one that is simple and quick to make:- try this one:
1 lb/ ½ kiko beetroot ( 500 gms)                                      
1 onion – finely chopped
1 leek – finely chopped                                                        
1 stick celery – finely chopped
1 large carrot – finely chopped                                         
 1 large potato – diced or finely chopped
1 Tblsp olive oil                                                                    Salt and pepper to taste
2/3 cloves garlic – finely chopped                                    1 tsp caraway seeds
1Ltr vegetable stock ( or enough to cover the veg. in the pan)
Method
1.       Instead of chopping the vegetables, you might like to put them through a food processor.
2.       In a large pan, gently fry the onion, garlic, caraway seed and leek without colour in the olive oil.
3.       Add  the vegetables ( potato, beetroot, celery and carrot).
4.       Add the stock , season with salt and pepper and bring to the boil.
5.       Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally for approx. 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the vegetables are tender.
6.       Pass the soup through a sieve or a liquidiser and check the seasoning. Add more if necessary.
7.       Reheat, and serve with dollops of cream or soured cream and chives on top.

Of the more unusual root vegetables, Salsify and Scorzonora are worth trying. They need to be cooked before removing the very tough skin which will then easily slough off. Their flavour is very delicate so don’t drown it with other much stronger flavours – try with a cheese sauce which is then gratinated – excellent!  
Salsify or Scorzonera  with cheese sauce
Scorzonera and salsify are very similar root vegetables. Both are considered a winter vegetable, best from November ‘til February. They are deep rooted 25 to 40 cm( 12 inches or more).The roots are quite delicate, easily broken and will discolour if the root is broken. They are often called the vegetable oyster as the flavour is delicate (though not at all fishy!) and it is important to not ‘drown’ the flavour with stronger ones.
The skin is quite tough and it is helpful t get rid of this beforehand – scald, steam or lightly boil the roots for a few minutes, then peel the tough skin from the roots. This should come off easily but , if not, use a peeler or sharp knife. Apart from cooking, you can stop the roots from discolouring by sprinkling with acid ( lemon juice or a mild vinegar – eg  tarragon, cider)
When the skins have been removed, cut the roots into lengths approx. 8 – 10 cm and place in a shallow oven-proof dish.
Make a cheese sauce:
30gm margarine ( 1oz)                                 ¼ litre milk ( ½ pint ) or veg stock
25 gm ( 1 oz) breadcrumbs- brown or white       Salt and pepper – to taste
30gm plain flour ( 1oz)
60gm ( 30gm ) cheese – cheddar is good though a more flavoursome one, like Stilton or other blue cheese is excellent – but don’t overpower the flavour of the vegetable.
Method 
1.      Melt the margarine in a saucepan and add the seasoning and flour. 
2.      Cook gently until the flour is cooked out – do NOT allow it to ‘catch’ or to brown.
3.      Add the liquid gently – little by little – stirring frequently until all the liquid has been added.
4.      Bring to the boil briefly then turn off the heat and add the cheese, allowing it to melt into the sauce.
5.      Pour the sauce over the salsify ( scorzonera) and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. If you wish, some extra grated cheese can be added to the breadcrumbs.
6.      Bake in a hot oven 180c for 15mins or grill until golden.
7.      Serve as a starter or side dish.   Yummy!